| Author | Message | |||
| KCCK (Kenneth)
Member Username: Kenneth Post Number: 431 Registered: 10-2002 |
Ah, the 550. I thought people said that it is "rock solid" not so long ago. So, does overheating count in this equation? | |||
| KCCK (Kenneth)
Member Username: Kenneth Post Number: 430 Registered: 10-2002 |
Now where were we before we were last diverted?  | |||
| Ron Shirley (Easy_rider)
Member Username: Easy_rider Post Number: 547 Registered: 12-2002 |
There was a really hot girl at yesterday's Malibu Run for the FOC that looked a lot like the top girl in Ming's posts. | |||
| Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member Username: Tork1966 Post Number: 771 Registered: 7-2001 |
Ya baby!!!!!! That's what I'm talkin bout. | |||
| Dave Helms (Davehelms)
Junior Member Username: Davehelms Post Number: 69 Registered: 5-2003 |
Ferrari fixed the lg. hase problem, but for some reason the small hose next to it was ignored. I was seeing the same problems up to the 575 introduction era. The small hose can be tightened with a very convoluted combo of flex sockets with everything intact. The cars never really overheated, but for those that knew where their cars temp gauge "always ran before" it was very frustrating to see it a few needles widths higher all the time. | |||
| Ming Cheng (Onlinesys)
Member Username: Onlinesys Post Number: 307 Registered: 5-2002 |
May be Not?!  | |||
| Ming Cheng (Onlinesys)
Member Username: Onlinesys Post Number: 306 Registered: 5-2002 |
Getting Better Now!!  | |||
| PSk (Psk)
Member Username: Psk Post Number: 598 Registered: 11-2002 |
Yeah DAMN! Pete | |||
| Jerry W. (Tork1966)
Member Username: Tork1966 Post Number: 768 Registered: 7-2001 |
Damn, I thought this was a thread about chicks!!! | |||
| wm hart (Whart)
Intermediate Member Username: Whart Post Number: 1348 Registered: 12-2001 |
Jim: car ran hot, intermittent leak, difficult to trace. Leak got worse, car went into red alert. Shut it down, let it cool, but it wouldn't stay cool even after adding coolant, fiddling with thermostat, flushing system, etc. Turned out there was a leak in the hose between the V; plenum has to be removed to get there. A pain, but a cheap fix. Car ran fine after that, and after replacement of main ECU, driver's seat ECU, replacement of wheels, etc., none of which had to do with overheating. The barchetta ran fine and never overheated. | |||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Intermediate Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 1870 Registered: 10-2002 |
Kenneth You may still want to make sure that clamp is tight next time you take her in. Best | |||
| KCCK (Kenneth)
Member Username: Kenneth Post Number: 425 Registered: 10-2002 |
Ming, James, and All, My 456 has no overheating problem so far. Every time the cooling fans come on, they are very efficient. But there again, I do not drive the car hard enough. Forgive me, but compared to you guys, I am more like a "paper" Ferrari fan. | |||
| Mr. Doody (Doody)
Intermediate Member Username: Doody Post Number: 1303 Registered: 11-2001 |
if dave is taling about the coolant hose problem i think he's talking about, i believe that this was rectified sometime during CY 2000. my MY 1999 car was in a few times for a coolant leak, and at some point it was addressed by a TSB or the like. doody. | |||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Intermediate Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 1867 Registered: 10-2002 |
Dave Very interesting. Is there a way to fix the clamp? WM On your earlier car did the level of coolant go down or did it just seem to run hotter? Best | |||
| wm hart (Whart)
Intermediate Member Username: Whart Post Number: 1344 Registered: 12-2001 |
Dave: was this rectified in later production? My 97 550 had precisely that problem, among others; my 2001 nary a twitch, thing stayed within normal temp ranges even after hard driving. | |||
| Dave Helms (Davehelms)
Junior Member Username: Davehelms Post Number: 68 Registered: 5-2003 |
