| Author |
Message |
Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Member
Username: Ricrain
Post Number: 463
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 1:00 pm: | |
I use a thin film of 1211 that I smear on with one finger. This permits me more accurate distribution, since I'm not very good drawing a consistent bead. I'd have to say that the amount I smear on is the equivalent of a small bead (3-4 mm diameter). |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 535
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 12:58 pm: | |
Hi Jeff,
I poked around the web. Found a couple of references to using it to re-assemble things like gear cases. Instructions were to thoroughly clean the surfaces, then apply a thin bead to one surface & assemble.
It sounds like it's like most RTVs. ie: You need to assemble it within a couple of minuites or it will skin over & begin curing. Once a skin forms, it may not break & permit the underlying uncured RTV to bond to the 2nd surface.
Sounds like you're thinking it's similar to contact cement where you spread it on both surfaces, let it dry awhile & then assemble. I don't read Ric's sentence that way. |
Jeff Greenfield (Alfaguy)
New member
Username: Alfaguy
Post Number: 3
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Friday, February 07, 2003 - 10:01 am: | |
Just wondering what is the proper amount of time to allow this product to dry prior to assembly for gasketless joints?
The only info I've been able to find is a post by Ric Rainbolt that states: "Assemble before a significant skin forms"
Also, I assume for this application you apply a thin bead to both surfaces?
TIA,
Jeff |