LP400 S3 - 1121374 - Nut and Bolt Restoration

Note the bolts are not the original-type used.

These wheels should be finished with Campagnolo stickers, not on the lip of the rim as most people mistakenly apply, but on the outer dish of the wheel, opposite from the wheel's air-valve stem.

 

You're welcome.

I hope the price you paid has not put the restoration in jeopardy!

Seriously, I'm amazed they were not much more.

 

I haven't re-done mine but Re-did the spare wheel and found that there is magnesium pitting behind the paint.

Maybe Joe can clarify - it looks like the wheels were not perfect from the factory and some had quite a raw finish. Subsequent owners refinished the wheels with filler to make for a smooth finish before silver paint.

However, once recovering the wheel these factory 'defects' appear and now the question is whether to leave as it came from the factory OR refinish smooth again before paint?

In my case I chose to leave the spare with the 'raw' finish but correctly silver painted.
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Most likely.

I'd agree what's most important is getting the grey-silver color right.

 

It seems like a lot of small items, but soon that list will all be crossed off!

 

Joe, are these the correct bolts? The heads seem a little long compared to the ones I have and which I believe are original to the S2 I have but the shape is the same.

Should these be plated or painted to match the wheels?
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Joe, are you sure about this? Here's a picture of my originals, never refinished (one owner car).
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I think those are correct.

See the image below of a restored car with the correct bolts, they should be left unpolished or un-plated if you want to replicate the original look.
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Yes, sure about that, here is an image below that shows positioning of the Campagnolo sticker on a S2 or S3 smooth-dish wheeled car. I'll try and dig up a better image, there is one in the Pasini book showing a ME destined car at new with correct sticker placement.

Even in the early days, many of these stickers were replaced or even simply removed, as they started to peel in reaction to the wheel finish.
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Remember guys we are talking about Italian manufacturing ... ie. probably wherever Lugi felt like on that day
Pete

 

Wonderful thread. These refurbished carb pics are really something.
Best of luck with your project and keep the pics coming.

 

This is true.

 

Beautiful , my favorit carb set up, these 2valve engines are it when it comes to sex appeäl and looks,probably why i am not to exited reg the dd verßus fi, wich kinda looks more industrial/macho with the casted fi induction manifolds, good transitional blend from old to new, being the injection is very mechanical, think 911 70s 80s ,its THE perfect match for the 4valve engine, mho all good keep the detailed pictures of your s3 coming.

 

Here's a wheel with the inner location. I can't say they were all in this location for sure.
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Bolt head is too long. The original is shorter and more dome shaped on the top.

 

Chris, will you renew all the hoses?

 

Judging by the referenced photo I do not think it is correct to say that the bolts should be left un-plated or un-polished. I suspect you were referring that the bolts should not have a chrome like high reflective finish and from the photo I would agree. The bolts in the image appear to be clear cadmium or clear zinc plated which would result in their bright silver look but not high polish or chrome like the wheel bolts that are normally found on 1970's Ferrari's.

If you look at the bolts they match the finish on the brake calipers that traditionally have a cadmium or zinc plating on them yet have a different sheen to the wheel which of course is painted silver. These details drive you nuts when doing a restoration but when they are all put together it makes all of the difference. I recently finished a Dino restoration and just getting the wheel colour right took over 100 different paint mixes and spray outs before it was perfect. Multiply that by most of the parts of the car and you end up spending hours by the thousands.

 

That's exactly what I meant to say.

 

Imo the bolts are matt zinc plated. You can make them "matt" if the surface is slightly blasted.

 

For restoring a points and coil setup, use Bosch 0 221 119 030 coils to replace the original Marelli coils. With those coils you can reuse the original Marelli Resistor to make it look original. The Bosch coils are silver (aluminium), so would need some treatment to look like the plated Marelli coils. Install NGK BPR8EIX spark plugs with this setup for best results.

For an original AEC104 setup (not sure the LP400 was ever delivered with one) you can deploy an MSD6AL-2 setup, which can also be hidden in an original AEC104 box.
Here is the wiring setup:
http://www.dinoplex.org/PDF/Wiring_MSD6AL2_for_AEC104.pdf

Good luck,
Adrian

 

Can you advise on how you can get the silver aluminium Bosh coil to turn the plated yellow color? I can tell you that trying to plate them as a sealed coil is not the answer unfortunately.

I know eastwood paints make a 3-stage 'paint' that is trying to emulate the gold plated look but I'm not seeing great reviews for it.