| Author |
Message |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 724
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 5:46 pm: | |
Makes sense. Thank you. Thus, it has nothing to do with fully extending the shock. It is the shear at the rubber/brass bushing that you are concerned about.
Thank you.
Jim S. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 2051
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 2:48 pm: | |
(I'm not specifically familiar with the assembly sheet that you're referring to, but) since the eyelet-style bushing of a Koni shock is a "flexing"-type (and not a sliding-type) if you tighten the mounting bolts in the full droop position, the rubber end bushings will/may be "twisted" slightly in shear when the suspension is moved into the normal operating position so best to do the final tightening with the suspension in/near the normal operating position to avoid that additional twisting (similar to installing flexing-type A-arm bushings). With the coachwork elevated (and the suspension in full droop) I'd just put a piece of 2x4 + floor jack under the lower A-arm and raise the one corner before final tightening, and then move to the next corner, etc.. |
James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member
Username: Jselevan
Post Number: 723
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 11:41 am: | |
Why does Koni call for installation with the suspension compressed? The instruction sheet states that the car should be raised on a lift that supports the tires, not one that attaches to the chassis and allows the suspension to hang.
Of course, the suspension will hang below the length of the shock when allowed to hang, but is there potential damage to the shock if fully extended during installation?
Jim S. |
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