It's only the drip rails that are riveted in, not a big deal to remove. Other than the rear grills (which would have been anodized originally), the other trim parts would have been painted from the factory, although I do agree that the hand brushed touch-ups that 19271 received were less than perfect. Thankfully, Paul's on the case and all will be corrected.
With the vast wealth of expertise that's represented on fchat, Newman and I cannot possibly be the only people to have hit a brick wall when it comes to sourcing various parts for some of the older machinery. With this in mind, I'm wondering if anybody lurking on this thread has found a really great shop that can replicate the aluminium coolant tubes that feature in many of our cars, and which are no longer available. Please add to this thread openly, or PM either Paul or me. Your assistance is greatly appreciated. I'll post a similar request in other sections of fchat.
Pulled the liners friday and started stripping the heads. Ill remove the remaining studs in the block and water blast all the castings including my own block and heads. Plenty of rust on the liners and they were firmly in the block but they'll clean up. My biggest concern was the cooling system o-ring sealing surface in the block for the liner, I found no issues after close inspection so were good. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Steering column housing issue. This boxer has the chassis number on the right door post and rear frame by the muffler. The steering column has no chassis number or provisions for one like any other boxer or 308 ive seen in person or photos. Prior to taking the switches out I figured it was the same as a dino housing but I was wrong. The slots for the stalks are in different locations for the Dino vs the boxer. The column switches are boxer switches so Im not sure what the housing is from. The dilemma is the parts book shows the raised pad for the chassis number so I can only assume this car should have the pad. I can make a chassis number plate and drop it in a replacement column housing but I wonder if this car came this way? I have no way to know unless someone else out there has a boxer with no chassis number pad but a number on the door post like this car. Anyone seen a boxer with a number-less housing? The boxer housing on the left, dino on the right and 76 308 with the raised number pad. If we go by the parts book its clear it should have a chassis plate but we know the parts book is wrong in several areas. I would hate to go through the trouble of making the ID plate only to find out it wasnt supposed to have one. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Does the 365 have a raised plate? I assume you'll be stripping and repainting the column housing, so you might also see if there's any sign of one being machined off. Being the first of the 5-liter cars, it could have been a proposed/prototype change that didn't carry beyond that one car. The inside looks too "correct" to be a non-factory piece by an outside shop. Possibly from another model, even? I'd probably keep it as it is.
Good day Paul, I wish I knew about this a month or two ago... I say this, as I found a NOS steering column on the Web with no serial number stamped on it... It would have been perfect if you wanted/needed to update this column with the a NOS one and you could have added the the correct chassis number and so it would have looked totally OEM. I will see if I can find it, as at the time I found it quite interesting. Cheers, Sam
Cars before and after have the number plate, the car right after 19271 (2nd BB512 built) has a number plate as well. Ill source a housing and make a new plate otherwise ill have a dispute with a judge and nothing to back up the lack of a number plate.
More progress. The body is coming along, ill post pics of that next week. White exhaust valve came from the problem cylinder, the hydraulic lock with the banana connecting rod. Seat contact is close to the margin and they are OEM valves. Ill see if I can break one to see if they're brittle. Block pic number 1 is a BBi block with the machined parting line, next is carbed boxer with "as cast" parting line. Seems to be consistent injected vs carbs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Early BB512 (and probably 365's) transfer gear case with one support bearing. The pilot bearing acts as the 2nd support. On the injected car (and somewhere in the BB512 range) they changed up the gear case, upper gear and input shaft to add the 2nd bearing support plus the pilot bearing totalling 3 supports. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here are the pics of the bosses on the top of the blocks that identify them as carbed or injected. Had a problem loading pics in the other post so here they are. Injected cars have 3 threaded bosses carbed car blocks have nothing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Control arms ready for plating (still need to press out the 2 link bars on the two arms). Studs, gears and controls removed from the bell housing for plating and cleaning of castings. Pretty much every stud hole had the threads come out with the studs. The studs have been out before, some were in backwards, some too short so not threaded in all the way, cobbled is the best way to describe it. Im surprised the gear case didnt get launched off the bellhousing the last time it was driven. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bellhousing controls out and as expected, the outer needle bearing is destroyed, the other two inners are okay. The outer bearing is larger than the inners, hopefully still available. Pedal box next. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I need to have a stamp made for the booster markings. Ill remove the studs from the inspection cover of the pedal box then plate and clean. Booster is apart for plating, internals are mint. Indication of a small brake fluid leak from the master trickling down the inside of the booster shell but no big deal, the diaphragm is perfect. Rim splines ready for plating. My next bin of items to plate or clean and detail is waiting, then another and another. Hacked my finger to the point it looked like ground beef oozing out of the gash. Needs stitches without question but our free health care system would have me waiting 7 hrs before getting attention. I opted to clean it, pump it with ointment and tape it tight and keep working instead! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Continuing to strip sub-assemblies down for refinishing or replacing. Water pump had a blob or corrosion under the impeller making it difficult to turn by hand, drain hole plugged solid. Distributor upper bearing seized solid so the shaft was spinning in the bearing race rather than the bearing turing. Advance weights seized in the full advance position and been that way for a long time. I cant budge them so they're soaking. Fuel enrichment solenoid and fast idle solenoid specific to the BB512. Carb accel pump lever rollers seized as well. Carb float looks like it was run over by a car before being put back in the carb. No shortage of garbage in the float bowls. The cylinder with the hydraulic lock and bent rod is fed by the barrel with the crunched float. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hey Paul - excellent work - Inspirational! Interesting to see the BB and BBi gear casings side by side. Is there much difference between a Testarossa gear box / case and a BB. Are they interchangeable? Best wishes Sean
Sean, The Testarossa gearbox casting is different than the boxer, they changed the plumbing where the engine mates to the box. So, its 365 on its own for the casting, 512 on its own, Testarossa on its own and I believe TR is different again!
Its pretty tough but its the real deal, numbers matching and on the bright side its never been hit! Everything else can be fixed.
I have good results with 3M Steri-Strip Closure tape, in those situations.....see if you can find it at a local Hospital Supply. Benefits over hard stitching is that any contaminants in the open wound can 'walk out' over time, from the healing muscle. HTH.
Wow, so you suppose that mangled carb float hydrolocked the whole cylinder with GAS???? How the heck would THAT damage to the float occur? Assuming your "run over" conjecture was a josh....
Houston can be real tough on a car... Rainy weather, high humidity, horrible roads, very few mechanics with Ferrari knowledge..
I would find an aircraft maintenance shop, there are a few in the Toronto area. Bending the tubes shouldn't be too difficult? Beading is done using these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Tubing-Beaders-Individual/ Rracers used to use (WW II surplus) Parker Tubing Beaders but now they are slightly un-affordable: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Parker-Oil-Water-Pipe-Tube-Beading-Tool-Kit-1-4-1-0-/180941293548?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item2a20f107ec#ht_1082wt_1261 McKinnon Metals has Al tubing: http://mckinnonmetals.com/assets/downloads/Aluminum.pdf Gerrit