The 456's and the 550's had a problem with a hose in the center valley of the engine. The clamp Ferrari put on was too large and could not be tightened enough. Usually they only leak as they are cooling down, a couple hours after a drive. Look in the center valley for signs of antifreeze. Also look along the side of the engine, and on the headers on the right side for white streaks. This is a sign of coolant loss at speed. Once the air flow in the engine bay gets high enough it flushes the standing coolant out of the valley. Often this is why you dont see puddles in the garage. There is also a special procedure for bleeding the cooling system on these cars that the manual dosnt talk about. Search for a thread on the tech board about a 550 overheating. If it can be found I will post again the procedure I have found that works for these cars. | |||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Intermediate Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 1864 Registered: 10-2002 |
Good luck Ming let us know what you find. Best | |||
| Ming Cheng (Onlinesys)
Member Username: Onlinesys Post Number: 304 Registered: 5-2002 |
Michael & James, Just found out that one of the hose/joint was leaking. I had to refill 3 litres distill water in order to make the coolant temp back to normal for this Sun. morning drive. The coolant temp. was perfectly fine at 90-100 degree C after the refill but I have to top up for another 3 litre again after leaving the car for an hour. Definitely a big leak and have to send it back to the agent on next week. Tx. guys. | |||
| James Glickenhaus (Napolis)
Intermediate Member Username: Napolis Post Number: 1862 Registered: 10-2002 |
Ming I'd get that checked out. 1 Liter a month is too much to be losing. Best | |||
| Michael Yurinko (Gage)
Junior Member Username: Gage Post Number: 62 Registered: 8-2002 |
Were the fans kicking on? Maybe your T-stat is failing? Turning on the heater saved me many times. | |||
| Ming Cheng (Onlinesys)
Member Username: Onlinesys Post Number: 302 Registered: 5-2002 |
I am about to start a new thread on the Tech section about the coolant refill as I encountered a hotter coolant temperature during the recent month. My 94' 456 is perfectly fine with normal coolant temp. at 90 degree C. during hard driving (5-6000 rpm before gear change) in the Sunday morning drive for half a hour or so and even below 90 degree when crusing on the highway. However, when I was in slow traffic especially uphill (no matter with a/c on or off). The temp will be close to 110-115 degree C. (the ambient temp is 30+ degree C.). I reckoned both the fans were functioning. I also had to refill about 1 litre of coolant every month especially if I had my a/c turned on most of the time. Is it a relay malfunction or a leak in the hose or it is just normal? Thank you guys! | |||
| Kevin Marcus (Rumordude)
Junior Member Username: Rumordude Post Number: 157 Registered: 9-2001 |
I had an overheating situation in my 456M sometime ago. It was pretty itneresting in itself but it turned out that there was a bad relay. Forgetting about the adventurous story there, does the 550 have fans that automatically turn on for you at certain temp points? anywaym my relay was flaking and would not always turn the fans on so the car would occasionally heat up a bit. The very best thing to do is turn the heater on max! I'd check also and just make sur eyour fluids are okay - while you're not using the radiator much w/no air flow, it wouldnt hurt to make sure you are alright there. | |||
| Bart Duesler (The_bart)
Junior Member Username: The_bart Post Number: 157 Registered: 1-2003 |
Love the color but the heat is in front. LOL | |||
| Greg (Greg512tr)
Junior Member Username: Greg512tr Post Number: 151 Registered: 2-2002 |
heres the pic.  | |||
| Greg (Greg512tr)
Junior Member Username: Greg512tr Post Number: 150 Registered: 2-2002 |
If you still have problems try the proven TR upgrade. Adds 2 additional radiators and the timeless cheesgraters to dissapate heat.
