Racing harness pull-up vs. pull-down | FerrariChat

Racing harness pull-up vs. pull-down

Discussion in 'Tracking & Driver Education' started by Teachdocs, Jun 12, 2015.

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  1. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
    The F430C was supplied with pull-down style lap belts as part of the 6 point restraint system. Pull-down lap belts are somewhat difficult for the driver or an assistant to get tight. If the strap tail is long enough, you can thread it thru the seat side opening and pull the left strap tight against the other strap, but that's about it.

    Pull-up lap belts are easier to tighten by the driver or an assistant. FIA requires the mounting bracket to be sewn into place, making the location of the lap belt adjustment buckle somewhat of a problem on these cars.

    If you use quick snap ends, rather than bolt on ends, the distance between the attachment at the eyelet and the adjustment buckle will put the buckle just outside the seat opening. Recommended distance away from the opening is at least 1 1/2inches to allow for belt stretch on impact and prevent the buckle from being inadvertently loosened by the seat.

    The OEM mounting holes and location of the seat and lap belt openings thus prevent the use of a pull-up lap belt. If you use bolt on belts, the clearance is improved slightly, but still not sufficient for a safety margin.

    So what can be done?

    I thought about using an extender bracket that would be bolted to the floor and have a ring on the other end for the quick snap bracket to attach to. These are sometimes used in a C6 Vette to utilize the factory seat belt mounts.

    This would put the pull-up adjustment bracket just inside the seat opening and onto the hip/lower abdomen area.

    Has anyone done this or come up with an alternative solution for a pull-up lap belt in the F430C?

    Ideas, comments, criticisms welcomed.

    Thanks!
     
  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,360
    socal
    You are kinda mixing terms here. You can have clip or bolt anchor sewn, 2 bar slider, or 3 bar slider Plus pull-up or pull down configuration. Almost no one uses pull down. Those are always the harnesses on sale. You want the pull up adjuster just inside the seat hole on the lower aspect so that it can't reach the upper aspect and be cranked open under stretch. This also allows for easy readjustment for the you next time or for the next driver. See the Schroth installation guide and it tells you all you need to know to anchor laps properly at 45* angle etc. Also realize proper anti sub mounting is critical to proper lap function. That is typically where people have installation problems using the seat hole as an improper guide path for distally anchored subs. The final say on proper setup is HMS Motorsport » Safety Solutions for High Performance Driving
    talk to joe marko and he can solve all your problems
     
  3. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
    Thanks for the input!

    I have studied the Schroth guide in detail already.

    As best I can tell, every F430C that I have seen, and I believe OEM were pull-down style lap belts. I am working on a solution for a pull-up style.

    My situation is exacerbated by the need for my seat to be as far back as possible and as low as possible in the rear brackets. These two things make the distance between the OEM attachment point and the seat opening even shorter. The clip anchor sewn is a fixed distance from the adjuster. The seat opening is not large enough for the adjuster to slide thru it. At present, the adjuster sits just outside the seat opening but this leaves a tiny bit of slack between the adjuster and the anchor point, so that is not acceptable. The Schroth guide recommends the adjuster be a minimum distance of 1.5 inches below the seat opening. This is simply not possible with the snap sewn anchor style to the OEM mounting location.

    In addition, the space on the tunnel side of the seats, between the seat and the center console, is so tight that there is no way to flip the adjuster lever backwards to release the belt.

    The only way to make this work would be to relocate the lap belt anchor locations as far rearward as possible, to sit directly in front of the rear shelf ECU covers on the floor pan. That's not an option for me.

    So the alternatives are to extend the distance between the sewn quick anchor to the attachment location via an extender piece which would then relocate the adjuster to the lap area instead outside the seat or to use pull-down belts.

    I'm looking for some kind of extender and think I have sources one, or can fabricate one. But the question is: is it acceptable to have the adjuster sit on your lap in a pull up configuration (like it does in the pull-down configuration)? Has anyone done this and how did it work?

    I would love to hear from anyone who has out a set of pull-up lap belts in a F430C and how they did it unless the seat is way forward.

    Schroth makes an adjustable 2 inch lap belt that has the 3 bar slider on each end so you can convert it between a pull-up and a pull-down style just by swapping the ends. But this is a 2 inch, not sewn, and so not FIA approved.

    Good point about the sub belt mounting location. With the seat all the way back, this also creates a bit of an issue as the sewn snaps are bunched together at the seat hole even with the anchor points in the farthest rearward holes.

    I'll try to get some pics to assist with the discussion and problem solving.
     
  4. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
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    #4 Teachdocs, Jun 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
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    Chad
    #5 Teachdocs, Jun 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
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    Chad
    #6 Teachdocs, Jun 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,360
    socal
    Then you have to move the mounting location but endure proper belt path then you still have the issue with the pain that is the pull down system and the issue with the tunnel side adjust you can't reach. Some leave the tunnel and adjust from the other lap but really you can't effectively tighten laps right without pulling both straps. It is way easier to change the laps to pull up and either go with a 2bar slider or have HMS custom sew to the length you want. You really only have to get the pull up adjuster at the top of the seat hole so it can't be cranked open. That is only an issue for really small drivers. the issue with seats very rearward is ensuring the 45* anchor angle. I'm not a fan of extenders and kludges. Right parts right anchor points are the best way to go. The C6 corvette things were made as a kludge to allow owners to not modify their cars. It is a poor compromise IMO. I race corvettes. I don't think your issue is 430C specific. The problem is the seat, the driver size, and the surrounding pan where to anchor. This is an issue in every car the minute one of those things change. Not sure what you mean by FIA approved. What must be FIA approved is the anchor method. What you are reading in the Scroth manual is all FIA. They are FIA and work closer with FIA than any other harness manufacturer and have certified all the innovative stuff like ASM belts and the HANS double shoulderbelt system etc. The sewn in, 2 bar, 3 bar, sandwich are all FIA legal anchor methods. There could be an FIA rule on sewn in at the terminal ends to the cam or latch. That would prevent the pull up pull down flip around lapbelt as legal. I don't see that as working very well anyway. It is hard enough to get the adjuster in the right place. And yes pictures help.
     
