| Author |
Message |
Jean-Louis (Jlm348)
Member
Username: Jlm348
Post Number: 651
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 5:48 pm: | |
I want to thank everyone again.
I took the car to BlackHorse Motors and they immediatelly took care of the problem.
I dropped of the car and Carl had taken care of the problem within 1 hour. He had said that three of the wires were corroded which he changed and sprayed a little anti-rust stuff.
I was impressed at how quick they dealt with the problem.
JLM |
SRA (Sranderson)
Junior Member
Username: Sranderson
Post Number: 77
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 1:40 pm: | |
Just remember, when you reconnect the power, let it idle for 10 min. to reset the ECUs, |
Jean-Louis (Jlm348)
Member
Username: Jlm348
Post Number: 648
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 12:12 pm: | |
I can not thank everyone enough for your posts.
Later today I will turn the conector off and have a closer look.
My window speed is very fast now so I do not think that I will do the hard wire right now, but sounds like an great idea.
Since I am not that talented with a soldering iron, do you guys think that I should tae it to an independent Mechanic or maybe even a stereo shop?
Thanks again for all of your imput |
Charles Barton (Airbarton)
Member
Username: Airbarton
Post Number: 699
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 7:15 am: | |
Or you could do what I did and just eliminate the connector. I took the whole thing apart, removed the little pins, drilled out the holes, and ran new wire through. Now I have a non-stop straight connection with nothing in between. It only took about 10 hours to do. My windows fly up & down now and I don't have to worry about them quitting at an inopportune time. let me know if you would like more detail. I will be glad to walk you through it. |
J R K (Kenyon)
Member
Username: Kenyon
Post Number: 624
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 6:22 am: | |
http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/285153.html |
J R K (Kenyon)
Member
Username: Kenyon
Post Number: 623
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 6:16 am: | |
Jean,
My 348 spyder had the exact same problem. I solder the wire to the plug. sorted now. Check the archives on this suject. |
J R K (Kenyon)
Member
Username: Kenyon
Post Number: 622
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 6:15 am: | |
Jean,
My 348 spyder had the exact same problem. It solder the wire to the plug. sort now. Check the archives on this suject. |
Malcolm West (Ferrari_uk_tech)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrari_uk_tech
Post Number: 52
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 4:02 am: | |
As already said it's the door connectors, I would replace all the terminals and re-assemble with a water repellant - worth checking the other door as well bound to be in the same condition
MW |
Craig Williams (Craigw)
Junior Member
Username: Craigw
Post Number: 179
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 3:43 am: | |
undo that whole junction box by turning onre click anti clockwise, check if there is any moisture inside, maybe spray a small amount of water dispersant, then reconnect & try. Worth a go. Worked for me. |
Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarifixer
Post Number: 72
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 3:37 am: | |
Yes. Common as herpes on a whores flange.
The wires break off the door multi connector, and simply need replacing with new. |
Vincent (Vincent348)
Intermediate Member
Username: Vincent348
Post Number: 1005
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 11:57 pm: | |
Sounds like you're on the right track. I remember some posts about someone redoing some harness connection at the doors.
Vincent. |
Jean-Louis (Jlm348)
Member
Username: Jlm348
Post Number: 646
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 10:42 pm: | |
Drove the car this weekend on the FDC Roland Linder Drive event, and my driver side controls for the power windows stopped working at the first meeting spot.
Tonight I inspected the car minimally and determined that when the car door is open the widows would receive power and work, when closed they would not receive power.
There is a ruber housing going from the inside of the door to the inside of the car. I wiggled it around a little bit, and the power to windows would go on and off.
I was able to detach the rubber housing from the car side which appeared to be covering a round juction box, but not the door side. (it traveled for at least 2 inches inside of the door)
I noticed that there is one wire that was basically hanging on by a thread at the round junction boxand at the end of my gentle wigiling around is now completely off.
I can not believe how tight the wires are. Basically with your door wide open there is no wigle room what so ever.
I would like to know if any one has had a similiar problem and can give me an idea of what it will cost to fix. I am assuming that 1 or more wires need to be sent from the round junction box to the power window terminal.
Also I am in the Los Angeles area, can anyone recommend a shop to do this work that is reasonable?
Any comments will truly be appreciated.
Thank you in Advance
Jean-Louis
94 348 Spider |