Can anyone supply the door pocket metal strip with the center metal doubling or union piece? Thanks
My supplier is running slow, but I hope to have correctly shaped wire for the trim before much longer.
Hi guys. If it can be useful I can share the little experience I had with my 230 SL to reproduce some details. I prepared a summary of the procedure I used (attached picture) . If you want to know more about the procedure Google 'Lost-wax casting'. The difficult thing isn't the procedure to make models or moulds, but to find someone that wants to dedicate to you the time that's necessary to do the pieces you need. If the pieces have little dimensions you can ask to a dental technician (not a Dentist, a dental technician) to make the job. But if the piece is as long as the Dino's metal strip, their containers for refractory cement (I'm not sure that this word is correct in English) are too little to make the piece and so it's necessary to find a foundry. Some pieces you see in the picture were made in cobalt chrome alloy , other ones are in aluminum (aluminum can be chromed) The blue silicone is dense , while the yellow one is more flowable , for higher precision of the details. Even the threads can be reproduced, as you can see. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I hope to be able to explain what could be done. - If someone has the original pieces and is able to make a good mould with silicone (remember that it must be opened to be able to make at least two models), he has only to fill the mould with sublimable resin and to give it to the foundry (speak with them before; they could have other materials suitable for the purpose). In my previous picture the red material is the sublimable resin and it behaves in the same manner as the wax, that is it passes from the solid state to the gaseous state when brought to high temperature. I should use the resin because it's stronger to be handled in comparison with the wax. - if no original piece is available, the strip can be made in 3 pieces : the central little piece can be made with wax by a goldsmith or a dental technician, with pictures as a model. The two right and left halves can be obtained beginning to fill the groove with the sublimable material you choose (wax , resin or other ) . In any case it's better to brush the groove with a thin layer of oil to facilitate the detachment of the material. If you use the resin remember that it is initialy fluid, it has a working time of about 1 minute and it becomes a solid polimer in 5-10 minutes ; be careful because when it polymerizes it gets hot and this could damage the plastic of the pocket. When it's warming up try to maintain it fresh with water. When you have the three pieces ready in wax or sublimable resin , refine them and then bring them to the foundry. You can later decide if you want to chrome it or treat it in another way. That's all. It's not difficult.
Just received two new door pockets from Italy (TASCA PORTAOGGETTI Fiat 500L). They are as perfect as it gets. Scratch free with details as described above. Shipping was a bit pricey but they arrived to Los Angeles in a week and were very reasonably priced. If anyone has questions please feel free to contact me @ 310 266-3263. Bradley
The door pocket metal strip looks easy enough with off the shelf stainless steel ribbon material. Center joining section looks doable as well especially for someone handy with a Dremel. Is the center section loose or are there prongs embedded in the plastic pocket?
They look good and are the closest I have seen to the dino door pockets. Does the ribbing go vertical? The dino ribbing is Horizontal. The metal strip should be very easy to replicate.
The metal strip and center piece is a very doable for the group. Replicating the door pocket on the other hand in sufficient numbers to keep price down is a stretch.
Can anyone provide pictures of the inside of a door pocket adjacent to the metal center piece? Pretty sure these can be inexpensively stamped in small quantities.
Greetings All, I received mine, too; they look just like Flavio's. The silver band on one of my originals has popped off. I'll shoot a few pics of it and the lnside of the old and new pockets & post later today. Cheers, Coop
Hi Guys, 'sorry for the delay. I put the delicate spring steel band/strip in a safe place...so safe that I can't find it. It will turn up. In the meantime, here are a few, hopefully helpful, shots. I'll have to post them one at a time; they may be too large (I don't know how to compress 'em) for multiple attachments...I'm only able to do one per post. At any rate, you will get the idea. This first is the center hole on the outside of the pocket. Coop Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is the inside, showing the precision factory countersink/relief along the lip. The star & numbers embossed on this original are absent on he repros. I'll take & post pics of assembled panel w/band so you can see the attachment method. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Look closely at the left end of the pocket. You can see the small hole in the channel about 8mm in from the edge. If memory serves, there is an equally small dowel pin that is attached to the band and locates it. The band is then bent around the edge to hold it in place. The same process appears at the other end. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's the other original pocket, with band attached...close-up to follow. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Expand this & previous view to get a better look at the detail of the center clip. I'll take a couple of pics of the inside of this pocket to show how it is affixed. Cheers, Coop Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice. Do the prongs on the back of the center piece go all the way through the pocket and fold over to retain the strip?
Hi Bradley, I think that you are correct. However, it could be a threaded stud with a nut. I just don't remember. So, I will check it out & send a pictorial answer! Coop
OK, Bradley, you hit the nail on the head! As you can see in the mirror, flat tabs on the centerpiece (that slips over the one-piece spring-steel band) are fed through the hole in the pocket and splayed over...and then some: A dollop of solder between the tabs ensures the grip. Expand the picture a bit for a better look. You can see the top of the clip on the outside of the pocket. Refer to pk246gt, Post #12, for a great close-up of the front side of the band & clip. Cheers, Coop Image Unavailable, Please Login
Do the tabs run through a single hole and then splay up and down before solder is added? What is the minus looking sign on the solder in your mirror photo?
bradley, Here is another picture. Yes, the tabs go through the the single hole and no, they are splayed horizontally. I see why you ask: Since the clip wraps around the band vertically you would think that the flat tabs would be bent up and down. It is possible that the tabs were given a quarter turn to tighten the clip on the band, either before or after inserting through the hole in the pocket, then bent flat. That's a WAG on my part. The 'minus sign' may be the tiny gap/shadow between the two tabs that was clocked at an angle when they were twisted. Hmmm, perhaps no solder. Upon closer look (expand it a bit), the tabs look like they were slightly distorted when flattened. Hey, use your imagination...I certainly am! I will intensify my search for the estranged band and clip; once found, a picture will truly be worth a thousand words! Freeman, That's a good analogy! Keep the Faith, Coop Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is it possible; that the two horizontal strips terminate in the center hole forming the foldover as seen and the cover clip folds over the strips before entering the hole?
