How To Install a Tubi Exhaust on the 360 Modena

I highly recommend having someone else there to help you, it makes things way easier, especially with removal and replacement of the bumper and exhaust. Make sure to check your Tubi, it should have 8 bolts/nuts, and 2 ring clamps. And make sure you have the 2 necessary exhaust gaskets.

NOTE: it has been shown that you can actually install the exhaust without removing the rear bumper. We initially tried it this way, but found it was just too hard to get the leverage to actually pull/lift/rotate the main canister apart from the catalytic converters with the bumper on (step 13). So we removed the bumper, and it was a piece of cake that way. It’s also much easier to access the bolts holding the tips/piping to the main canister with the bumper off (step 10). So I highly recommend just doing it right and removing the bumper.

1) If you have a lift, you can ignore the first 3 steps. Otherwise you should first place 2 jacks at the rear jack points that are about 4 inches ahead of the rear wheels.

2) Before jacking up the car, loosen the rear wheel lugs. Make sure you have a deep 22mm socket for taking off the wheel lugs.

3) Carefully jack up both sides of the car until you can fit jack-stands underneath the wishbones, directly below the shock bolts, as close as possible to the tires.

4) Remove the rear wheels.
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5) Now remove the gravel guards on both sides. Each gravel guard has 4 phillips screws holding it on. In the photo I’ve already loosened one.
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6) After removing the gravel guards, you will be able to directly see the exhaust pipes leading to the tips, but most importantly you can now access the 4 bolts (on each side) that hold the bumper to the main body. The 2 larger bolts towards the centerline of the car are 19mm. I have arrows pointing to the 2 smaller bolts which you can’t see in the photo, they are on the outside edge of the wheel well. Right next to those smaller bolts is also a wiring harness you need to unclip. On the driver’s side, you will need to remove a heat shield before you will be able to access these bolts. (this photo borrowed from buttuz4eva)
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7) While you are there, and if you have a stock exhaust, you will see the exhaust bypass valves that are welded onto the stock exhaust pipes. There should be a vacuum hose running to a nipple on each valve. Disconnect the hose and plug it with a 6mm bolt and zip tie it away. The Tubi, and probably most other aftermarket exhausts, don’t make use of this stock feature which allows exhaust through either one or both pipes depending on RPM, supposedly to help low RPM backpressure.
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8) Next you can unbolt the 8 underbody bolts that hold it to the bumper. (this photo borrowed from buttuz4eva)
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9) Make sure you have unclipped both wiring harnesses on each side. You have one more harness to unclip, the one connecting to the license plate lights. It sits right behind the license plate area and you first need to slightly pull the bumper back a little to be able to access it. Once you have unclipped that harness, you are free to fully remove the bumper.
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10) Now you will have full access to the exhaust. Marked in this photo are the 4 bolts (on each side) you need to loosen that hold the exhaust tips/piping to the main canister. (this photo borrowed from buttuz4eva)
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11) Here’s a close-up shot of the same area with the tips/piping removed. The Tubi comes with it’s own replacement bolts because the stock bolts are welded onto the stock exhaust.
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12) Now loosen the 2 clamps that hold the main canister to the 2 catalytic converters.
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13) Now loosen the 8 bolts from the bracket holding the main canister. It’s a good idea to mark an arrow pointing up on this center bracket so you know which way to put it back. Once the bracket is removed, you now want to separate the main canister from the catalytic converters. Stand directly behind the piping on one side of the canister, take a firm grasp on the area where it bends and lift up and out. The idea is to pull back and also rotate the canister forward, as simply pulling straight back probably won’t get it out. It definitely helps to have 2 people, 1 person on each end doing this part.
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14) Once you’ve got the main canister loose, carefully lift it up and out. I recommend sticking the stock bolts and gaskets on it in case you ever need to reinstall it.
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15) Lower the Tubi in place, tighten the tips/piping to the main canister, make SURE you have placed the gaskets on. You don’t want to put everything back only to find a gasket on the floor.
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16) A few pointers, when you reattach the main bracket to the canister, don’t tighten the 2 bolts on each end up all the way. Some movement in these bolts allows you to fine tune the tilt of the tips after the bumper is on, and then you should tighten them up all the way. Make sure to tighten the clamps holding the main canister to the catalytic converters nice and tight. Also, replacing the rear bumper can be a pain if not done carefully. When you slide the bumper back on, make sure the underbody parts slide properly under the mid underbody parts that it needs to bolt back on to. Improper alignment not only prevents you from bolting the underbodies together, it also prevents you from aligning the bumper on right. The bumper will not just slide into place perfectly, it will sag and you should have someone hold it up and in proper alignment while you tighten the main 19mm bolts back. Then tighten the 2 smaller bolts on each side back. Make SURE you clipped the 3 wiring harnesses back. The rest of the process is pretty much a simple case of doing it all in reverse.
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Haha, yeah when we were finished, I forgot everything else and just jumped in the car to drive it!

 

Hey Viken,

Yeah I prefer the stock rear so Ferrari of OC swapped it out for me. Here's a link to some pics I took of it along with some of my other cars. Other than the grill change I believe everything else is the same as how you had it.

http://www.studiotsang.com/myphotos/d70/cars/
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Thanks, glad the post is useful to some.

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