hi there. just want to know the proper procedure to re-paint a 360. 1. what need to be taken off the car? ( only thing i know are bumpers, headlights, windsheild rubber seals) 2. do I need to sand it down to bare metal in order to make the work perfect? can you even tell afterwardss?
It really depends on the condition of the paint on the car now and your budget. If you are changing colors, a lot needs to be taken apart. A good, experienced painter can answer these questions.
I would remove the following: - Bumpers - Side skirts - Front boot lid - Doors (inlcuding the shut panels) - Engine compartment lid - Lights - Rear grill If it's a spider you'll also need to take the roof out. Once these are off the car you can get to all the body coloured parts. How you prep the car for paint depends on your painter and your budget....
+1 voicey, and for best result of painting the roof remove the side quarter windows and aluminium trims around them..
Agree 100% Also, the best jobs are done by taking the car completely apart. Many different opinions on bare metal or not. No right or wrong answer but as Tim said, the current paint condition can drive this. Typically on parts such as the front, if a lot of chips, it's better to go bare and work up.
The car has been repainted before but it was a just a very bad job IMO. Thus the need to redo it right. Bare metal maybe?
Well, depends on why you think it's bad? If it has a lot of peel, it might be able to be wet sanded and buffed. If other issues, best to remove and start over.
IMO, it depends more on why it was repainted. I doubt anyone repainted a 360 just because they had time on their hands. If it was painted badly, you can only imagine the bodywork underneath.
I really mean 8 millimeter. To be fair, not every part of the car would be 8mm, But the part of the rear bumper's paint is really 8mm. Judging from the overall sight, I'd say other area of the car wouldn't be a lot thinner. hence the thought of bare metal method.
8mm? I think you just lost everyone there... What are we talking about? The paint doesn't look right? Why are you measuring? This is confined just to the bumper and it looks correct but you think it's 8mm thick paint? You should post pictures here of problem areas if you want some more qualified advice. It's becoming a strong possibility that the car is fine and you should consult a professional if you want a second opinion.
ok, why I say its 8mm thick. When I was trying to modify this rear bumper to CS style, I found this. I don't think the whole car is 8mm thick paint, but this is an indication of bad paint job, isn't it? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes that is a tonne of body filler. Not paint. All needs removing... Notice that the car is painted in primer at factory. Then, painted in body colour. Then, underseal is put on AFTER which means when you repaint the whole car you have to work out a way to make the edge details correct - so for example the sills have undercoat OVER the factory paint. For a great job you need to remove some undercoat (it literally peels off - not well done at all as they [Ferrari] don't bother to "key" the undercoat) then paint it then top up the undercoat to get the right finish lines. Check out the attached as a good example- around the back the black undercoat sits OVER the finish creating the mask line. (around the lights etc) Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's not paint, its filler and lots of it! And has probably been applied due to accident damage. Its a botch repair and I wouldn't want that on my car. The front on F-cars gets repainted multiple times due to road rash so how do you know the whole car is like that? Someone with a paint thickness meter can tell you more...
does any one know what's the proper procedure to re-paint a CS front bumper? I know a pro paint shop can do it. Trust me, I don't have a potent paint shop around so I have learn the basics and supervise the local guys. They do hackjobs all the time what I mean it like: sand , primer,,,, spay, coating kind of stuff.
According to the way my old Porsche was painted: (1) Prep (parts removal/masking) (2) Repair dimples/dents caused by flying rocks etc) (3) Bulk sand/wipe down (4) Wet sand/wipe down (5) Primer/wet sand (6) Primer/wet sand (7) Final wipe down (8) & (9) Base Coat/wet sand .......... repeated based on personal choice of paint 'depth' visible below the clear coat (10) Wipe Down (11) & (12) Clear Coat/wet sand ........ repeated based on personal choice Note that steps 8 & 9 and 11 & 12 when repeated will increase the cost proportionally. Your results may differ
i assume the primer used on the bumper would be different than that used on the metal door? the (8) is the actual colored paint , yes?
