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Old 02-15-2017, 02:58 PM
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F430 E-diff solenoid--anyone understand?

Any help appreciated. I got the red E-diff warning. Local independent shop replaced the valve/solenoid ($900 part) and warning went away for a few weeks--then came back. I've read several posts suggesting these valves are weak, replaced 4 to get one to work, etc. I can't believe this is it?

So two weeks ago, I get in there and fiddle with the connector, wires, etc, and bingo, warning goes away....this lasts for two blocks--warning light on--and I cannot duplicate thus temporary fix by fiddling.... Anyone out there understand how this works, and what I might try? I don't think the valve failed that quick, and by the way, no tracking, or extreme stress in those few weeks. One additional piece of info, no codes based on dealer check (reset ECU for an update but I told them not to fix e-diff issue, since I hope to figure it out).

Is there a separate e-diff ECU or reset?
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:26 AM
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I'll make the opening bid. This parts diagram shows what makes up the system POWER UNIT AND TANK - Ricambi America, Inc. The figure in the upper left shows two hydraulic lines from the F1 pump unit. Part 47 is the valve that pressurises the hydraulic clutch inside the differential. So that's what it is but what parameter causes the failure light to go on??? I assume your F1 system is working OK? The only sensors on the axle are the ABS sensors on the wheels, matching those inputs can tell whether the diff is locked, but who knows.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:14 PM
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Early F430s from 2005 still used the same F1 pump as the 360 and that proved to be marginal for powering both the F1 system and the E-Diff if the F1 system was not kept in tip-top condition. The pump was upgraded at Assembly Number 61589. Impossible to diagnose something like this over the internet, but if she were mine, I would have the F1 fluid changed and the system bled to see if it will help the problem. That should be done every 3 years, at any rate, and the possibility exists you have the original F1 fluid in her and she has never been bled of air and any other contaminants.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:55 PM
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F1 fluid was replaced, system bled completely, since one of the bleeders was leaking, and a new pump motor. All this done just a few months before the e-diff warning started.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:57 PM
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But I suppose bleeding again is a relatively easy, thing to try?
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:14 AM
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Since fiddling with the wiring fixes it that's the obvious place to look. Does the connector firmly snap into place, connectors are notorious for breaking when they're disconnected for maintenance? Sometimes the pins on connectors get hot and bend so you get intermittent contact. Bend them in or out a bit to ensure good contact. The wiring might have an internal break , this is tough to troubleshoot unless you can check continuity.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:35 PM
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Joe- If just done, probably not an issue. Sounds like you need someone with an SD3 who is also a whiz with a VOM meter.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
Joe- If just done, probably not an issue. Sounds like you need someone with an SD3 who is also a whiz with a VOM meter.
Thanks Terry--was hoping to fix it myself, but I think you are right. An SD3 and a Whiz!

Apparently, from what I've read on line, others have had similar quirky issues with this.

One other thing--if I disconnect the solenoid while the ignition is on, it alarms/buzzes....so I think this means the wiring is connecting after all?

Thanks again
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