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Welcome...you have had the Cam Variator Recall performed??

Check your records......

Others will chime in.....

 

Lost a bank maybe - could try battery off reset for starters in case it s a tiny electrical glitch

 

There was no cam variator recall on a 2005 360.

 

Thanks Jim, he is okay on that issue, then??

I could not recall the exact date on the upgraded parts, thanks a LOT!
But yea, by the time the Stradale was out (2004) the variator problem was history.
It was in the early cars..

Whew!

Fingers crossed for electrical gremlins...

 

Did you jump start the car, before going to a new battery?

 

No, as long as it is the right physical size (and Cold Cranking Amps) that should be fine.

Good, no jump starting that has been known to be hard on the system.....

I have much older cars, mine just catch fire...but I'm trying to help.
Bright side: you are not on fire.

 

We do have a specific 360 Section down the page here, you might scroll down and repost your issues, but this is actually a good spot to discuss it.

You found the right place, there's tons of smart people here.
And then, there's me....

 

Your description sounds like you were slipping clutch pretty bad. Was there a funny burnt smell permeating through the car?

What is a Bank? A bank referred to here would be a row of cylinders on one side of the engine. You see Ferrari has ignition systems that are independent for each half of the engine. So when that question was asked they are looking for a problem that would effect one "bank" and that usually will be in the ignition system for that "bank".

All in all more information is needed to even guess as to what happenend. How about frequency (how often does this happen) duration (how long did it last) etc. More clues. Any problems while changing the battery? Any error codes thrown if you have a system that displays them? If not any idiot lights? (forgive me I don't have a 360). Did you have to get the revs up but the car didn't go as fast as you would expect for the rpms shown on the Tach? Was your emergency brake on? does your car roll freely in neutral or is there brake drag? Stuff like that.

 

Hi SB, sorry to hear about your problems. Don't panic, they're generally reliable but a little quirky and once you get to know your car and understand some of the issues that can effect it you'll be able to sort out most issues with a bit of help from the community.

Unfortunately we haven't got a lot to work with just yet. How has the car been since?

Assuming there's nothing mechanically wrong with your car (bad banging noises from engine) I'd be inclined to suggest that you might try a "reboot". Use the battery cut-off switch in the front hood and leave it off overnight. The following day turn it back on. Turn off all accessories in the car, radio, a/c, lights etc. Turn key to position II, wait 15 seconds (while the throttle valves go through an open/close procedure) and then start the car and allow it to idle for 15 minutes without touching the throttle or turning on any electrical accessories. This may cause any little gremlins to sort themselves out.

 

Did the car rev normally if it wasn't in gear (i.e. if you put it in neutral and depressed the gas pedal did it rev up normal)?

If yes, then the clutch suggestion makes sense, if not I would vote for something fuel delivery related or electronic as already mentioned. Battery reset is a great first step. Have you turned the car on sense?

 

+1 on the clutch. I'll bet it's slipping.

 

The slow down light is the valuable additional information needed to assist you. There is a temperature probe in the exhaust system which is designed to measure the exhaust temperature and if the probe thinks the exhaust is getting too hot it will shut off the fuel to the bank of cylinders which has the problem.

More often than not this is a false message and there is nothing wrong with the exhaust temperature. The probe itself, the wires from the probe and the little ECU that interprets the signal from the probe are all potential failure points.

If you are DIY handy you can use the forum to try and diagnose and repair the system yourself. (Search for SDECU in Tech Q&A) If not so handy your mechanic or dealer should be able to help you.

The joys of Ferrari ownership!

p.s. If you want to know if you really have an over temp exhaust just drive the car at night, wait until the slow down message appears and pull over and open your engine bay. If one or other of your Cats is glowing red hot then you actually do have a problem . More likely neither will be glowing and you simply have a false alarm.

 

I would scan for codes if the "check engine" light was illuminated....they should be stored, even if now off. If the "slow down" light was illuminated, it is possible he may have a problem with a catalyst ECU or thermoprobe....but I am reaching here...just a quick guess, (so tread carefully with my comments). But if the "slow down" light was illuminated, it may have shut down a bank...so he was running on 4 cylinders...which would explain the power loss. I would not drive the car further until properly diagnosed.

 

My guess is two fold:
A) if you take the car to the Ferrari qualified mechanic it probably won't cost that much
B) If you try to debug it further yourself, it will probably cost more when you do take it in.

And:
C) 7 year old car with 3,500 miles on it is nothing less than shameful.