348 fuel pump rebuild

Well boys, it's that time again. Brotherhood mechanic class, Stooge style.

Todays leason: How to tear apart a 348 fuel pump.
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First we need to remove the nuts for the brackets on both sides of the pump. And then remove the brackets holding down the pump cup.
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Step 2

Then we remove the ground wire from the pump to the housing.
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Step 3

After we have the fuel pump ground remove, we need to remove the ground wire that runs from one side of the housing to the other.
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Step 4

Next wire in line is the positive wire for the fuel pump.
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Now that the wires out of the way we can remove the nut and retaining bracket on the other side of the pump.
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Using your finger pop the return line out of the plastic clip on the cup.
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Now you will need to squeeze the fasteners on the sides with a pair of pliers, to get the plastic to spread so that the clip can get over the groove on the back of the nipple, and then get them off. The metal nipples have 2 rubber o-rings on them so a good idea is to wiggle the end to get the rubber to break loose. Keep in mind some of these things have been attached for 19+ years. It is a bit of a pain to get the fasters off but they will come off. I used a standard screw driver to help keep pressure under the fastener while pulling up on it. Be careful not to scratch the nipples because they need to make a good seal when you put it back together.
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Now that the wires and tubes are disconnected the pump can be removed from the bottom housing.

What is all that crap on the bottom???
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Now remove the positive and negative wire from the pump itself.
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The clamp holding a rubber sleeve to the fuel pump needs to be removed.

You can see that the rubber is pretty dried up in these pictures. By the way the number stamped on the rubber sleeve is 82403966.
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The return line attached to the bottom of the cup needs to be popped out. I used a standard/flat screw driver to pop it out of the hole.
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There are 3 holes on the bottom of the cup. The holes line up with screws that are on the bottom of the pump screens inside the cup.

So to get the pump out you need to put a philips screw driver trough the hole and fit it into the slot in the screw inside.

Then balance the cup using both hands.

Now while holding the sides of the cup,
push the cup down, so that the screw driver pops the pump out of the cup.

Again make sure that you have the screw drive inserted in the slot on the philips screw inside the cup. You don't want to have the screw driver slip and rip the screen.
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Now you can remove the pump from the cup.

Would you look at all that crap. It's all deteriorated rubber from the sleeve on the pump. I could break bits off with my fingers it was dried up so bad.
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In these pictures you can see how the pump is held inside the cup. There are little clips along the bottom of the cup. The ridge on the bottom of the pump screen gets clipped down to the bottom. That is why you need the screw driver placed inside the 3 holes on the bottom to help pop the pump out.
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Next you will be removing the pump screen housing.

You can now see the philips screws on the bottom of the screen housing that you had the screw driver inserted in when you popped the pump out of the cup.

Remove the 6 screws.

Then take the bottom of the screen off the top housing ring.
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Here is the bottom of the pump, and the Bosch fuel pump number 0 580 254 011.
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The last step I could have included in step 14, but oh well. It's nothing more than removing the top ring of the screen housing from the pump. I didn't remove the feed tube from the top of the pump because I couldn't get an open end wrench on the nut, so I just left it alone. So when I removed the top ring I just slid it off the pump and over the tube.
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Here is the dried up rubber sleeve. This thing is THRASHED! It's a good thing that Ferrari had the common sense, FOR ONCE , to put a screen on the bottom of the pump. If any of those rubber bits I dumped out earlier had gotten sucked up into the pump it would have been ruined. What is funny is that the rubber sleeve (Ferrari parts books calls it a gasket) helps to seal up the top of the screen housing, so go figure.

So on your next engine out service you may want to have your fuel pumps checked to make sure the rubbers sleeves aren't showing signs of deterioration.
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Here is an exploded view of the fuel pump.
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Well kids, that is how to take apart a 348 fuel pump,

Stooge style!!!


Happy wrenching.

 

Now don't forget to add this to the primer page SHEMP! You didn't add the tank removal. So get both of these on there.