Joshtownsend's 1992 348 engine out service and maintenance thread | FerrariChat
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Joshtownsend's 1992 348 engine out service and maintenance thread

Discussion in '348/355' started by joshtownsend, Aug 30, 2014.

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  1. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #1 joshtownsend, Aug 30, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    First off, if you don't like something.. I'm the type of guy that could care less.. so please keep my thread clean as I do this for the benefit of other DYI guys like myself and others prior to me. Also, I am not a good writer, speller, or much for being politically correct. I also have dyslexia, so you will see from time to time that i will get letters backwards, just deal with it as i have. I believe content is far more important then being 100% wrote correctly. I sleep just fine at night. hahaha

    Back story. I just recently purchased 1992 348 that I saw on this site. How i came to buy the car was a bit of story in itself... so, that will be another time.

    First off, there were some nay sayers about this car on here and about it has too many miles.. something wrong with it, ect because of the price... I can say with confidence, deals are still out there and can be found with the right amount of looking.. I got this car for considerably less then what I would say 99% of people buy theirs at, so I feel really good about that.

    Back ground on the car.

    Its a 1992 348 TS
    62k miles on its now
    serviced by Norwoods in Dallas in 2008 with 58k miles
    few scratches and nicks, nothing a normal 62k cars probably wouldn't have even for an exotic.

    Now, on the the thread. If there are any questions i can answer, or picture you would like, please let me know..or PM me... and I will do my best to get them.

    I plan on doing a full engine out on the car. I also plan on powering coating a few pieces to make it look nice and fixing things that may need attention. This this point, i have installed a new exhaust system and new "generic" $15 O2 sensors that seems to work great. I have no check lights on and everything runs just fine.

    I purchased a full 348 engine out from Ricambi America thanks to Dan. I also got a few seals for the trans fluid swap. I got Mobile 1 10w30 oil from wal-mart at $23 for a 5 quart jug. There will be more parts to come, but will will get there when we get there.

    Day 1 8-30-14

    Before any work has been started, I figured I would do a compression test. Although it doesn't tell you tons of info, it's always good to have and lets you know a starting point. I know there are a few people that have their ideas on what the numbers should be, or how the test should be preformed, but I did it with everything connected but the plug wires. I did try it with the air box out, no difference and also tried with the TB open, again, no difference. I let it go for about 6 revolutions and recorded the names with pictures.

    cyl 1 171
    cyl 2 171
    cyl 3 173
    cyl 4 175
    cyl 5 173
    cyl 6 177
    cyl 7 170
    cyl 8 175

    As you can see, all within 5% of each other and everything seems to confirm the notion that everything is a ok with the motor. I realize that some will say that it should be 200-220.. I say that's great for them.. I build motors, am im just fine with these numbers.

    Again, forgive the misspelling on the pics. I also don't know why they wont turn90 degrees.. but oh well.
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  2. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
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    #2 AceMaster, Aug 30, 2014
    Good stuff, looking forward to this thread.

    I love that colour by the way.
     
  3. F1moving

    F1moving Formula Junior
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    May 7, 2014
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    #3 F1moving, Aug 30, 2014
    Looks like some possible paintwork down the drivers side???? Or is that shadowing? Door does not seem to match the front fender and looks like the blend stops just before the drivers door lock/handle.
     
  4. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #4 joshtownsend, Aug 31, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Day 2 Staging the car, draining the fluids

    I have decided to do the job out side of my shop. One reason is i have too many cars... another reason is it will allow me a lot of room to get everything out, then pull the drive train inside the shop to work on it rather then being tight on space.

    I drove the car around for about 30 minutes and got it nice and hot. Came home and started to drain the oil out of the dry sump and oil pan. I also started to drain the trans/gear fluid as well. I will let everything drain over night. The oil nut to drain it is a 12mm allen head. Note, many "tool kits" such as craftsman only goes up to 10 mm, so its kinda of a special tool. The nut on the dry sump is size "freaking big"... I had to break out my very old crestan wrench.

    I hope to start pulling the drive train tomorrow and have everything out by the evening.. so, with out further ranting, on to the pictures.
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  5. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #5 AceMaster, Sep 1, 2014
    22mm is the size for the sump plug....10mm for the gear oil plug
     
  6. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #6 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    yeah, i saw that this morning..good info.

