Garage Floor Coating/Paint? | FerrariChat

Garage Floor Coating/Paint?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by surfwolf, Apr 9, 2014.

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  1. surfwolf

    surfwolf Formula 3
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    Oct 14, 2012
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    Michael Wolfe
    My 348 Spider is getting the engine out major & I will get her back in 48 hours. I just swept/vac'd/pressure washed the garage & want to get the floor done before my car returns.
    What is the best way to go? Epoxy coating? Special paint/coating? Probably go with bright white if possible? Ideas?
     
  2. Thorpiticus

    Thorpiticus Karting

    Feb 23, 2006
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    I'm about to do the same (floor, not engine out major). I've got my eye on the Rustoleum Epoxy Shield. Home Depot has it at $99 for a two car garage. I welcome any other opinions here.
     
  3. waymar

    waymar Formula 3

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    I used the rustoleum epoxy shield about 3yrs ago. I have had very good results with it. Washes up clean time after time.
     
  4. mikeyr

    mikeyr Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2004
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    not sure you can do it in 48 hours, epoxy takes lots of prep work.
     
  5. vincep99

    vincep99 Formula 3
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    I think you have to add somethnig to the epoxy so it is not slippery. Also I saw one garage where the owner evidently used the wrong expoxy and it was not gasoline-resistant. One drop of gas lifted a whole section of epoxy. So I went with a good concrete sealer. I am fairly happy with it, as it is not as stain-resistant as epoxy.
     
  6. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
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    I have tried various paint on coatings, some worked better than others, but they were all easily gouged and when that happened, eventually peeling started. Went with a lay down plastic tile (I used race deck) this was the trick. Looks good, feels good on the feet and seems to last forever. If something does happen, pop it off and replace the individual tile.
     
  7. Randy R

    Randy R Formula Junior
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    At our old house, I used the Home Depot stuff (power washed, etched, multiple coats) and after about 6 months it just started to peel up. At the new house, I contracted with Garage Solutions, who power washed and ground the cement with a diamond cutter, then laid down two coats of epoxy, followed by two coats of industrial strength poly/ure-than (not sure which). The surface has remained flawless for over two years...
     
  8. raider1968

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    #8 raider1968, Apr 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Use a pro to do it - needs to be ground, etched and then epoxy paint with or without flexs of color - then clear coat applied and can use gold flexes in clear coat - had mine done 7 years ago and no problems - can re clear coat if starts to get dull where wheel contact clear coat - I think I paid about $2900 7 yrs ago for 1200 sq feet
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  9. Graz

    Graz Formula 3

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    +1. I tried one of those "do it yourself" floor coverings. Did exactly as the instructions specified and it still lifted under the hot rubber tires. I finally had it done professionally. They grind down the floor first then apply polyethylene coating followed by base coat and flecks and finally covered w polyethylene. Cost over $3000 for a 2 car garage but well worth it. Floor looks amazing and its impervious to water, stains etc.
     
  10. Roupin

    Roupin Formula 3

    Oct 7, 2013
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    Did mine 4 yeats ago using the products from ucoatit.com
    Came out great, has been reaistant to oil, grease, tires, tool scrapes...everything. Still looks great and I'm going to do my other garage soon as well.
    Followed the instructions perfectly and asked them any questions I could come up with beforehand. Cost more than the typical Home Depot kit but was well worth it. I think it cost about $400 for an oversize 3 car garage.
     
  11. Jaguar 15

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    I have thought about this for the desert home for a few years. Problem is, these garages look great with a shiny car sitting there. How do they hold up when you repeatedly roll a jack over it? Drop tools on it, spill oil, gas, cleaning fluids on it? In other words, it is practical for a REAL DIYer that may do an "engine out"? I LOVE the look, just afraid it will look like crap one month later....
     
  12. mikeyr

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    #12 mikeyr, Apr 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    12-14 years old Racedeck floor, its done a few engine outs, a few gearboxes. And some restorations of old Brit cars. A little soap and water and its good as new. (except where weld splatter hit it, there are some tiles damaged by plasma cutting and/or welding, but they are easily replaced)

    OH and when I moved...I took the floor tiles with me for the new much nicer garage.
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  13. yronZFF

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    Being an industrial coatings contractor, there's a few things that a DIY should know before applying a coating system on a concrete slab, especially if vehicles will be driven on it.

    The concrete needs to be clean and free of curing compounds, sealers and oil, the moisture vapor emission in the concrete slab must be less than 3lb/24hr/1000sf for most coatings, the pH must be within acceptable levels, and the concrete needs an anchor pattern for the coating to grab on to. Most failures will result because one or more of these was not right.

    Calcium chloride and pH tests must be performed, and the concrete slab must be shot blasted with grinding of areas inaccessible to shot blasting such as edges. If you haven't done any of this and your floor hasn't failed, you're lucky. We've seen all sorts of failures over the years on coatings done by others because of lack of testing or improper preparation and it's always harder to redo it than to have done it right in the first place.