  8. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
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    #8 Teachdocs, Jun 13, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2015
  9. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
  10. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
    #10 Teachdocs, Jun 13, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2015
    These are the belts that were in the car and need to be replaced.
    The bottom belt is a Schroth and was the driver's belt in a pull down style.
    The top belt is a Sabelt and was in the passenger side in a pull up style.
    [​IMG]
    The new belts are OMP and very similar to the old Sabelt in a pull-up style.
     
  11. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,360
    socal
    From your description it was as I thought and your video confirms it. It also "looks" like my suspicion that when seat is back for talk driver the anchor point is not 45*. Therefore you must relocate the anchor distal back further to achieve the right angle 1st then see where the adjuster is. It might just make it or be still the wrong length. This really speaks to a pet peeve I have. IMO seats should be fixed on the cage not the floor. But most people fix seats to the floor OEM style. IMO the OEM seat mounts are not strong enough and rarely can accommodate the lap and sub anchors in the proper position. My rec is to add proper seat base reinforcement to include proper anchors for both sub and lap belts. On metal cars that simply ment welding in additional support. On aluminum cars just a bit more creativity. Seek out a race shop or contact your local SCCA chapter and they know people who can fabricate for our needs. Finally that adjuster can get through the hole if you push it sideways then connect the anchor or drop the anchor through the seat hole then attach the anchor. Other makers like sparco know this is an issue and make bigger holes in the seat. Adjuster too close to the hole is a no no as you know.

    I am totally against, taking the easy way out, mounting anchors to thin floors with big washers to distribute the load. Everyone does it yes. But I use stupid simple math. 200lb guy can survive easy 50G impact which is 45mph delta. Data recorders show many 100G surviveable impacts. That means on a 6pt harness 1600-3300lbs on each anchor point. So if you can't jack your 430 by the seat pan it is not an acceptable harness anchor. While anyone would use big washers and anchor to a seat pan no one would floor jack a car from there. That is why I think reinforcing the seat base with proper anchor mounts is the way to go.
     
  12. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
    I agree completely with your comments about seat base and anchor mounting.

    The OEM seat and anchor points are located on OEM bracing that is substantial. To add an additional brace at the rear would be a substantial endeavor as the aluminum weld locations on the tunnel are right along the big wiring looms. Not saying it can't be done. Just saying it isn't going to get done in one week before loading the car and heading to RA.

    Ferrari raced these cars many, many times, with tall driver's and sure some of the seats were all the way back. They seemed to think the mounting and anchor locations were acceptable. Not saying I completely agree with that, but that's what's been done successfully for a long time.

    If there is anyone who has created new, additional, or relocated seat/anchor points in a F430C, I am all ears.

    The simple, most immediate solution is to use a pull-down adjuster style lap belt and hook up to the OEM anchor points just as it came from the factory.
    I don't have a new pull-down, so would need to have one sewn and back to me within the week.

    The other option is to use an extender as discussed, and locate the adjuster just INSIDE the seat area.

    This video shows the driver left side with an extender of 3 1/2 inches in place and the driver's right with the snap directly to the anchor eyelet.



    Both ways work, but the left side is easier to tighten and release than the right side due to the tunnel to seat clearance.

    Has anyone done what is shown on the driver's left?

    Aside from significant support brace and relocating the anchor points, I see no other way of doing this for a pull-up style belt without using an extender.

    I really appreciate all of FatBillyBob's input. I'm hoping to find a reasonable compromise for the short term without compromising safety.

    Has anyone else replaced their belts and come across this issue?

    https://vimeo.com/130644371
     
  13. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,360
    socal
    I think you can position your adjuster inside and away from the hole if you use the standard anchor position and clip in anchor with 2 bar slider (now you control the length). I know you want sew-in but a 2 bar slider is much better than a sew in and an extension. In fact I'm not convinced that extension arrangement will pass tech. I'm almost certain a tech inspector will say "buy the right length belt." I am 100% sure the 2 or even 3bar slider will pass tech with SCCA or NASA even at the pro level. The 3bar is typically used with 3" laps while schroth was the big dog using the 2" belts and 2 bar slider.
     
  14. Teachdocs

    Teachdocs Formula Junior

    Sep 3, 2012
    567
    Kansas City area
    Full Name:
    Chad
    The extensions worked great, just took a little work to get the bends and angles just right. I went ahead and ordered an adjustable Schroth set too as a final solution. It has a clip in anchor and 2 bar slider as you suggested. Can be converted from pull-up to pull-down to suit preference. The lap and submarine are 2 inch belts, and the chest are 3 inch down to 2 inch HANS friendly. Ready to go for RA.
     

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