Andrew, I just checked on #01100... rivets original, so the change to rivets must have been during late L-series production....
...rivets at # 746 (original - with a probability bordering on certainty) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I can also only find traces after rivets on my back on #0504, maybe there were some inconsistency on the assembly line....today we use screws, tomorrow we use rivets? Regards Peter
Time for a milestone update: The engine and various auxiliary equipment including exhaust system, heat shields, airbox etc are finally finished. Now it's time for less interesting stuff such as fiberglass repair, chassis work and more painting. Here is a few shots of the assembled engine, please feel free to fire away with any comments, that's how I learn. Regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I noticed that I'm missing a spring on the clutch lever fork (See #18 on the TAV drawing below). I have observed a hole in the fork arm that I assume one end of the springs goes into but where do the other end of the spring attach? Regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Peter, I don't think that spring was ever installed on the L-series, just an error in the manual probably. It was taken out in the M-series manual.
It's time for a short update on the hardware front. The chassis is of for blasting and metal work, so there is plenty of time to prepare some of the auxiliary components. I reassembled the driveshaft re-using the shafts and two of the bearings that were in immaculate condition. Had to color the new bearings with a gun browning chemical to make them look darkish like the original bearings: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Cleaning the instruments is not an easy task. I had some experience from my 308, but it is still a job I don't fancy that much. The smaller instruments are the more difficult to disassemble due to the tighter chrome rings and patience and procedures are the trick. Using one of the old differential bearings as a support turned out quite handy: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I bought 4 new rear lamps from SF but they were not even close to the original so I decided to repair the original ones. I cut the old lamps open with a dremel and got the parabola re-chromed. Polishing all the plastic turned out with great result and finally the lamp unit's were glued together again with epoxy: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was lucky to find a set of NOS front lamps last year. Unfortunately the back side was not the correct configuration so I had to change the lamp support brackets. I bought a couple of old donor lamps on a scrap yard for 10$ and managed to transfer the correct lamp support fittings: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Time flies and winter weather is upcoming. That means more indoor activity and hopefully some good progress in the workshop. I've got the chassis and body back from the blaster and there were no big surprises. A few holes here and there in the sheet plates, but the chassis frame was very intact except from the bottom part of the center frame profile that was slightly corroded in the bottom due to being soaked in water wet Rockwool since the car left the factory. Regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I gave up on the body repair company a couple of weeks ago.....The cost and time estimates kept increasing and I got worried when I learned that the expert that previous fixed the doors on my 308 had just left for retirement. Based on this I decided to do the work myself. That meant I could justify shopping new tools for my garage: Mig, tig and Gas & Oxy welders are now updated...Also bought various hand tools that I always dreamed about and found a nice used sheet metal bender for small money. I've already started the body work practicing on the battery holder before fixing the main frame profile and starting production of sheet metal parts. All the straight sheet metal parts such as the inner and outer panels are made by a local cut and bend company, I'm doing a few of the more complex parts myself and Radford panel factory are making a few for me as well. Best regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes I agree it could be MUCH worse. The downside is that I need to redo all the repair work done some 17 years ago, not due to corrosion, but due the quality; All sheet metal joints are made with overlays resulting in a potential water trap and it doesn't look good when the lack, filler and tin is removed. Also the repaired joints are MIG welded in a rather rough way. I plan to run all the sheet metal together using TIG.
Long time gone since last update mostly due to slow going body work....I now and then spice up the boring welding and metal forming job with some of the more funny stuff such as assembling the grill after overhaul. Got the grill back from anodizing the other day and I'm really pleased with the result. One of the previous owners had it glass blasted and that didn't look quite right and it was prone to attract dirt. I took it apart and straightened all the parts, then gave it a thorough polishing using first rather course sandpaper, then finer grit 400 paper (spend a whole day). Finally I had it anodized in 25 my thick natural aluminum color. I assembled the grill with standard aluminum pop rivets and it still fits...-. By the way I did the same treatment to the original hand made and numbered door steps. I had new steps produced in anodized aluminum, but they look much too nice and straight, so I plan to re-use the old ones. Regards Peter Before and after pics: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I ordered several repair panels in UK month ago and they finally showed up.....what a disappointment, not one of them fitted correctly and they were in practical terms useless. So I ended up making all the panels myself. Actual I'm happy with that because hereby I could save more of the original car. Below is the repair I made on one of the rear fenders: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And here the rear bowls are fabricated.......quite a job to fabricate these two round panels out of a flat piece of steel. I send my thoughts to the smart guy that invented the english wheel! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Take your time to find original parts to correct any issues as they are minor. Soon you'll be worrying about hose clamps Andrew[/QUOTE] I find it a bit amusing that Andrew wrote this some 2-1/2 years ago...Back then I didn't think much about the comment regarding the hose clamps....now it's a major issue. Much inspired by Matthias I'm now fabricating a complete set of Angst replica clamps for the car...more pictures to follow when I have drilled 150 holes and all the parts have been treated with zinc. Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
... and I'm still looking for the 41mm angst clamps for the radiator!!! BTW, I have NOS the large angst for the hose from the oil vapor separator to the sump if you need them....
It must be time for some technical input to the Dino 246 section, so here is a short pre-summer update from Denmark. I have spent the last few weeks fixing the doors on my Dino. One door needed a complete rebuild due to earlier times low quality repair job while the other needed a strip down of paint and a new bottom. Below is few pictures of the doors before I started out: Regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
First thing to do was to install new oversize hinge pins in order to have a good reference point for fitting and adjusting the doors after repair. I used the SF 1 mm oversized pins, their 10 mm reamer and a 9.8 mm drill. I also fabricated a hinge adjustment tool to avoid putting too much force on the doors should it become neccessary to slightly bend the hinges. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
