Gang, Sorry for the newbie question but I spent some time in the Search function to figure out what these codes where but I couldn't see much around how I can DIY my way out of the CELs. I'm also occasionally getting a Slow Down light when I've been driving her for a bit. Once it was flashing. Another time it just came on for a second and then went away. I have an '97 Spider. 42xxx miles. She runs strong otherwise but I have had CELs pretty consistently since I acquired her a couple months ago. She has a Maranello exhaust and Fabspeed headers and the engine was recently rebuilt. Other than that, she's pretty stock. I am using an Innova 3100 series OBDII scanner. Apart from the annoyance of having to clear the codes regularly my CEL problem will soon become a CHP problem because -- as most of you know -- a 355 won't pass CA smog with a CEL on. Clearing the CEL does not solve the problem; it only clears the ECU memory. An empty ECU brain still won't smog a 355 in CA. Once that computer fills up again, CELs come back and the problem repeats itself. So....my temp tag is now out of date and I am driving around with no plates. Hence, the Catch-22. Need to solve this issue before I start getting pulled over and smokey has his way with me and my checkbook. So...send me your tips on how best to tackle these fault codes. I do have the 355 WSM so if there are sections on swapping ECUs and the like, please let me know where the steps are because I have no idea how to swap an ECU or anything like what most people suggest are the DIY steps to solve these faults. Thanks all. ketel
1448 Catalyst bypass valve circuit 1445 catalyst temperature range performance 0153 bank 2 sensor 1 0159 bank 2 sensor 2 Others have succeeded in wiring open the bypass valves but just as many do not succeed. Make sure that is not your case. Let's start first with your 1448 which says Cat bypass valve malfunctioning. It is likely stuck open which drives the cat thermocouple temperature out of range, which also causes your slow down light. Remove the bypass valve, check its functionality, its vacuum port and lines. Fix it if it is broken or replace it (expensive). The O2 sensors (generic) are cheap and easily spliced in. So, I would replace both bank 2 sensors front and back ($150 both). Clear the codes, drive and see. You are right, you cannot pass smog with these codes in California. Did you buy it out of state?
Could be a variety of things, but items #8 SOLENOID VALVE [p/n 159177] (2X) and #42 CATALYST TEMPERATURE CONTROL STATION [p/n 179278] in this diagram are very common, known failure modes on the later 355s that can produce the DTC's you are seeing as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yelcab is correct. The bypass valve will toss the code whether it is stuck open or closed. If the Solenoid valve on the R/H side of the car is stuck and does not open, the valve will not open at the determined time and the 1448 code is reported. Work backwards. Pull the vacuum line form the valve and make sure the vlave is not wired (or stuck) open and is fully closed. Put an external tube on the vacuum port and pull a vacuum and see if it moves open (I used my brake bleeder to so this). If it moves as it should then the issue is moist likely in the solenoid valve or tubing in the system. Pull the solenoid valve and give it a good cleaning. You can bench check it with a 12 volt source. Next put a vacuum gauge on the air pump and make sure it is turning and pulling a vacuum. How old are your cats? Headers with a free flowing exhaust + original cats may be a concern. As Yelcab states, O2 sensors are cheap and available on Amazon. As he says, replace them and see what you get. P1445 & the slow down light could be a bad thermocouple. Or it could be a bat cat and the thermocouple is doing exactly what it should. You may want to change thermocouples from left to right and see if you get a P1447 code instead of the P1445. If you do, replace the thermocouple. if you get the 1445 back, look closer at the cat. All putzy stuff.....
