Question for those that have done this. Ref pg D7 of the 308 GT4 WSM. I released adjuster sleeve (2) from the lower attachment point on the clutch lever and also released the tie rod (4). After inserting the clevis pin in the clutch cable to lowest point on the clutch lever, I adjusted the cable using adjuster (2) until the hole in the bell housing and the clutch lever aligned. All per manual. Now my question: How do I know if I have the tie rod adjusted right? I lengthened it until it could be easily attached to the second (upper) attachment point on the clutch lever but all it says in the WSM is give the necessary clearance to the clutch by acting on the tie rod. Any guidance? Philip
The pedal pad should have about 10-15mm of free travel. Just use a long ruler on the pedal, and note the travel against the steering wheel rim. It's a bit vague though, as it depends how hard you push the pedal as to what is free play... But "some" is needed, and "too much" will mean the clutch may not relaese properly (drag), and "not enough" can cause the pressure plate to have pressure on it, potentially causing premature slippage. 308QV have a different design, with no free play, and different mechanism, and need to be adjusted differently.
Thanks, Phil. Clearly the helper spring is being compressed over the first part of the travel (and this resistance will be felt in the clutch pedal). I'll measure as you suggest. Philip
Philip -- I believe that notation refers to maintaining the 2mm clearance dimension shown in Fig 1 page D6 when the clutch pedal is in it's full-up rest position (which works out to the 15~20mm freeplay spec at the operational clutch pedal surface). Let me check my notes for the ratios, but IIRC (refer to Fig 2 page D7) if you remove the 6mm clevis pin holding the tie rod 4 to arm 1, tie rod 4 should move forward easily about 1/2 of the hole size (3mm) to close up the 2mm dimension.
This part of the adjustment should be checked, but unless it was previously misadjusted, or the cable is stretching & about to fail, shouldn't need changing. It's easy to check, you should just be able to slip a Craftsman #2 phillips screwdriver (or similarly sized metal rod, even back end of a drill bit) thru the reference hole & mating hole in the arm & have it slip into place. Once verified, leave the screwdriver in place for the next adjustment. 91tr has it right. The tie rod adjustment is where all the clutch wear is normally compensated for. The clutch adjustment's purpose is to restore the 2mm clearance between the throwout bearing & the pressure plate. The lever the back end of the rod is attached to is ~1.5 the length of the internal fork that actuates the throwout bearing. So 2mm free play/clearance in the throwout bearing corresponds to ~3mm movement of the external lever's end. Adjust rod 4 so that when the rod is pulled firmly towards the front of the car, the hole in the rod lines up with the middle of the hole in the lever 1. Thus you have the necessary 3mm slack in the rod when the rod is pushed backwards to install the clevis pin. Once you remove the clevis pin, you should be able to easily pull the screwdriver out & lever 1 won't change position. A couple of quick checks at the adjustment point are: 1) Pull the cable forward. Rod 4 should move forward about 3mm, then become much harder to move as the thrust bearing begins to release the clutch. 2) Slide the phillips screwdriver back into the alignment hole. It should go in easily. NOTE: As the clutch wears, the 2mm of thrust bearing-pp clearance goes away. Once it's gone, it's time to re-adjust the length of lever 4 again to restore it.
