Ferrari 355 F1 Accumulator Bulb Replacement June 28, 2017 WATSON - FerrariChat Symptom: F1 system takes too long to pressurize at start up. Pressurization cycles more frequent or cycles inconsistently during normal operation. Despite a new pump motor and a confirmed good pump, my car required 11 – 18 flashes before fully pressurized from an overnight idle state. After repair the system pressurization time was consistently 4 flashes. Problem: Compromised or failed accumulator bulb. Solution: Replace the accumulator bulb. Parts: Accumulator bulb – Ricambi or others (90 BAR .035 liter capacity) (Fig #1) Union kit 14 mm threads / Buna or crush washers. (Fig #2) https://www.ricambiamerica.com/58552368-s-union-kit-for-accumulator.html ATF Fluid Tools: 5mm hex head wrench – to remove engine trim panel Strap wrench Large oil filter removal tool (with socket extension) (Fig #3) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAQVW74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Open-end wrench to install unions Process: Ensure the car has been sitting long enough to allow any F1 system pressure to be relieved. Disconnect battery Raise the car and remove the driver’s side rear wheel Remove LH rear fender liner Remove LH engine cover trim piece Place strap wrench around accumulator bulb and tighten strap so it does not move from the accumulator bulb. Place fingers of large oil filter removal tool over accumulator bulb and rubber from strap wrench. Attach a socket extension long enough to get socket driver above fender (Fig #4) Loosen and remove the bulb. Little to no fluid should escape. Install crush washer onto female section of the union and install union onto the F1 solenoid assembly and tighten. Install second crush washer on top section of female union and install male section of union and tighten Fill union completely full of ATF (or F1 fluid of your choice) Place bulb on male union and tighten. Tighten to secure using strap wrench / oil filter tool. Replace engine trim panel Replace fender panel Install wheel Lower car Turn on battery Notes: Rightfully, there is some concern about introducing air into the system during this repair. An SD computer may be necessary to bleed the system should that occur. However, I successfully did the repair without that need. Once committed to replacing the bulb I did not delay on the installation of the parts to seal the system back up. The result was a fully functional system without an SD computer bleed requirement. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I wish I had that filter wrench when I was trying to get mine off. I broke two strap wrenches trying...
I broke one and decided I needed a new tool. I snapped the strap right off at the attachment point. The filter wrench made this a breeze. Thank you for all your guidance and information. I appreciate you taking the time to call and discuss your experiences. Hopefully we took the mystery out of this one.
A generic view of how these accumulators work. I found these links interesting: Accumulator | craig-waterman.com [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMDE5v3ouN8[/ame]
Obvious from that video how these accumulators fail-- the inner bladder simply bursts when it's old. Thanks for posting that video Watson. This was my problem a few years back. Big headaches until solved by a second shop (first shop unable to figure this out, burned up a new pump attempting to diagnose this issue). Been good ever since.
Seems these accumulators don't enjoy a long life span, not supprized as these hyd systems don't get a lot of use and that's usually a reason for them to break just sitting there. My car even with a new battery (rifleddriver said a weak battery can cause excessive prime time) my car still takes about 15-18 seconds to pump up. But I'm not noticing any symptoms after it's primed, I'll have to check that.
Well, I planned to do mine today but the bulb, febi part # 01817 is apparently the wrong part. The threaded fitting is too large to fit into the union which is from Ricambi so it should be the right size. The union kit is part # 58552368-S and is labeled as union kit for accumulator bulb. Anyone have a brand/part number they can post for their bulb?
The threads on the OEM bulb / solenoid valve assy body are 14 x 1.50 fine thread. The threads on the union are also 14 x 1.50. I bought my bulb from Craig Waterman (link above). No MFG is listed, but the markings on the bulb are: MM ED 0093648B 92BAR / 0.35L 035-4315-203-441/27 B3565 01K Supposedly same as used in BMW ABS brake systems. Hope that helps.
based on the photo from Craig's site, that accumulator does appear to have wrench flats and I'd imagine the inner wheel house may need to be removed to gain access to use a wrench Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup. As in the directions posted above. Flats or not, the inner wheel housing really needs to come out.
Just a follow up. I now have a bout 1800 miles on the car after the bulb install. 350 yesterday with the Milwaukee Concourse drive and car show. The car has never run like this in the 6 years I have owed it. Proper shifts and full confidence in the system. It is fantastic. I like my F1 transmission system better than the manual gearbox 355's I have driven. Wish I had replaced the bulb earlier in the trouble-shooting process.
Here is some additional information.... I did a bit a research and came up with a P/N and ordered one to take a look at and have to check out. Now, I've not yet looked at mine to get the readings but this is 92 Bar and .35L, it's used on Selespeed F1 systems which is what our 355's are. Here is where I bought it: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=5986&sku=64966 P/N: S4P5986 OEM 71751195 Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to all input, specially from Watson, I have replaced my accumulator on a 63k mile 99 F1. I thought I'll give back as much as I could for the next fella in case this issue comes up and to confirm the issues. This is the tour de france blue car I had acquired from Georgia. Issue Wouldn't shift into any gear but in reverse. Engine running or not. Couple of paddle taps and would jump in to second or first, no higher. Had a friend try it while I lay under the vehicle and look at the actuator movements. It received signal and tried to put ii into gear but after 1 cm movement it move move out. Figured there is not enough pressure to push it in. Ordered the accumulator, replaced it this morning 80% fixed. The car goes into reverse, neutral, first and second either driving or with key on. I am able to pick up speed in second and while in motion put in it neutral and in one tap shift the car selects the appropriate gear based on speed. From here I am able to shift down through all gears. The only issue remaining. Not able to upshift from second to third and remaining gears. Otherwise, everything else functions as it should. May have to see if air got into the system or maybe reprogram at the mechanic Any other suggestions of ideas? thanks Steve
Speed sensor is toast. Edit - does it shift all gears at a standstill with engine off? It should. If not, it's another issue. Possibly actuator centering procedure needs to be done
Yes it was the accumulator with a bad balloon inside that would not let the air and oil pressure to build up evenly
Step 1 Go under the vehicle and remove the actuator boot 2. Have someone go through couple of shift while u r underneath looking at the actuator movement. If it flinches but looks like not enough pressure is being exhorted to twist and move them it's the accumulator. With a ruptured balloon inside the accumulator, it does not have enough pressure to push the oil down so it can move the actuator 3. Replaced the accumulator and reprogrammed the system Wallllllla works like magic