| |||
| Bart Duesler (The_bart)
Junior Member Username: The_bart Post Number: 155 Registered: 1-2003 |
Boy, did I learn about my car in this post. Thanks. | |||
| Bart Duesler (The_bart)
Junior Member Username: The_bart Post Number: 150 Registered: 1-2003 |
My is Sn# 108108 a very eary 1997. I wish I had a secreattary. Johathan has seen my crazy office and knows I type or try to type everything I do. Sometimes I do use check check. It helps. Ferrari forever. | |||
| thomas daniels (Castex)
New member Username: Castex Post Number: 17 Registered: 6-2003 |
Has Chas had his boss's temperature needle off the scale yet?;) | |||
| Ken (Allyn)
Intermediate Member Username: Allyn Post Number: 1030 Registered: 10-2001 |
I question the wisdom of keeping the engine running. If it's way too hot, I think shutting down and waiting is better. My Lotus can run hot and airflow when moving is a huge factor in keeping it at it's optimal 85 C. If it was on the verge of overheating and I idled, even with the trunk lid up, it would likely blow. (I've never had this situation but I know when I'm eyeing the temp gauge go to the 100 C territory it's always when the car is not moving.) | |||
| wm hart (Whart)
Intermediate Member Username: Whart Post Number: 1332 Registered: 12-2001 |
How old is the car, Bart? I'm not sure why, but my 97 550 was more prone to this problem than the 2001. Anybody have any idea why? | |||
| Dan (Bobafett)
Member Username: Bobafett Post Number: 806 Registered: 9-2002 |
DJ, WHat do you mean? The 550 hood is so small, you can drive with it up! Please... --Dan | |||
| Ron Shirley (Easy_rider)
Member Username: Easy_rider Post Number: 537 Registered: 12-2002 |
Bart, I feel for your problem. At least you got out of the situation. I do have one question, though. Did you type your post or did someone type it for you. It does not look or sound like your writing (or spelling ). | |||
| PSk (Psk)
Member Username: Psk Post Number: 592 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hehe, you have to be quicker than that . Actually you explained why you should keep an engine running better ... thus every bit of information helps. Cheers Pete | |||
| DJParks (Djparks)
Member Username: Djparks Post Number: 361 Registered: 2-2003 |
Turning the engine off will send the temp of the engine and the water in it through the roof (and out onto the ground) My thoughts are too keep the engine running to continue heat exchange through the radiator, turn the heater on AND open the hood to increase airflow and convection through the engine bay....................of course you may want to pull over and stop before doing this. DJ | |||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2892 Registered: 12-2000 |
Ooops, I was still writing my post when Pete posted his... | |||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2891 Registered: 12-2000 |
I would always keep the engine running, don't shut down. When you shut down, the coolant is stationary and keeps absorbing heat. It doesn't have a chance to dissipate it out the rad if its not being circulated by the waterpump (and you need the engine running to do that). It was a good idea to shut down the A/C - less strain/drain on the engine. It also was a good idea to turn the heater on (increases the capacity to dissipate the heat. I know its sounds crazy, but it has saved me before in my daily driver). | |||
| PSk (Psk)
Member Username: Psk Post Number: 591 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hmmm. actually I have found with cars like a Jensen Intercepter (383 Chrysler V8 in a cramp engine bay with no air exit except under the car) that running the heater hard does keep it just surviving in exactly the same conditions as Bart experienced. With your heater on hard, you are adding an extra radiator to the system, and this radiator air has somewhere to go ... ie. into the car and if you open your windows then it can exit the car completely. Always the first recommendation from mechanics, when stationary, and you have an unexpected over heating problem ... is to run your heater. You have to be careful turning a hot engine off, because it may not start again, ie. the heat soak to the starter may cause it to not turn fast enough. Also if the engine is real hot you may get fuel vapourisation, etc. Obviously if the heater does not stabilise the engine temperature you have to turn off, but I hope you have a good book to read, because you may have to wait ages for it to cool enough to fire and go ... especially if you have an engine with a cast iron block/heads as they keep the heat. I guess a 550 is all alloy so it would loose the heat faster. Anyway in conclusion a good car heater is actually very effective in these conditions ... Pete | |||
| Jim E (Jimpo1)
Intermediate Member Username: Jimpo1 Post Number: 1969 Registered: 7-2001 |
When my car blew the water pump, it ran very cool as long as I was moving. Once I stopped, the needle shot up fast. I was amazed at how the airflow was routed to keep it running cool. | |||
| Dave L (Davel)
