Weird patterns on the flywheel. Can anyone tell me what would cause this? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not knowing how to drive a manual properly! It's heat-checking and is caused by excessively slipping the clutch. This can be ground off at any competent tranny shop, but make sure they take just enough material off. It'd be a good idea afterwards to get the thing magnafluxed to check for any micro cracks that may have developed from that heat-checking.
If you will check to see if the small inspection plate on the top of the BH, I bet it is missing, or was at one time. Those chattered burn spots are likely caused by drops of oil, which drips from the filter whitch is directly above. Last year when I did my clutch, mine looked the same. I just made a new cover and all was good. Klatu
Looks like someone ran over a curb at some point and damaged the frame ahead of the front suspension pick up points. Not a structural integrity issue but prevents the front valance from mounting properly. Anyone got a spare front frame they wish to sell? If not body shop will just fabricate the damaged pieces. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So far the following has been done: Radiator and fans removed Brake booster and master cylinder removed Brake calipers/hoses removed Hubs removed Suspension removed Coolant pipes removed Blower fans removed Parking brake lines removed Steering rack removed All to be either rebuilt or replaced. Hardware has been sent off for replating Main body pan still to come off and much more scraping of oily gunk and lots of cleaning. Once that is complete the surface rust on the chassis tubes can be cleaned up before all will be painted. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Frame has been repaired. Underside now ready for power washing and then paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fiberglass tub in underneath belly pan is in pretty good shape. Bought some lightweight Dynamat to add some soundproofing to floor panels. Pedal box was rebuilt while all was accessible. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Suspension components all pretty and ready to go back on the car. A-arms powder coated, Energy Suspension bushings and new ball joints. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Koni's are stamped 1982, seemed to be operating OK so just repainted and rebutted. Steering rack rebuilt and new bushings. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Front end and engine bay now painted... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Suspension reassembly in progress. Pretty calipers by PMB Performance. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine block cleaned up nicely except for the staining around the cylinder liner lip. Any suggestions on how to clean this up? Tried Simple Green with an acrylic scouring pad, mineral spirits and lacquer thinner without success. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow where did three years go! Engine is getting close now. Adjustable cam gears are those from Dinoparts. Expensive but nicely finished although we replaced the small Allen bolts with fractionally longer bolts as they barely had enough threads for adequate peace of mind. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Block cleaned up nicely after much elbow grease. Now makes the transaxle look unloved. Am removing the air pump and associated tubing so plugged the ports in the heads. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My machinist did a nice job safety wiring the bolts on the oil pump pick up. Wish I had his skills. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sump had the windage door modification already done which is nice. Bit of a pain installing the sump baffles. Had the bottom sump cover in place with Nylocks and sealant then found the sump baffles would not go in with the bottom cover installed so had to back track. Block is now ready to mount to the transaxle.
Thinking about trying to modify a standard engine test stand so I can at least run the engine at idle to check for leaks etc. Anyone done this? One on CL local to me for $750 which may be cheap compared to having to remove and install the engine again.
I suggest some good retaining compound for the cam pulley between the toothed section and the flange. I bought some Loctite 648 for just that. What is the windage door mod? I'm almost there so don't want to miss anything. Cheers derek
My description may not be anatomically correct but here is what I was referring to. The thread I found the picture on referred to it as an anti-surge baffle. Image Unavailable, Please Login