Most powerful LED bulbs

Discussion in '308/328' started by magnum, Nov 3, 2013.

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  1. magnum

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    #1 magnum, Nov 3, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    For all people interested on the led upgrade.

    I've just found new bulbs with new chips from Osram and Samsung (5630 and 2323) that are the most powerful on the market. Incredible!!!! These chips are better than the 5050, the most powerful until now...

    We're talking about 700 lumens up to 12-15W!!!!

    You can check it out on Ebay -no affiliation at all-:

    T10 2825 White Samsung Chip SMD LED Error Free High Power Parking Lights Bulbs | eBay

    700 Lumen 2X OSRAM White 4 LED 12W SMD Canbus Error Free T10 194 168 W5W Bulb | eBay

    You can do a search with "Samsung 5630" or "Samsung 2323".

    From another source I've found another 1157 led bulb -brake tail light- with Osram chips that's definitively the replacement of the standard incandescent bulb. Has more power and light spread than a normal incandescent bulb.

    Just to let you know my last led news

    P.D.: Take note on that Dr. Kananga!!!
    $(KGrHqJHJBQFHmbMIkUzBS!QclumEQ~~60_57.jpg
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    688393911_o.jpg
    LED CHIPS COMPARISON.jpg
    $(KGrHqJ,!lgFHPLvUVbwBR-PIMoEkQ~~60_57.jpg
    sku_194970_1.jpg
     
  2. The Kook Abides

    The Kook Abides F1 Rookie
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    Antonio,
    Is the 5630 the correct part for the GT4 tail light and turn signal?
     
  3. Dr Kananga

    Dr Kananga Formula 3
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    On order, since I am STILL trying to source a correct LED for the tach and speedo.
    Getting a TON of dead-spots.
     
  4. magnum

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    Hi.

    5630 is the led chip type. You must check wich socket type you need -BA9S, T5, T10, 1156, etc-. So we aren't talking about original parts number reference.
    Which lamp do you want to change?
     
  5. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff Formula 3
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    Good day All,

    Although this is not directly related to LED bulbs, here is an article where BMW is experimenting with using Lasers for headlamps...

    BMW Laser Headlights Slice Through the Dark - IEEE Spectrum

    I am pretty sure LEDs are set for the peripheral lights, but for head lamps this technology looks to be gaining some steam... however, I would be curious as to the long term reliability effects (i.e. phosphor coating, beam focusing, etc) compared to simply using lenses with LEDs...

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  6. magnum

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    Hi Sam.

    Well, in fact, the led light is like a laser... Uses the same basics to work: semiconductors. The difference is that the laser light can be focused in a very tiny point, with an angle of only 0,2º degrees. Search for led laser and you will find the answers -very complicated for me to explain it correctly-.
     
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  8. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff Formula 3
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    Good day Antonio,

    No need to explain, as I have a complete understanding of these technologies. My only point was to provide some additional information on a related subject.

    On a related note...since I have not examined any of the LED Automotive offerings, can you tell me if any or all of these Auto LED offerings have any specific electronics (other than simple resistors) for driving the LEDs? You seem to be up to speed on these devices and I thought you might know. I only ask, as I have been designing LED illuminaries (for Commercial lighting) for some time now and I use some specialized control electronics (i.e. transient voltage protection, current regulation, temperature fold-back compensation, etc) that I do not see (from the pictures) within the Auto LED devices.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  9. magnum

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    Hello again Sam.

    As far as I can see, these bulbs are very simple. They have electronics to control and change the polarity, if necessary, and to avoid CAN-Bus related problems. Nothing more. They don't have any voltage or hight temp protection. Very simple.

    I will use it only on indicators and tail lights but never on the headlights -not road legal-.

    Cheers
     
  10. samsaprunoff

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    Good day Antonio,

    Thank you for the the additional info! Given your comments, it would seem that these LED replacements are simply "driven"... For non-polarized (mechanical) applications they would install a diode bridge to address polarity issues... and for CAN Bus, my guess is that they would simply install a shunt resistor so the driving electronics sense a load when the LED is off (i.e. burnt out bulb detection).

    As for current regulation, transient protection, and heat issues... perhaps the LED bulb manufacturers feel that the intended use is relatively constant throughout the available vehicles and designed their driving electronics accordingly? The other concern I have is that some vendors may use a lower rated LED and then over-drive it (i.e. drive more current through it) to get high lumen output... the result is reduced life of the LED, but also heat related issues (i.e. melting of the surrounding lenses, holders, etc), or possibly a fire. In the commercial lighting side, I see this all the time and in some cases it is done by very notable and mainstream manufacturers. Given my experience I would not assume all vendors are manufacturing the same quality product... thus if you find a good vendor/product stick with it as opposed to finding another one claiming to be of equal quality (it may be, but you would need to conform). Secondly, it may be prudent to measure the heat generated by the LED lamps to ensure that they are not running too hot... if they are then they are either over driven, poorly designed, or perhaps an inferior LED device. The price of the LED bulb is cheap, but having to replace a lens, housing, etc is not. Ideally if one could find out the LED manufacturer and part number, one could check the specs and then verify that the bulb manufacturer is operating the LED within them. Sadly, this would take a fair amount of work, unless the Bulb manufacturer provided this info.

