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Discussion in 'LamborghiniChat.com' started by jollygood, Mar 18, 2013.
Thanks guys,off it goes
Lamborghini Countach Dashboard Airvent Grille | eBay
Is this the correct part for an 1982 Countach 5000S. Mine is cracked and I was looking for a new one.
Poor quality pic, but it looks like a side dash vent for a later QV car, which the 5000S did not have
Ask seller what the Lambo part number is.
But best is probably to totally stay away from this guy.
He normally does not state the Lamborghini part numbers, to make cross checking and price checking difficult.
He even came on here and sold none original poor quality Countach suspension parts to board members without standing up and reimbursing the buyers. Check the old threads.
He is a total fraud in my opinion.
I ordered and paid him for a Lamborghini manual, never got my manual nor my money back.
He is a member here but is using various nick names to avoid getting attention to his fraudulent business.
Ok. Thanks for the information I will keep looking.
Hi have a look at these on ebay uk number
Thanks Graeme that's what I am looking for.
Thanks for posting the part numbers from GT Car Parts.
It might become handy for someone!
Need a distributor cap for a Quattrovalvole.
- How was it with this less expensive Jag cap again?
- Is it a direct bolt on replacement for the Marelli cap?
- Who here have actually tried it?
Try OKP Parts from Munich, I have mine from them.
Thanks for the lead Raymond.
Whats your thoughts on powder coating springs and other suspension parts? I realized its little $ but is it really worth the extra effort?
Hey guys, I had a question about restoring old cars, like the Countach. I see engines that have been rebuilt, like the car in this auction,
Lamborghini Countach LP500S | eBay
and I'm wondering how the owners were able to make the finish look like new? Are they coated with enamel, or powder coated, or have they been treated with some other method? Thanks!
sorry double post
Painted, the oil and smog migrate into the aluminum and no matter how you try to clean the block, heads and intake manifolds remain stained - especially the downdraft intakes from the fuel fumes - however the final result is spectacular and in most cases remains pristine looking.
the final result ......
That's beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
Nice job, it looks fantastic.
Don't forget your radiator reservoir cap.
Looks very nice. Great job there.
I am about to replace my distributor cap.
But before putting a new cap on I need to know why it became faulty and why the arching occurred inside the old cap.
I am running MSD with a Blaster SS 8207 Coil.
Could it be that this coil is actually to strong for this configuration?
Way back this was a coil that was recommended for this setup.
Here's a pic of the 8207 coil.
It produces 300 milliamps with a max voltage output of 40,000 volts!
I have only had this happen once. The issue started about the time I cleaned the engine. It was a horizontal distributor just like the Countach. Looking at the cap it appeared there was water in the cap along the bottom side after washing it. It appeared that the water acted as a conductor initially but as it dried the arcing formed a carbon trail which continued to cause the arcing after the water was gone. Grinding the carbon trail off made a good temporary fix. In general I try to keep the inside of the cap clean and dry but I do not do anything special ie I only check it when I have the cap off for another reason. Also note this was only one occurrence. I have gotten the distributors wet on many occasions without this issue although those were typically vertical installations.
Thanks for replying and your contribution to the subject.
I am attaching a pic of inside of cap. Comments appreciated.
It appears almost as if your distributor is out 180 degrees.
I don't know if that is possible, however if you look at the arcing its as if the lower part of the rotor button is firing on the higher part of the distributor cap and vice a versa.
Maybe Tim K will chime in and verify if this scenario is even possible.
There are two pickup points or very early type magnetic triggers and you should use lower one.
Other posibility is if you got multispark ignition and it is not timed correct (I know it is little challenging to set with Countach) you could get similar results.
Third posibility is that your mechanical advance system inside distributor is stuck to other end and spark is arcing to neares point or so. Do try sligthly twist ignition pointer side to side, there should be few cm play so that you feel that retain spring, DO NOT FORCE IT, those ignition pointers are really expensive. (I have made instructions to dismatle Countach /512BB distributos to L-talk forum)
Think I first need doing as you suggest, twist the rotor slightly to check the mechanical advance.
Car was running well prior to misfire occurred.
If the mechanical advance is stuck, will cap internals look like in the above picture?
Or can it just be that timing is slightly off?
Car is a 1986 Quattrovalvole and yes, the MSD is a Multispark system.
