Ferrari 348 engine out service

Now that the clutch housing was exposed, it was time to remove it. There is a clip on the left side that has to be detached. Once it is loosed, remove the remaining bolts and nuts. One bolt that looks like it should be removed stays. It is one of the three bolts that mount the starter and it is not through the housing. Leaving this bolt on keeps the starter in place.

Remove the inspection plate on the bottom. Once the bolts and nuts are off the housing, the entire housing pulled off easily with no prying. The housing contains both the clutch, pressure plate and the flywheel.
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I placed the housing on my bench and proceed to take it apart to see what I had. Removing the starter ring gear is the first step. Once it is off, the clutch can be removed from the housing with the flywheel remaining in place.

This is a dual clutch disc unit and it will come apart with some prying. According to the records, the clutch had never been replaced. But it was time and then some. It had been releasing at the very top and had begun to slip. It was worn out. The technician has the proper alignment tool and said I could bring the new clutch to him and he would install it in the housing. I will take him up on that.
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It is a 1967 912 with an early 80's 911SC 3.0 engine.
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Here are some photos of the bellhousing and the triple seal on the shaft. Everything looks normal to me here and the throw out bearing turns easily.
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Thanks. I have most of the AC installed (it is hot and humid here in the summer). This was a California car and had all of the smog equipment in place. I have removed the air pump and now have all the parts to backdate the exhaust. Should gain about 20HP. It has some generic Recaro look alike seat but I have some period correct black seats with with white herringbone inserts on the way. Should look really good in the car.

 

Now it was time to remove the cam belt covers. There are two guides for the cam belt that are held in place at the top. I will have to adjust the clearance on them. Once I had all the covers off, I cleaned them and put them away as well. Everything looked OK to me but I am not experienced with this motor. It does have the Hill Engineering bearings.

Since I am going to replace them, I removed the AC and alternator belts. There are tensioner bolts on the bottom of each of these which adjust the tension. Now I need to order some parts. While I wait for them to come, I will be cleaning the motor and the engine bay. That will keep me busy for a few days. We are having nasty, rainy, cold weather today so it was a perfect day to be in the garage.
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Just curious. How does the car sound with test pipes replacing the cats?

 

Don't see any new PM's.

 

Cleaning day today. I wiped down the engine and rear suspension. I also cleaned up the LF wheel well. That was enough cleaning for today. Not concours quality but better that it was.
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Ordered!!

 

My clutch arrived yesterday. As per his promise, Tom, the technician at the independent dealership where I bought my car, assembled the clutch for me today. While I had disassembled the clutch, I did nothing with the flywheel as I wanted him to see it in its original state. He declared it to be OK and used a bristle disc to clean up the surface. The factory alignment tool was then inserted to align the clutch discs. You will notice that this tool extends down into the flywheel to make sure the clutch is properly aligned. According to Tom, some of the alignment tools do not have the smaller parts at the bottom that inserts into the flywheel. Maybe that is why this tool cost him $700!!!!

He then looked for the heavy side of the flywheel indicated by the balancing holes drilled during the manufacturing process. The clutch disc that faces the flywheel had an "H" for heavy on it and is placed with that side on the heavy side of the flywheel. There is a spacer ring installed next that has a paint mark on it which indicates the heavy side. This is placed opposite the heavy side of the flywheel. The other clutch disc also has an "H" on it with this side placed opposite the heavy side of the flywheel.

The intermediate plate is than fitted with the paint marks matching the spacer ring. There are shims that come with the clutch package. The thickness of these shims is determined at the factory. These three shims must be located between the intermediate plate and the pressure plate. The pressure plate is now fitted again with the paint marks matching the spacer ring and the intermediate plate. Finally, the starter ring gear is laid on top of the pressure plate.

Now the bolts that hold the ring gear are sequentially slowly tightened to put the proper spring pressure on the plate. When new the springs may hold up the pressure plate enough that the factory bolts will not be long enough to engage the threads. Tom's solution was three longer bolts used to begin the tightening process. Once these bolts have drawn down the pressure plate enough so that the stock bolts can be threaded, the longer bolts are removed and replaced with the original factory bolts. I forgot to ask him what the torque measurement was for the bolts. I did see 18.5 on his digital torque wrench but not sure if that was inch pounds or foot pounds.