    It is too bad that these days the customer has to do so much due diligence on products... there was a time where well designed products was the standard, whereas, now it seems that the standard is simply to maximize profits.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  11. magnum

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    Thanks for the good advice Sam.

    I will keep it on mind. And you're right because some led become very hot -well, the small black chips of the electronics- so they're overdriven for sure. I'm testing some new Samsung led chips, and they seem to be OK, as the heat emitted is very reasonable.

    Cheers
     
  12. AZDoug

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    Off topic, but i bought some infrared laser LEDs and with the help on an EE friend, made some mounting attachments, and a power source to mount these to the front of my 4X4 brush guard.

    At night, with night vision goggles you can drive around with no visible headlights on (off road), and see everything bright as day, but with more definition, than headlights provide.

    You just have to be careful to turn them off, as you can't see them. The circuit he made turns them off everytime the truck is turned off, and have to be manually turned back on again.

    I suppose you could mount these unobtrusively under the bumper of your fcar, but you would look kind of stupid in the car wearing night vision, and being on the road, well, the police probably wouldn't understand.

    Doug
     
  13. samsaprunoff

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    Good day Antonio,

    It is an indicator that something is amiss if any component is too hot to touch... however it is only an indicator, as the device could be used within spec...The only sure way to know is to compare the measured current and voltage with the LED and support components specs. Secondly, some components can and will produce heat, as this would be dependent upon the current going through it and the voltage difference across it. (Power = Voltage Difference X Current). Consequently these components need to be sized correctly to ensure that their power dissipation is not an issue. Given that most of these LED bulbs are used in some sort of a housing there will be very little air flow surrounding the LED and support components... and thus could present a problem. Also, given the housing is a fixed size, some manufacturers may use under sized components in order to get the whole assembly to fit in the target housing. This is one of the reasons why line voltage LED and CFL light bulbs tend to fail prematurely... as the whole electronic portion (let's call it a ballast) has to fit in the Edison bulb base (which is pretty tiny) and has minimal air flow surrounding it.

    Anyway, enough said... my point was to present some additional info for others to consider and/or be aware of. Hopefully I have not bored everyone too terribly much!

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
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  15. robertgarven

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    I am pretty happy with the dismal original 70's lighting, as long as they are working! HAAA! :p
     
  16. magnum

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    Very, very interesting Doug. Tanks for sharing.

    Cheers
     
  17. The Kook Abides

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    #15 The Kook Abides, Nov 16, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This pic is the style LED replacement bulb that works best for brake/night running bulb.
    It fills the entire lens area and gives a much brighter display. It also draws less power. #1157 R

    I bought mine at PepBoys for 19.99 for a pack of two. They come in red,white, and amber.

    The single contact 1156 is what is used for turn indicators.
    94503_766f0a457f9b9b57241827f623e26f4dc1e9d6b9_original_x_323_1374919072.jpg
     
  18. singletrack

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    I agree. After taking mine apart and cleaning the glass on both sides, the change is dramatic. They actually look excellent. I have two to go still...
     
  19. magnum

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    Not enough powerful... Trust me. I've tested this one in white, amber and red, and now they are sitting in a box on my garage... The new chips from Samsung and Osram are much, much powerful...
     
  20. The Kook Abides

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    Thanks for the recommendation. I just ordered the Samsung bulbs.
     
  21. The Kook Abides

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    #19 The Kook Abides, Nov 24, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2013
    As Antonio said, the Samsung bulbs performed better in every situation with one exception.

    The Samsung 1157 bulb did not illuminate the rear lens area as completely when driving lights were on. This is the brake/driving bulb in the back of my GT4. When the brakes were applied it lit up like crazy, but not at non braking situations. The bulb pictured in my previous post did a better job of filling the lens in this situation. It was more than adequate when the brakes were applied, so I left it in this one area. All of the turn indicators and the front white driving lights (1156 bulb) worked much better with the Samsung bulbs.

    I did replace the turn signal relay with a new electronic one that compensates for different electrical loads. The flashers were going to fast with the stock Bosch relay. The turn indicators blink much more accurately now.

    Thanks, Antonio!

    -Pat
     
  22. magnum

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    #20 magnum, Nov 26, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I've just received the new 1157 brake led bulb with the Osram chip. I've installed it to start testing. The light spread is very good, powerful than the incandescent bulb -on normal and on braking mode-. The brand declares 15W. Let's see how it performs. I will post some photos.

    Also I've installed the T10 led bulbs on the license plate with the T10/BA9 converter. Great light spread and more powerful than the standard bulb. A good improvement.
    T10 TO 1156 SOCKET.jpg
    LED BULB 1157 RED 15W.jpg
    LED BULB 1157 RED 15W b.jpg
     
  23. vaccarella

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    Do you think these are powerful enough for a rear fog lamp? It's a regulation here on post 4/80 cars and I'm thinking of making something more discreet than the usual rectangular bolt ons.
     
  24. magnum

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    Hi Paul.

    This led bulb is as powerful as a brake light. I think that the rear fog lights are brighter than a brake light, but you can try it.
    But remember that the led bulbs must use the same reflector than a standard incandescent bulb. The led bulb in itself is very bright, but needs the reflector to spread the light properly.
     

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