    Good luck, but be careful and hope everything goes well.
     
  14. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    As others have stated, concrete preparation is very important... In my case I used EpoxyMaster. I looked at various options and then decided between EpoxyMaster and UCoatIt. I went with EpoxyMaster, as it has more solids and when completed is 10mils thick ... which I felt was better than UCoatIt. At the time Costco carried EpoxyMaster (EM) and so I purchased two "kits" on sale for about $500 total including shipping. This was enough to do my shop which was about 900 sq-ft. Sadly, I was unable to rent a shot blaster or walk-behind concrete grinder, and so I had to do it manually!... which meant about 5 hours of using a concrete "diamond cup" on my grinder, a creeper, proper gear (hearing, respirator, mask, etc), and a lot of patience. I lightly ground the surface and then prepped according to the instructions (thorough washing, acid wash, etc). I applied the EM and the results are amazing. You definitely need at least two people for the application, as the work time is highly optimistic. In low temps and low humidity I found that I had about a 8 minute work time and so I had to work in smaller areas and fast. Lastly, what was also impressive was the lack of smell... I simply had my overhead door open and just in case a large fan to extract any possible fumes... There were none even during the 24 hour cure time.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  15. myronx19

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    #15 myronx19, Apr 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I used a product called "Enviro Epoxy"

    Enviro Epoxy Products Inc. - Home


    It's 100% solids - no VOC, and it's very durable. Comes in many colours, including white. I opted for high gloss and no flakes (see the reflection of the toolbox on the floor). the garage is a lot more full of cabinets now, looks a bit different.


    Stay away from the big box store stuff, it's not 100% solids epoxy (solvent cure). This 10x20 garage set me back about $300 with some epoxy fillers for cracks.

    Also, so far no issues with hot tire pickup or marks from jackstands or anything else. Preparation is key as stated before - HOWEVER.... test your concrete for moisture migration from whatever is underneath. If you have very saturated soil under the slab, you will have epoxy popping off everywhere. We had a massive storm last summer, and it forced a ton of water under my garage. No matter how much prep, moisture will migrate to the epoxy layer and will create "pimples" and the epoxy will come off. My floor is very slippery with wet shoes.

    Tape a 2 sq/ft piece of 6mil vapour barrier to the floor for 24-48 hours and see if the concrete has become damp. If your slab is over vapour barrier or insulation, then you're ok to coat. If you have moisture, you will have issues.

    My other option was to use a high strength porcelain tile which would have been better in my case.
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  16. raider1968

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    I have one of those garages with shiny cars in it but from a a liquid spill point of view, nothing seems to bother my epoxy floor - oil etc just wipes up - spray on a mild floor cleaner and use a wet mop and its perfect - we don't do engines out but one of my son in laws is a mechanic and he always has something going on at my place on weekends - maybe radiators out, rotors, pads etc but he lays down cardboard under whatever he is working on and just throws it away when done - but from what you sound like what you are doing - a true wrench head - maybe just raw concrete would be best
    Wrench head is a thing to be proud of in my family - I'm a gear head-
    can really drive them but can't fix them - now my son in law is a great driver but he can fix what he drives - so he is a gear and wrench head
     
  17. Bob in Texas

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    #17 Bob in Texas, Apr 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Use a professional. Had my floor put down in 2008 and it's perfect. The company did a lot of prep work before putting it down and it came with a warranty.
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  18. yronZFF

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    Yes, if you have moisture, you will have issues. The plastic sheet method is ASTM D4263 which we've used in the past, but most commercial and industrial projects nowadays require that calcium chloride moisture testing per ASTM F1869 procedures be followed to determine moisture vapor emission as the current industry standard.

    BTW, nice garages Myron and Bob!
     
  19. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #19 WATSON, Apr 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Use a pro. The Epoxy stuff is fine for basement floors, but hot tires, road salt and other issues in a garage require a better preparation. A prep you can not achieve without the proper tools. I am working through my current garage and am finishing cabinets, etc...but here is what I had done last Nov. It made its way though a very tough winter (note the seams being covered...and no cracks!)
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  20. GTO Joe

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    I have had both pro and DIY. The pro job was a good deal in the condo garage I used to own. It did lift a small spot that had some brake fluid that was on for an extended time before I spotted the leak though. At my home I had two 2car garages and I did those with UCoatIt myself with the spatter and the clear coat. It was in Arizona so hot tires was a concern. I did them both before a car was in the garage and just followed the instructions about the acid prep etc. and never had a problem the eight years that we were there. I have a new garage under construction as I write this and am undecided which way I'll go. Both were fine for me.
     
  21. glenv6

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    #21 glenv6, Apr 11, 2014
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