Help with Motive Power Bleeder

I'm no expert on 360s but I have run at the track with quite a few and it's my understanding that you can't bleed the system without Ferrari's special electronic tool?

Do some searching in this section and I bet you'll find more about this.

 

Do yourself a favor, throw that thing out, which I did, and use Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder Best service investment you can make.

 

I looked at a Motive Power Bleeder as well, but I went down this path as well,with the Speed Bleeders.

They are cheap and easy. NTTAWWT

 

I do not have a 360. I have a 550. It trickles with the Motive just like yours. There isn't a gallon of fluid in the system. So what if it takes 60 seconds instead of 30 seconds to flush each caliper? I like to use alternating colors to make it really easy to tell when I'm done. The advantage of the Motive is that you are less likely to run out of fluid in the reservoir and inject air into the lines accidentally. Some say that the ignition should be on. I haven't found that necessary.

 

I have bled my 360 at all points with the motive power bleeder with no problem. This includes the clutch, and both points at the master cylinder. 15psi seems to be fine - but much lower slows things down. As long as I pump up to 15psi before a pair of bleeders, it seems to flow ok. Its certainly not gushing out - and doing a full fluid change takes a few minutes at each corner. Only thing you need the electronic tool for is flushing the ABS module, which purportedly holds a tiny amount of fluid. I also don't have the engine running. I change or bleed frequent enough that I don't need to worry about that (and I doubt many service people actually go through that step). I'm guessing you have some build up in the system, or at the caliper, that is slowing things down a bit more. I think you can run up to 20psi on the motive if memory serves...

 

That's the problem with the Motive power bleeder and all those pump devices, they don't generate enough suction, and you end up pumping the brakes anyway.

 

I had same problem with the Motive, it was not for a 360, but could not pump up enough without it lossing the 15 psi too quickly. Turned out the unit was missing the gasket in the cap that attaches to the master cylinder. Motive sold me a gasket and its been fine.

I do not like putting the fluid in the canister, I prefer to add fresh fluid directly into the master cylinder. For me was less of a mess with results. Of course, need to be careful not to drain too much fluid from master cylinder.

 

right! they make negative suction. at any rate, works great regularly for me.

 

The Motive unit works on pressure, the MightyVac works on suction... both great units, but, I've done countless cars with the Motive and no issues. I never put the pressure above 15psi, work far-to-near on the bleeders, and always fill from the unit itself so no air is introduced into the system. I also crack the bleeders open only until fluid starts to come out and not fully, because that gives you a chance of air around the threads if for some reason your pressure did run fill down and you close the valve.

For a true bleed (and clean) you really need more than what the car itself holds. I will take just about all out that I can... again not to get too near the bottom for air to enter... and work from there understanding the initial valve you bleed is pushing out a mixture of old and the new. Plus you have all that are in the lines to evacuate.

 

Could anyone post the size needed for front and rear speedbleeders, as well as recommended brand? I just bought a set for my Dino and now want a set for the 360.

 

Just bought suction bleeder from Northern Tool. Hooks up to air compressor and generates much more vacuum than a hand held pump like MightyVac. Can't go wrong for $28. Griots sells the same unit but without a fill bottle for $30. You do need to purchase an NPT quick-connector as it does not come with the unit.
I have the Motive Power pressure unit and it's ok but no adapter for the Dino (you can send them a reservoir cap and they will make it into an adaptor for $25, but then you need to buy the whole reservoir bottle for $70 just to get the cap). And at 15 psi it takes a while to flush a whole system. Easier to use vacuum than pressure, and less messy provided you always keep fluid in the reservoir. And no worries about an adaptor that may or may not seal correctly. Just hook up hose to bleeder screw and pull the trigger.

I have a set of speedbleeder valves I am about to install on the Dino but have much concern over pumping the brake peddle and damaging the master cylinder, which is apparently easy to do on an older car. I will use the speedbleeders with the vacuum unit to be safe.

If anyone knows what size speedbleeder screw fts the 360 please post or pm me. Pretty sure it is M10 for the P4 38/42 Brembos, but there are 2 different lengths. Many thanks.

 

Anybody able to confirm the brake bleeder size for an F430? Thanks

 

Motive works fine, I use 5 psi tops...

Take out the bleed screw and blow it out, may have gunk in it. Even at 5 psi fluid should easily come out...

The big risk with the motive at 15 psi is that it springs a leak and shoots paint-peeling brake fuid all over your car...

 

In response to the OP (yes, I know it is 3 years ago) it may not be the bleeder, it may be the fluid.

I wonder why they use thus particular fluid with such a problem?

Would ATE work without the sludge issue?

If I had a 360 I would surely try to change.

Credit to Forza #149 May 2016
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I have Speed Bleeders in all my cars.......they are the cats ass. My suction bleeder went into the dumpster.
If you call the people at Speed Bleeder they will give you the size required for your model of car. They instantly knew the correct size for a 1966 Jaguar.

 

^^^This,

ran into this problem a few times, makes a simple bleed job a real PITA!

I've never had that problem with ATE fluid, only seen it with the stuff that the factory or the dealership is using per the factory.

 

That column was written by FChat's Brian Crall.

 

I bought this unit based on a recommendation. It's a good unit (horrible instructions) but to be honest, it's over kill for a home mechanic. It requires that you keep more fluid in the unit and I don't love that (for infrequent use).

It will probably be in the classifieds here soon and I'll get a smaller unit for single use applications.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM9-VGlBZHQ[/ame]

 

For the 360, don't you need to run the ABS pump to bleed the system property? As in, turn on the ignition key, but not the engine. Then, like the 355, isn't there a bleed screw on the master cylinder under the front bonnet? And lastly, of course, the advice about obstructed bleed vents is a good one. I use a pump type pressure bleeder with no issues.

 

Hi Vince,

On at least early 95's 355's, they don't have a bleed screw on the master, you need to crack the line.

 

I hope I gave credit correctly.

 

I just use gravity. Open the bleeder and it will slowly drain.