Daytona Rebuild

No, as I said, I never had keys...locks I have, just can't use them. I assume there must be a way to create a key from the lock, or buy used complete locks with matching keys.

Carlo

 

Ok I understand now. I used to have a motorcycle with the same problem. I obtained an uncut key fob intended for use with my motorcycle. I then remove the lock mechanism and brought it along with the uncut key to a reputable locksmith. He was able to fashion a perfectly cut key from the lock and the key fob. I never had any further problems with it and it was a completely "factory" correct fix for the problem. I would suggest you do something similar. It is possible although I can imagine a daytona key is slightly more complicated than a motorcycle key.

 

Tim,
Just popped over to your thread to see how it's all going. looks great so far. whats this about a Dino? are you getting greedy!!!
Regards,
Graham Paske.

 

Tim,

Thanks for posting these photos, its really helpful to see the detail of a stripped car for those of us keeping unrestored cars going.

A small tip, the lower inner sill tube, rectangular 1.5 x 3/4", is open at the rear and exposed to spray from the rear wheel. This is a real rust trap. Cut a plug out of a chunk of rubber to close it off, yet still be able to pull out if you're concoursing.

I am extremely hesitant to invoke the originality obsessives here, but the vertical links for your rear sway bar should be satin black, not plated. These also rust out because they're open at the top, again its a good idea to plug them.

Ian

 

Tim, I've had the car 18 months and am still taking it apart!! body tub and chassis just been blasted and my metalwork guy is currently rebuilding all four wide arches and complete sills along with other anomalies follow the 246 forum for all my woes
Regards,
Graham

 

If you flood that tube with fisholene then allow to drain out and dry, it shouldn't rust. (I jacked the rear of my car as high as I could get then poured in the fish oil with a funnel. Waited a few hours, then hoisted the front and let it drain out.) Plugging the end will stop water and mud getting in, but make the plug removable so that every few years you can pull it out and repeat the process.

The sway bar connects one side of the rear suspension to the other. Its a steel bar that runs across the back of the car and is located in the chassis frame just above the upper rear wishbones. A forged link is bolted to the end (on splines) and runs horizontally rearwards, where it connects to a vertical link which runs down to the lower wishbone. (phew!) My car (14397) has this link painted, later cars have it cadmium plated (look at 16915 on the daytona registery originality page). The link is a hollow tube, open at the top and collects any water thrown off the rear tyre, thats why it should be plugged.

 

Sway bar is American for Anti Roll Bar

 

Cars beginning with D = Deusenburg



Amazing project, good luck!

Regards,

Art S.

 

Looking good tim,I have an old series landy,the chassis' get painted in a black oily concoction for protection,I can get the name of it if you want,little draining holes are important to release any standing water,as "time in contact" is the real killer..

 

waxoyl

 

There is also a product called Frame Saver that is used my frame/chassis builders to spray inside the tubes to keep it from rusting. Motorcycle and Bicycle frame builders use this as well. Also, there is a product called T-9 Bootshield that came out of the airplance industry that they use for rustproofing. I've used both with good results.

Steve

 

Definitely heresy Tim!

You are better to install a Queen Mary power steering pump and box if the standard system is too much effort. No chassis mods needed, the car can revert to original at any time. btw You loose 75% of steering feel with PAS.

Most of the "legend" of Daytona heavy steering arises from cars in poor condition. If the standard steering box is in 100% condition (can be rebuilt by ZF) and all suspension components set up correctly, with XWX tyres, the steering is not unduly heavy.

I have a smaller than stock wheel, on a 2" boss extension. After 100 miles of mountain roads, my shoulders know they've done some work, but I've happily kept pace with 355's and 360's, etc.
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You mean this stuff http://boeshield.com/index.htm

 

Also see:

http://www.jackknight.co.uk/press_release/0512_jkdpr_epas.pdf

I have never seen a Daytona with electric power steering. Would be very interested to see it.

Mark Shannon

 

Maranello Concessionaires back in the late 70's and early 80's certainly used Dynatrol. Perhaps that is what he is referring to.

Mark Shannon

www.markshannon.net