    Well, im starting this morning and going try something i normally wouldn't do and that is to update the thread as i go along during the day... we shall see how it go and feel free to ask questions..maybe it will make me slow down so i dont make a mistake..haha

    Got the car in the air and all strapped down. I place 160lbs of concrete in the front for added safty.. looks dangerous and if i wasnt here myself i would say the same thing.

    Anyways.. disconnecting the clutch cables right now
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  7. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #7 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #8 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  9. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #9 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. jetfuel79

    jetfuel79 Karting

    Apr 19, 2014
    158
    Valdosta, GA
    Full Name:
    David
    #10 jetfuel79, Sep 1, 2014
    Looking good! I posted my engine out service with tons of pics if you get to any points along the way that have you confused. The hardest part is the removal of the engine itself as the clearance from the shock towers and other framing parts is very very tight.

    Keep up the good work and happy wrenching!
     
  11. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #11 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yeah, i have your thread open as well, its helping alot. trying to get different pictures and angles so its more info for the next guy.

    Disconnected the brake lines. Ernies right, there is not easy way to get to them where they are, so i pulled them up and over and had them out in minutes.
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  12. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #12 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Started working on the top of the motor. Puller off the air box and mafs. Disconnected the upper radiator hoses and charcoal canisters hoses. Also, disconnected a cable, not sure what is goes to just yet, but needed to come out. Also disconnected the throttle cable and measured it for reference. Also disconnected the oil cooler lines that goes to the dry sump.
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  13. zc911

    zc911 Formula Junior

    Mar 4, 2014
    707
    Brampton, Ontario
    Full Name:
    Rob
    #13 zc911, Sep 1, 2014
    Very cool thanks for posting. I'll be doing the same in a month or two. I actually can't wait to dig in!
     
  14. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
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    #14 AceMaster, Sep 1, 2014
    And 12mm Allan for the engine oil plug that is mounted and drains horizontally (the one where you need to remove the undertray to access).

    When refilling the gear oil: if from up top, under the air box, a 19mm allan. If from down below, via the dipstick, a 17mm socket.
     
  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Nov 19, 2001
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    #15 ernie, Sep 1, 2014
    Love it!

    Keep up the good work, and keep the pics comin.
     
  16. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #16 joshtownsend, Sep 1, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    well been busy eating lunch, talking breaks because peeps kepp coming by to look and stare, but its out... had a few odds and in of things that i didn't disconnect..but overall it was pretty straight forward..
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  17. carguyjohn350

    carguyjohn350 F1 Rookie
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    Mar 7, 2007
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    Houston, TX
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    John P
    #17 carguyjohn350, Sep 3, 2014
    I love these type of threads. Thanks!
    Also love the blue 348!
     
  18. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,776
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    Mike
    #18 AceMaster, Sep 3, 2014
    Nice job so far
     
  19. TheAmishSasquatch

    TheAmishSasquatch Guest

    Jul 6, 2014
    52
    #19 TheAmishSasquatch, Sep 3, 2014
    I'm really diggin this thread. Keep up the good work and congrats on the new acquisition.
     
  20. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #20 joshtownsend, Sep 3, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Well, did a little bit of work on the engine today.. Took off the timing belt covers and value covers to check the value clearances. According to one thread, the exhaust is suppose to be between 0.20 and 0.25 and the exhaust is suppose to be between 0.30 and 0.35. My results are as follows... any comments would be helpful with this as normally i would let it ride, but 1mm might be a big difference. Also, my feeler gauges go from say 0.25 to 0.28. There is no 0.26 or 0.27 So the number that i have listed is the biggest that will fit underneath the lobe. I may need to buy a better set.

    My gauge choices where 0.20 0.23 0.25 0.28 0.30 0.33 0.35 0.38 0.40 0.42

    I also did it will all the lobes points up. Seems that i may need some 0.05 ish shims for a few.. maybe not.. Well just see what the guys that work on the heads says because i'm no expert.

    Also, snug means it probably the right number and probably wouldn't take 0.01 mm more. Loose means it may take a few more mm but not more then the next higher gauge i had. I really hope this makes sense.