Seems to be my new hobby here in LA Make sure your bypass is working correctly first, if not fix that then clear codes and start over. Had the same codes and it was the bypass opened by the vacuum hoses crossed, its usually something simple Many times 1 code will cause a ton of residual codes that mean nothing
It usually is something simple....and it was my hobby most of last summer Mine drove me nuts for about three months. Turns out the previous mechanic reversed the connections on the Cat ECU & Bypass ECU. I could not figure it out as the damn slowdown light would come on just idling around town. Got PO'd and floored it on the entrance ramp. Car just flying down the ramp and once we hit red line in second gear the slowdown light went....wait for it....out. GAH! Been over a year now with no CEL or SD lights
GAD!!!!! my codes are back. 1445 + 1448 as usual....CEL and SDL even on a cold-start. (SlOW DOWN! SLOW DOWN! sLOW DOWN! ALLLLLLL DAYYYYYY LONG.) A lot of good info here, looks like one day soon I will be reversing those thermos and looking for a 1445 VS a 1447. And what's with this bypass-valve code constantly? From the sound of things, the valve works great. I hear the thunder when it closes, and I hear the power when it opens. Weird.
I just got my first sdl as I was coming home. Driving slow in my development. I always try to slow it down approaching home for cool down effect. I just got the car 2 months ago, 1998 f355 spider. Can you guess the color. 26,000 f1 and I believe an adjustable brake bias by the ash tray? I spent the 1st two months destickying the interior. Thanks Ferrari chat for the help. Also took out dash to rePplace the gear indicator. Also had to make a rod out of heim joints to fix missing rod for headlight. Thanks Ferrari chat for being instrumental in doping me with all things Italian. Back to the sdl, decided to see what the deal was tonight and the blinking sdl started immediately on start up. I have a laser temp gun and did not see any issues but it was not run too long. I will further investigate, and get back. Car runs unbelievable and yes does have all original exhaust and cats etc.
In the absence of a true overheated CAT, your SDL is the result of an erroneous voltage output from the CAT ecu s. This can be the result of faulty thermocouples, faulty cat or faulty wiring. You can swap the parts that are in your car to determine what is at fault , blindly doing this until the light goes away or you can accurately determine what and where the problem is coming from by tapping the output leads of the CAT ecu and measuring the voltage real time and then correcting the problem that needs to be corrected. I have extensively studied and tested this issue in my car and my path to fixing it is outlined in this thread. It is long and maybe redundant but if you want to understand how the system works and accurately diagnose and fix it, it is all in there. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/443249-sdl-new-hyperflows-new-rear-o2-sensors-changed-oil-reinstalled-right-temp.html I'd be happy to help if you decide to use this approach.
DrBob, I appreciate all the help. I was on vacation last week and was thinking about it and also another car I have. It gets in your blood. I took. The car out yesterday and immediately at start up the SDL light was blinking. I have a laser temp gun, but it does not go high enough. Car seems to run perfect with nothing noticeably wrong. What a rush ay full throttle. I will look at the thread and see what I can do and appreciate the help.
If you got the SDL on a cold start, you have a bad TCU (most likely) or bad thermocouple (less likely).
It isn't really rocket science it is just using the proper tools to do the diagnosis. If you want to diagnose it intelligently i ll show you how. If you want to swap parts around and guess it can be done as well. I like to know the how and why of what I'm working on rather than blindly guessing. If and that is an important if, your cat temps are within range and this is just the warning system issue, it's a diagnostic and parts replacement solution. If your cats are overheated then the warning system is doing it's job and you need to delve into it Either way if you tap your outputs and assure the warning system is working properly them you can correctly fix your problem.
I will be looking into it this weekend and thanks for all the advice and tips. I did use a scan tool and wrote down the codes before clearing the codes. I will post the codes that I had and investigate the issues and report back. Thanks again
So nice of you to start this thread, ask your question..get help, then never update so how about an update if thats not too much to Ask. In my case, since i've rigged the exhaust valve open i get these same codes ...but the sound is worth it IMO as the car runs fine.
All these issues were resolved in 2015, three years after he bought the car. There is a final thread on the numerous error codes somewhere.
There is no update here to the issue...the proper thing to do when starting a thread asking questions and receiving help is to obviously to update that thread. At least thats what members who care about contributing to the community do
