348 Console button LED light fix/conversion (multi-post)

since a few guys asked for it, here is the process to fix the lights in the center console buttons.
Many of you are thinking.. ''there are lights in there?''. YEA! but my guess is they've been burned out for years, and for you 2nd, 3rd, etc. owners... you probably have never seen them work!
I for one insist that all features and functions work in all my cars... keep in mind that this process is alot simpler than it looks... so here goes.

Heres what you will need...
4 super bright white or green LED's: 3mm, 3-3.2 volts (I used white)
1 1-watt flame-proof resistor: 120 ohm to 330 ohm depending how bright you want them to be (I used 180 ohm) less ohm's = brighter
OPTIONAL: 1 12 volt positive voltage regulator. You dont HAVE to use this part, but it will stabilize the voltage to your LED's and make them last infinitely longer... if not forever.
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Next, remove the switch assembly from the console... extremely self explainitory. DISCLAIMER: If you cant figure out how to remove the switch assembly, then you probably shouldnt attempt this fix.
There are 2 tabs on each of the 4 sides that hold the internal (white) part into the housing. Use a small blade screwdriver to gently pry each one up until it pops up. there are 3 black plastic pegs that are melted to the surface of the white part, use your soldering iron to melt those apart if necessary.
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Once removed, the white piece splits apart and you'll have a ''clamshell''. now desolder the existing light bulbs and remove them. You will then need to use a 1/16 drill bit to enlarge the holes for the LED leads, they are wider than the bulb leads.
See 2nd picture where I used a sharpie to trace the POSITIVE connection at each light bulb, starting at the main connector lead.
This will help assure that you install each LED properly... the LONGER lead on the LED is positive (+). If you insert any of the LED's backward, they wont light, and you risk buring up the ones that are correctly installed.
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Now you're ready to install and solder the LED's... making certain that your polarity is correct... they should look like this when done.
Keep in mind that this looks like a mess, I got flux all over the place! lol Plus I like to use a scribe to scratch around each solder joint to make sure there's nothing there that may short it out. Also note that I had not yet cut the LED leads down in the picture. Make sure you dont forget that part!

NOTE: there was a square piece of thin black plastic between the clamshell when you took it apart. DONT FORGET to put that back in before you reassemble the switch!
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Now, if you're going to use the voltage regulator, use the pics below as a reference. if you're NOT going to use the voltage regulator, skip this step!
A picture is worth 1000 words here... left pic is the rough assembly, right pic is after adding the heat-shrink. Make yours look like this.
pin 1: 10-35v input
pin 2: ground (-)
pin 3: 12v regulated output
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This is where you get into the wiring in the car. find the wire at the connector that is YELLOW w/RED STRIPE. you will need to cut this wire as shown to connect your regulator. If you did not build a regulator, simply solder your resistor inline to this wire.
Otherwise, connect your regulator as shown in the pic.

1: from regulator pin 3 (lead with the resistor)
2: from regulator pin 1 (12v feed from the car's lighting circuit)
3: from regulator pin 2 (ground (-)) I just scotch-locked this to the black ground wire at the connector as you can see
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Now your ready to put your switch assembly back together (reverse of taking it apart) and then reinstall it into the console panel.
plug the connector back in and put everything back together. Turn ignition on and turn on your dash lights, hopefully something good happens!
Like so...
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As I said earlier... this is alot easier than it may look. The whole thing took under an hour, and all the parts to do it cost less than $23.00
If I left out any crucial details on anything... let me know so I can revise or whatever. I hope you enjoyed my little technical contribution!

 

Yes, they are brighter... but definitely not a distraction. more of a sharper light if anything.
They are brighter then the other lights, like the ones above the fuel & oil temp gauges... the new ones actually make those look dim and dull, versus those making the new ones look too bright. I may experiment with the resistor a bit, or perhaps a potentiometer... that way I can adjust it until it looks just right, then measure the resistance.
but I would probably recommend that anyone who does this, go with a 330 ohm, or perhaps even a 460 ohm resistor... that may balance these out better with the others.

 

ok, I did some more testing today, which I should have done in the 1st place. if you want these LED's to be a close match to the other lighted buttons, you'll need 6.3K ohms worth of resistors.
Since there is no single resistor available for this, you'll need three 1/2 watt resistors:
1 - 4.7k ohm
1 - 1k ohm
1 - 330 ohm

You'll have to solder them together inline ---[ ]--[ ]--[ ]--- in no specific order, and attach them in place of the single resistor shown and described in the posts above.

I tried a ton of different resistor combinations, and this configuration was the closest match.

BTW, if anyone wants this done, but you dont have the skills/tools to do it... If you send me your switch assembly, i'll do the conversion for you. I have figured out a way to put the resistors inside the housing (way too complicated to explain), so you wont have to cut into your wiring or anything. I will do this for you for $70 including all parts and return Priority Mail shipping. I can turn it around in 48 hours or less. If you want details on how to send it too me, PM me.
Sorry, but I can only do this for guys in the USA.