It's STOOGE TIME! This thread it to show you guys how I did the engine out major on my 348, using two floor jacks to get the engine out of the car. The last time I did the major on my car was 10 years ago as of this post. But the belt actually had about 9 & 1/2 years on it. I pushed the belt change to the very limit just because I wanted to see how long I could go before it HAD to be changed. I am NOT recommending people do this, I just did it for MY OWN curiosity. So I waited until I HAD to be changed, and it indeed did. Two things happened. 1) The bearings for the cam belt where going bad. I could here them squeal at start up. 2) The water pump failed. This is going to be a long thread, so go get yourself a cold one, and enjoy the show.
First things first. For better access I like to remove the engine lid. Unscrew and remove the bolts holding it to the hinges, then take the engine lid off and set it aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now for the air box removal. I take the hoses feeding from the quarter windows off first. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Loosen the clamp holding the two secondary air injection hoses, to the bottom front corners of the air box, and disconnect them. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now I unscrew the four nuts holding the air box to the subframe, and remove the air box. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unscrew the connector just to the side of the charcoal canister, and near the left shock tower (looking in from the back). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now disconnect the two fuel vapor purge lines from the intake. There is one attached to each plenum. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now it was time to get the car in the air. I positioned the floor jacks under the car right around where the door closes, on both sides. Looking under the car, I had lift point of the floor jack right at the end of the lip on the bottom. You'll see what I'm talking about when you have a look under there. Yes the bottom of my car is tweaked, as I have lifted it up many, many, many times from this area. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Having a helper on the other side of the car, we pumped both floor jacks at the same time to lift the rear of the car evenly. Then we supported it with jack stands. The metal of the subframe isn't all that strong, so be sure to place the jack stands where the extra support bracing is. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I didn't take pictures of my lifting the front of the car, but here is where I put the jacks stands under the front of the car once I got it in the air. I lift both the front and back of the car so I have plenty of room to move around when disconnecting the shift linkage. Image Unavailable, Please Login
As for removing the shift linkage I will refer you to this link http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/193188-348-gas-tank-removal.html to save me some time, and because I already posted up how to do it. It's about half way down the first page of that link, starting at post #11.
Here is a pic I do have of me removing the gas tank shield from the bottom of the car. I do this so that the cables have more room to move out of the way when the engine is coming out. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now that the car is in the air, and safely secured with jack stands, I removed the rear wheels. Word of caution. DO NOT leave the floor jacks holding up the car. If one of the pumps fails it can collapse and CRUSH you. So BE SURE to use jack stands to support the car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now remove the fender liner/splash guard, and set it aside. I mocked this part up because I have ben driving my 348 for some time now without the liners in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the fender liner out of the way I now have access to the drain plug on the radiator. Using a big flat screw driver, the bigger the better, I unscrew the plug and let the coolant drain into a pan. I use the biggest screw driver I have, that can fit in the slot, so I don't strip the plug. It's made out of plastic, and I don't feel like buying a new one if I don't have to. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
To help I drain faster I remove the expansion tank/radiator cap and set it aside. This creates a vent and the coolant will flow out better. Image Unavailable, Please Login
With that done, I moved to the little half radiator on the other side of the car, just above the oil cooler, and opened the drain plug for it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The I loosened the clamp holding the drain hose to the expansion tank. The hose runs from the expansion tank to the cross over piping under the plenum. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil tank, and let the oil drain out into a pan. Image Unavailable, Please Login
To remove the oil cooler line from the oil tank you will need a VERY BIG crescent wrench, and a sledge hammer to get the nut started. Unscrew the nut, and drain the line into the oil pan. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then head back to the front of the engine bay and disconnect the oil line from the oil cooler. Image Unavailable, Please Login
After the oil lines drained for a while I covered them with a couple of lunch baggies, and some rubber bands, to try and help them from leaking all over the place. I did this on the oil line at the reservoir tank, and at the oil cooler. Image Unavailable, Please Login