| Author |
Message |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 535
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 11:18 pm: | |
Thanks again all for the help.
There was indeed air by the master cylinder. I'm not sure that everybody knows to bleed here. It's really super easy, and there was a fair amount of air that came out.
I sprayed on some super penetrant on the nuts, tapped medium-firmly with a wrench to loosen up, and they turned without much issue. I did not have to use a flare wrench, and did not have any issue with rounding off the nut.
I then rebled with the two-person pump method, and it's still got some air, but much firmer than it was before.
Thanks again for the help.
P.S. Will look into the mighty vac, I've heard good things about it.
--Mike |
philip loulis (Ria)
New member
Username: Ria
Post Number: 38
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 7:27 pm: | |
mike it will make your life easy by getting a, mityvac pump do not need any body to pump the bake and no air in line. auto zone $ 30 to $35 |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 529
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 6:49 pm: | |
Thanks for the help on this.
I know it's ridiculous--but I have not yet set the pad to rotor distance. I only discovered this after reading Ric's information up on the 308 faq site... I just plowed right through the job assuming they were the same as the fronts, clearly I've got some more work to do.
I see the adjusting screws on the front and the back. Currently they're as they came from the rebuild shop, which is to say that they're not set for my current pad thickness.
Regarding shims, I assume you're referring to the two thin metal discs that go around the main bolts between the caliper and the frame of the car? My understanding was that these were constant, and were included to adapt the ATE caliper to the 308. They do have a centering effect. There are two of them for each bolt, just like with the fronts. These aren't so much part of the caliper, though.
There are also shims inside the sections of the caliper, if I recall--but the calipers came from the rebuild shop already together...
Thanks for the direction. I'm going to set the adjustment screws appropriately and then bleed the lines to the brake master, and then the rear calipers again. We'll see if that won't firm things up.
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Jay Grande (Jay)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jay
Post Number: 1496
Registered: 10-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 6:22 pm: | |
How about the shims? |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 2443
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 6:18 pm: | |
>> I haven't done any adjustments to the new calipers (for e-brake settings). <<
Did you at least adjust the pad to rotor distance with the inner & outer adjusting screws? |
David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
Member
Username: Fastradio2
Post Number: 355
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 2:18 pm: | |
Mike,
You might want to bleed the line coming off the master cyliner first (the line that feeds the rear brakes)....
Here's how I do it:
Have a helper "pump up" the system as best as possible....and hold the brake pedal down.
You "crack" the line coming off the master...and tighten. Repeat once or twice...then try bleeding the rear calipers again.
Regards,
David |
Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member
Username: Pupz308
Post Number: 526
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 2:13 pm: | |
I just replaced my 308's rear calipers with rebuilt cores. All is well, but I can't seem to get any brake pressure back there.
I've bled and bled, and still have very little in way of braking.
The fronts behave normally: Pressure on the pedal, pedal moves to floor when loosening the front bleeder screws.
The rears aren't behaving properly, though. I do get some fluid out of them when pushing down the pedal, but not much.
What's very strange is, pressing on the pedal, and then releasing the bleeder screw doesn't result in any additional pedal travel.
What's going on here? I haven't done any adjustments to the new calipers (for e-brake settings). I did my front calipers a few months back without any problems...
What am I doing wrong?
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