Member Username: Davel Post Number: 295 Registered: 7-2001 |
Roger that Dave(maranello) Makes sense. Just good instrument scan to keep that from getting out of line is all the recourse one might have then. | |||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 2088 Registered: 1-2002 |
Rob, I will bet that, if you sat still at 100 with the AC on, it might start to. Remember also that the 328 has radiator air outlets on top fo the front bonnet. Heat rises...and when the fans kick on, there is someplace for the heat to go. On th e550, the air is designed to go out the bottom. With no vehicle movement, this hot air just bottles up under the hood. I have seen it happen. But even a little forward movement makes a big difference to water temp (oil temp takes far longer to get high, and far longer to come back down again). | |||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 2087 Registered: 1-2002 |
Just remember, Dave, that the 550 engine idles at 1000 RPM+. and produces tremendous heat. It has no engine-driven fan. And the engine compartment is relatively cramped, with a very small radiator intake. The car was designed for long-dostance travel at high speeds, where airflow not only cools the engine, but also aids downforce. Idling at 100+ dgerees for more than a few minutes is way out of its designe parameters, especially with the AC on. | |||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5419 Registered: 12-2000 |
328 won't overheat in stop and stop 100+. Of course there's almost half the horses. | |||
| Dave L (Davel)
Member Username: Davel Post Number: 294 Registered: 7-2001 |
Im actually suprised to hear this. Front engine modern car Ferrari or not Id assume they would have dealt with this in the design. Bummer man, I hope you can sort it out. | |||
| Byron (Bmyth)
Member Username: Bmyth Post Number: 836 Registered: 10-2002 |
I suppose, Dave... you have a good point there. | |||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Member Username: Craigfl Post Number: 628 Registered: 1-2001 |
Just wait until Arlie finds this thread.... | |||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 2084 Registered: 1-2002 |
Byron, better that sort of attention than the sort that ogles & laughs at a Ferrari with its hood up.....spewing steam & expensive bits of engine aluminum, eh? | |||
| Byron (Bmyth)
Member Username: Bmyth Post Number: 835 Registered: 10-2002 |
oh that's nice... I can just picture Bart pulling over on the 15, in peak traffic, with his hood up. THAT won't attract too much attention, will it?! I agree with Rob, but sometimes, 100+ degree heat doesn't give you many options. The state line casinos was a good call, Bart! | |||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 2082 Registered: 1-2002 |
These cars do run very hot in hot-weather traffic & stop & go conditions. In theory, the fans should help...but if you are totally stationary, there is essentially no airflow into the radiator (airflow goes thru the radiator & the out at the bottom of the engine compartment). If the car is not moving at all, the fans keep bringing air in...but the superhot post-radiator air has no place to go without some forward movement. I agree with Thomas--if you are fast approaching the red, with no end in sight, shut it down, and LIFT THE HOOD. This will make an amazing difference. Wait a while, and then restart & drive. | |||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5417 Registered: 12-2000 |
I would hope a 550 would never be in a situation to overheat. Even 100+ weather in stop and stop traffic. The fans should keep it plenty cool. I would think something is wrong or you need a water flush. Anyone else know? | |||
| thomas daniels (Castex)
New member Username: Castex Post Number: 14 Registered: 6-2003 |
If things get hot I really wouldn't rely on the heater to bail you out, Bart. Try turnng off the engine and twiddling your thumbs or an hour or so. | |||
| Bart Duesler (The_bart)
Junior Member Username: The_bart Post Number: 147 Registered: 1-2003 |
Yesterday, as I was driving back from Las Vegas to my home in Orange County, California I ran into a problem. Just beyond the state line, I-15 goes up a grade of about 3,000 feet. The highway is three lanes each way with the trucks in their own slow lane. The temperature was only 101 degrees F (hot). I was going 85 -90 mph when traffic stopped. I later learn there had been a very bad accident. After sitting for 10 or 15 minutes I turned off the air conditioning as my water temperature began to rise. It kept going up. The gauge needle was almost to the red mark. More than one car stalled from an overheated engine. Finally I put the heater on. This, of course, also helps in cooling the engine. The problem with this is the last thing you want is the heater on in 100+ degrees. I took me about 45 minutes to reach a place where I could turn around and go back to the state line casinos. Does anyone know what the bottom line is for a 550 to overheat? I do not wish to warp my heads. |
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