Timing wheel is under pointer, inside distributor, if it is stuck to one end, allthough it does not move that much, timing and pointer will point towards where ever it is stuck.
But these are just my random thoughts from these symptoms, have fun!
btw, just remember; I broght some of Countach photos and instructions here to this forum.
Can someone post a picture of the Countach fuel tank(s) out of the car. More than one angle would be great.
Looking at the inside of the cap the arc marks are 60 crankshaft degrees out. The advance weights at best could only account for 20 crank degrees. I believe the distributor was set up incorrectly. Judging by the markings it appears half of its life it was set correctly and half it was incorrect. I cannot tell based on the cap if it is correct or incorrect now. I recommend verifying the setup as is now i.e. the number one cylinder goes to the number one location on the cap along with the number one cylinder on its firing stroke with magnetic trigger in the right location.
My manual says the 5000s holds 13.5 quarts of oil, I know this is not correct. Can someone tell me the official number
Any specific angle or just a pair of tanks?
Thanks Hans, Chad B had sent me photos back in he spring.
Can somebody confirm the control arm lengths such as shown in the picture?
This is for a LP400S; I think the suspension is closer/similar to a LP500S rather than a LP400?
I Hope these will help Hans. Credit to Albert's rebuild.
Very cool shots.
For the experts - have there been different paint schemes of the gas tanks over the years? The ones in an early S2 LP400S are gold-color painted.
Hope this helps. See the attached.
803 532 6257
803 798 3044
I have such a stupid question after confusing myself in an embarrassing way but I just dont want to screw this up.
This winter, I had to remove my dead battery and I ordered a new Interstate.
I would swear my prior optima red top battery, which I dumped 1 month ago, had the positive on the passenger side terminal, just like the new interstate on the pictures below.
But here is the confusion. I realize the wire that is supposed to go to the positive on the passenger side is actually connected to the car's chassis (wire with quick disconnect circled red). Are the Countach positive grounded?
If not then I am not sure what is going on and how I will handle this because the other wire that I think connects to the battery negative (yes it has some red wire to confuse me more) is not long enough to go to the positive terminal on the far passenger side. Also it appears my battery tender positive wire is connected to the chassis.
I should have taken picts or not remove the old battery until getting the new one. I dont know why I am so confused on such a simple job.
Definitely a negative ground on the Countach.
I use an Interstate also, an MT-24F and as you can tell the terminals are reversed on mine.
My postive is also on the right hand side on my QV, as you look at it, standing in front of the car.
arghh! I got an mtp34. when i bought the car it had an MT34. So the terminals are reversed on the MTP34? i asssumed if mt34 was good so would mtp34. or may be it comes with both configurations
I use a Deka 734MF ,wich i turned installed with the poles towards the back , this way the compartment looks uncluttered and clean,and the pos pole remains on the driver side, also i use a 1/2 inch stud style shoe,wich makes exelent countact and easy dissconect.
+1 for the MT-24F.
The proper/original fit for a Countach is a group 24 - a group 34 is original for the Diablo. Using interstate, for the group 24 you want the F suffix for proper/original terminal orientation. Using the group 34, you would want the R suffix, again for proper/original terminal orientation.
I got it now. There is an option for terminal location which i did not specify so of course i got the wrong one. I assumed it would be correct as this was the model i bought the car with. Thanks to all of you guys. You are the best.
I have a 19system to a PerTronix ignition system. I am looking for advice from people that have tried this on the 3.292 liter engine. Ease of installation? Cost? Effect on tachometer? Reliable? Increased performance? etc.? I have 2 distributors -- that must complicate things.
I am leaning toward PerTronix as I do not want a system that can be noticed -- I want to keep the car as nearly stock as I can and I believe the PerTronix system adds a wire but otherwise fits within the distributor cap.
One question for the group - can somebody shed some insight about the typical oil pressure that goes through the Countach hoses to the radiator and through the rest of the system?
We're looking to pressure test the entire system before putting the engine back in the car and connecting everything up.
It depends if QV or not.
LP400-LP5000S have a high pressure circuit with max 10 bar, the QV engine has a separate low pressure pump.
This is a Lp400S; so testing would have to be with a compressor if it was at that high pressure. 10 bar is ~150 psi so that sounds quite high?
Quick request for the group - is there a list of the correct hose clamps that are used on the Countach?
Any source for cv joints? The boots are 930 Porsche from what I've read.