for what are the side flanges on the right and left pipe? wastegate?
Yes thats correct but no turbos now so Ill remove them and use the 2-1 merge pipes so I can plumb them directly to the muffler.
Test fitted the clam which is in base with a few imperfections that had to be addressed (and one big drop on water you can ignore on the rear top section). Lots of room for the M engine, now I can make the new motor mount brackets. The clam will get more base today and then clear plus the satin areas. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ohhhhh man this is making my mouth water. I cannot wait to see this car. You are doing holy work my friend.
I can second that wholeheartedly. Can't wait to get her back in the garage (or more exactly, put her back on the road) . Its been a long strange trip for sure!!
Had a look at the muffler. The inlets from the turbos are not in an ideal location so Im going to cut them both off right at the muffler and put some reducing cones on them to get it down to the size of the collectors at the headers. Then Ill take mandrel bent pipes and cut accordingly to make the system fit. Found it interesting its only taking an exhaust sample from the right bank to make its AFR calculations for both and its the left side that grenaded. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interesting misalignment with the frame in reference to the clamshell / body. The engine is centered on the chassis, I intend to move it to the right slightly for better header clearance on the left side because the bulk of the box is off to the left by design and moving it to the right would compensate for this and the weight of the driver ever so slightly. Yes Im splitting hairs here moving it over but when theres only benefits and no effort why not? If I move it off to the right it will be centered in the clamshell. Now with the engine centered in the frame check out the intake plenums in relation to the opening in the clamshell. The engines from the factory are centered in the frame but Ive never checked to see if others are consistently misaligned to the clam. I measured the clam in several places and its symmetrical. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you move the engine what happens with the halfshafts. Maybe the runners and plenums are not perfectly symetrical? As the body was "Handmade" there could be all types of symetry issues.
The intakes are symmetrical. I can see the valve covers vary in distance from side to side to the frame structure where the side panels go and the suspension mounts. The half shafts have at least 2" of movement and Im only talking about moving the engine 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch here. I dont have room in the chassis to move it beyond that. And this was only an observation! Not a big deal just sharing my findings. Wish I never brought it up lol
Motor mount templates which Ill now make out of steel. Two folded pieces of metal per mount which will be welded together and powder coated. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This thread is fantastic, I love what you're doing to the car. As usual, the workmanship and your knowledge on the BB is amazing. Thank you for sharing Newman.
The hefty frame is the main reason for the hefty weight of the car I believe. Tis a good thing they didn't skimp on the frame architecture.
I can pick the back of this car up by hand and swing it around (minus the engine of course). They do take a good hit because of the main rails and front structure as far forward as the control arms. The rest is as strong as monkey bars you buy from walmart.
I have a couple of ideas without really putting a lot of thought into it and probably get a few more as I get closer. But one thats interests me the most is to make an aluminum rectangular intake box that sits on top of the upper rear cross brace spanning the distance between the two factory air intakes. The center of the box would have a top plate on it but be open under the two factory openings. This way the air intake tube / tubes would enter under the that closed top in the middle which is where I would have a filter. With it in the middle like that there will never be an issue with water entering the air intake and filter but it would get fresh air from up top where the rear spoiler directs air to. The other option was twin pipes that head down to the back corners behind the rear wheels with a plate closing the area and the filter beneath that plate out of sight. Problem is they are behind both rear wheels dealing with road grit and so on which I dont like. See the box here that I made for a 3.4 stroker I built on a QV I restored. Similar concept in mind where it draws air from up top but the filter is protected from the elements under that roof. The boxer box would have 2 openings on either end rather than 1. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login