    #1
    intake 1) 0.23 2) 0.23
    exhaust 1) 0.38 loose 2) 0.38 loose

    #2
    intake 1) 0.23 loose 2) 0.23 loose
    exhaust 1) 0.38 snug 2) 0.38 loose

    #3
    intake 1) 0.23 2) 0.23
    exhaust 1) 0.35 2) 0.35

    #4
    intake 1) 0.25 snug 2) 0.25 snug
    exhaust 1) 0.35 2) 0.38

    #5
    intake 1) 0.23 2) 0.23
    exhaust 1) 0.38 2) 0.40 snug

    #6
    intake 1) 0.25 2) 0.25 loose
    exhaust 1) 0.33 2) 0.33

    #7
    intake 1) 0.28 loose 2) 0.28 snug
    exhaust 1) 0.38 2) 0.35

    #8
    intake 1) 0.23 2) 0.25 loose
    exhaust 1) 0.35 snug 2) 0.35 snug


    Anyways. Also, looked at the timing belt and as you can imagine, after 7 years and 4k miles, it still looks pretty good. I was also surprised that i have a Hill engineering bearing already in place... So that makes me feel pretty good. You may see in the pictures that the value cover gaskets were leaking as well, I have new replacements and will probably silicone them up as well to reduce them leaking in the future.

    Any comments about the numbers and the way the motor looks are welcome as this is my first time doing this.

    I hope to have ever thing apart this weekend, but i work 10 hrs a day and will be going out of town this coming week, so i hope to wrap it up before i leave, fingers crossed.!!
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  21. 97 Spider

    97 Spider Formula 3

    Dec 15, 2012
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    #21 97 Spider, Sep 3, 2014

    Looking good so far, but don't rush it. Relax. If it has to wait until after you get back from your trip so be it. When you get in a hurry you can get a little punchy and that's when you miss things.
     
  22. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #22 joshtownsend, Sep 3, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Looked over the 348 hand book, looks like i might be OK.. I currently have test pipes on my car with an exhaust. Here is what i found.
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  23. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Nov 19, 2001
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    #23 ernie, Sep 4, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2014
    If you are setting up your cams for cars without catalytic converters then here is what I see. Both intake valves on #7 will need adjusting for sure, as will both exhaust valves on #6 ....IF you are adjusting for NO cats. The second exhaust valve on #4 (the one measuring 0.40) is up to your discretion. It is on the outer specs for cars without cats, and since you are running test pipes you should be okay. Having said that if it where my car I would adjust it.

    Another thing to be mindful of is the cam timing. Car WITH cats have different cam timing and over lap than the cars WITHOUT cats. From what I have seen the non-cat euro cams have +1° of overlap dialed in that the U.S. Cars with cats don't. If I'm remembering this correctly the non cat cars are also running their cams advanced a little. Non-cat cars have less back pressure in the exhaust, which is why I'm guessing the factory allowed for a looser valve lash on the cat-less cars.

    Then there is the issue of the tune on your Motronic ECUs from the factory. If you fool with the cam timing, other that what it was tuned for, you could get into some running issues. For me, the most important thing was to know my cam timing. I set my cam timing to the marks on the cams and caps, and adjusted my valve lash to the middle-tight end of the specs for cars with cats, since I'm running high flow cats. When I double checked the cam timing my cam marks where dead nuts on spec for cars WITH cats.

    So to some it up.

    How are your cams timed? Then adjust your valves accordingly. That's how I do it anyway.
     
  24. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

    Jan 14, 2011
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    Paul Nicholasen
    #24 pnicholasen, Sep 4, 2014
    Yep, same comments I repeat on all these threads, but I'll do it again:
    1) At 62K do you know if the plastic tensioner rub blocks for the oil pump/cam drive wheel chain have ever been replaced or checked? If not I'm guessing they're about disintegrated.
    2) Doesn't look the fence on your cam drive wheel has been reinforced with a few spot welds... highly recommended.
    3) Do you know if the bearings behind the cam drive wheel have ever been checked to see if they're roller (bad) or ball (good)?
    4) Are you going to get your water pump rebuilt? Seems to be recommended as a few $100's more now beats possibly having to drop the engine again if the pump goes in the next few years.
     
  25. joshtownsend

    joshtownsend Formula Junior

    Jul 12, 2007
    421
    H-town...TEXAS
    #25 joshtownsend, Sep 4, 2014
    I have a bore scope that i will be looking at the block when i get things off. I plan on welding up the pulleys. I also will be checking the bearing although im fairly certain it was already changed. Water is already out as well to be resealed. Thanks for the advise!!!
     
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