And it is now ready to go back into the car. Many thanks to Tom for taking the time to make sure the clutch was properly put back together. He also shared with me the tool he uses to hold the lower pulley when it is torqued to 150ft lbs. And he showed me how to use the Staeger belt tensioner tool for the cam belt. My son recently purchased a Porsche 944 for his son so we decided to share the cost of this tool as he will need it for the 944 when he replaced the cam belt.. It is on the way.
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The exhaust heat shields needed some attention. There is a company called Kool Mat in Mooresville, NC that sells lots of heat insulation products to NASCAR, NASA, etc. I wanted to paint the heat shields with a high temp paint. Since I have done business with Kool Mat before, I asked her what she would recommend for a high temp paint. This paint is the one she uses when they stencil their logo on their parts.

I mocked up the tool for holding the lower pulley while the bolt is being torqued to 150ft lbs. It is similar to the Ferrari tool I saw at the dealership where I bought my car. One difference is that I made it so the handle was leaning slightly towards the motor so it would rest on the chassis mount. My son welded it this morning and I painted it later. Planning on using it tomorrow morning.
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Is there anything that cannot be done with duct tape???

 

Yesterday I removed the clutch release bearing by removing the retaining bracket. It then pulled of fairly easily. The new clutch release bearing is made by Hill Engineering. I lubricated the seals and tried to install it. It would go on so far and then seem to require quite a bit of force. I had some instructions for installing it and noticed that the guy was also replacing the stock flange with an Hill flange. Before I did something stupid, I decided to hold off on this until I can talk with Daniel at Ricambi.

Early this morning I removed the snap ring on the transmission shaft and removed the triple seals. My new Ferrari technician friend showed me how he used a cut up Coke can to help slide the new seals on. After some trial and error, and plenty of lubricant, I soon had the triple seals in place. They are loose after you install them. Tomorrow I will use another of the tech's methods buy wrapping the seals in some thin plastic and then using a hose clamp to make the seals fit in their slots. Didn't have time to look for the proper piece of plastic yet.
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My son and one of his buddies, Nick, came over this morning to help. They both work at Toyota Racing Development where Nick is a fabricator (with an engineering degree!!) and Matt is in charge of tire testing for all of the Toyota NASCAR teams. Nick did the major repair on the frame on the '64 Corvette that I recently restored. His welds were a thing of beauty, especially compared to the factory Corvette welds. He mainly wanted to check out the motor and the car.

Yesterday I set the motor at TDC and made sure all of the timing marks lined up. I turned the motor while holding my hand over the hole with the number 1 spark plug removed to feel the compression build up. Once I knew I was in the compression cyle, I inserted a wood dowel and marked the highest point. I then moved it one way and then another to make sure I had stopped at the highest point.

The notches on the cam gears were very noticeable. The instructions I followed mentioned laying a straight edge on the valve cover ridges which should then line up with the timing marks. They did. The hole punch on the main pulley also lined up as it should. However, since this is critical, I wanted my son to check out my handiwork to make sure I had done it correctly...and he did.

The factory red marks on the cam gears were gone so we re-applied them. I also bought some yellow paint and touched up the notches so they were more noticeable. We inserted my new flywheel tool and fired up the impact wrench. I have a good one and the flywheel bolt was soon out. We then used a pulley puller to remove the pulley. We double checked to make sure everything still lined up. I had also wedged wood shims between the two cam gears.

Next up was loosening the tensioner bolt and soon the belt was off. There had been no record of the car having the water pump replaced. For peace of mind, I had decided to replace it. First the tensioner had to be removed which required removing the bracket as well. Then the left (as you face the motor) rear cam cover had to be removed. Now the water pump nuts and bolts could come out. The pump and the housing behind it came out together after we undid the green water hose connection under the intake.

We took the pump and housing to the bench and had a heck of a time removing the pump from the housing. There are two locating pins on the housing with enough corrosion to bind the pump to the housing. Eventually enough persuasion was applied and they were separated. And that is where the morning ended as I had forgotten to order the pump gasket and the "o" ring for the housing. Not all bad as this will give me the opportunity to dome some cleaning of the area under the intake as well as the front of the motor where the antifreeze soaked it upon removing the pump.

We did notice some crud in the antifreeze at the water pump as seen in the last photo below. We had not seen this material when draining the system. Any ideas of why this would be there?
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