F430 spider Right Fuel Pump leak

Access to it is not difficult, you only need to remove the RHS engine bay panels (the small rear one first). Then it all depends where the leak is exactly located. It can be one of the hoses located on the top of the fuel tank. In this case, it should be quite easy to fix as long as you don't have to remove the pump itself.

 

Here's a picture of the fuel hose.

Some more info:
Each engine bank is supplied by its own system and each system is independent.

Each system is made up of a fuel tank with an immersed electric pump and a pressure regulator set at 3,6 bar.

The fuel coming from the pump reaches the flow or injector rail pipe which distributes the fuel to the injectors of each bank.

The system is a "returnless" type, that is without the return of fuel to the tank.

The tanks are connected to each other, in the lower section by a line equipped with a plug used to drain the system and in the upper section by a separator which collects and condenses the fuel vapours.

The left-hand tank has a control that transmits the signal to the level indicator on the instrument panel.


On the upper surface of the tanks there are special valves which prevent fuel leakage in certain vehicle set-ups. These valves are connected to a separator which collects and condenses the fuel vapours.

Besides these valves, the system also contains an inertia switch whose purpose is to cut out the electrical supply for the fuel pumps, in the event that the car undergoes sudden deceleration (collision).
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Thanks, you're very welcome.
Well, actually I give you the info for the Coupe, not the Spider.

Maybe JC can come in here and confirm that the access is identical for the Spider?

 

Man, if you had posted this a day before < ha ha>. Had the rear panels out, along with all taillights, but put car back together Saturday. Sorry.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure all of that is the same as the coupe, but you could quickly confirm with part numbers from Ricambi. By the way, the only difference for sure is tank capacity. Somebody said it was the same, but it's not. Spider only holds (approx) 20-1/2 gallons, versus 25-1/2 for the coupe. I always thought it was crazy to show empty with 5 gallons still in there. Turns out I was on fumes when I got the car, just like I suspected .

 

Its under the Top. Not hard in itself BUT you have to be very careful!

The top can be partially motored up, revealing access #57 in image. The top will stay where you leave it for a few minutes supported by hydraulic pressure. Then you will here a series of beeps, after which the hydraulic system will shut down and the top parts will all move asynchronously from each other quite possibly causing paint damage or worse.

I recommend having three people involved, one on each side and one doing the work. You can "support" the top parts as I did to allow for extended maintenance. You will still need two people to be ready for when the hydraulic system shuts down and the top parts start to fall where they may. Then you catch them and insert supports and verify supports. Then you can work under the top for as long as you need. There is a special top tool from Ferrari for like 2-3K that keeps the system ON, but I forget where you can order it from, i think one of the third party SD2 vendors. Still cant find the link.

Just be careful, scared me a bit the first time the system shut down.

Image Link from the great sponsor [ Ricambi ] : http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=114267
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I need to replace my fuel pumps. Does this require the moving of the fuel tanks to do that? I have a coupe.

 

Nope. just take off the side panels in the engine bay. Disconnect with a rag to avoid fuel spray, remove the 10mm bolts, and theyre out. The rearmost bolts can be a pain to get at FYI. instructions are on here somewhere..

*edit- just saw you have a 430... not sure if same as 360... so sorry..

 

Thank you VRsurgeon.
I have to imagine the 430 and 360 are similar in regards to the fuel pump, but my problem when I tried to replace them was that is seemed like I couldn't get them out or in due to the small space. Feels like I have to move the tank to do this work. On the 360 are they a straight up and down install?

 

For me straight up and down install. I untwisted the plastic turn flange htat holds them on to the tank, and then undid the 10 or 12 bolts that hold the metal cap onto the tank.. I had to wiggle and angle it out, but it did come out. I apologise I don't have access to the 430 workshop manual in front of me..

Because of the tight space in there, you're probably going to have to undo the 10-12 10mm bolts that hold the fuelpump and its cap to the engine. Also bear in mind that the fuel pump has springs on the two metal rods that hold it into the fuel tank. You might, might have to compress these a but to reduce its height to get it out. expect the left (drivers side in us) to be harder to get out because of the fuel float. Just checked the ricambi diagrams and they do appear to be the same as 360.

I presume the usual ethanol and heat leading to leakage?

 

Ahh! Thank you. I got to that point and was stuck. I couldn't figure out how much more I needed to take a part and the left fuel pump felt like it didn't want to come out. I don't have leaks but the pumps are starting to show signs of failure and that's what the code stated. I also have to replace the potentiometer. I have 48K miles on the car, so just wear and tear.

 

I just used this thread to track down a gas smell. Took off the engine panel and touched the top of the white fuel pump and it was slightly wet (gas). Then if you look at the silver dollar size raised part where the gas line comes out it is raised about 1/2 in and that was very wet / like a little swimming pool of gas.

Wanted to share for the next guy trying to tell where the smell is coming from.

Eurospares has the part new for 244 Pounds so will try that tomorrow.

 

My mechanic replaced both fuel pumps on a F360 due to the crack on the top of the fuel pump. He recommended me to replace my 2006 F430 too, for its age.

Attached photos show where the potential leaking problems would be:

1. The fuel hose connector is push fitted to the tube on the top of the fuel pump. It is secured by a press-release catch. The hose is hanging on the tube without any support. The vibration of the engine would produce stress on this connection. Over time (mine is 10 years) there is noticeable play in the connection when compared to the new one. That means the O-rings inside the hose connector deformed and the fitting become loose.

2. The engine vibration also put stress on the tube of the fuel pump. The F360 fuel pump cracked where the tube joins the top plate.

3. The fuel hose feels sticky. It is the sign of aging on the rubber.

Replaced both fuel pump and hose on the F430, even there is no gas smell.
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Great thread.

Ditto on a 3 man job... even if the 3rd guy sits around most of the time.

We made a small tool to take the pumps out with some strips of steel and a socket if you have access to a welding plant... makes the removal faster.

 

I know this is a really old post but I had this same problem with my F430. I ran into this post when I had the fuel leak and wasnt able to get much help on the subject. I did find a video online showing a fix for a Volvo which has the same fuel pump as the F430/360.
In the middle of the fuel pump, there is a circle with a cross in the middle. If the fuel is filling up there, you really dont need to change the pumps. They still work fine, just has a crack in the plastic cover. All you need to do is clean out the cover of the fuel pump as best as you can, dry the holes where the fuel is building up, and fill it with marine grade epoxy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KH62K50
That is the one I used my self. Make sure to let it dry overnight before running the car. I used this fix almost 6 months ago and I have not had any problems with it to this day.
$2000 repair ended up costing me about $5s and a few hours of my time.

Here is the original video I found. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UJYCfGPdeg
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I just replaced the passenger side pump on my 360 spider which was leaking in the same place. $565 for the pump and a straightforward one person job. The new pump is a different material (polypropylene I believe) appears beefier and is orange in color) I looked at the driver side pump also, and it was fine, but while testing the new pump, I looked one more time and it started leaking right before my eyes!. There have been a lot of problems with leaking in this type of pump made by both Bosch and Denso. Couple of recalls at least.

I decided to try the epoxy fix, at least as a temporary before I drove the car again. I used Permatex Plastic Weld. (Available at AutoZone) Cleaned the top of the regulator thoroughly with carburetor cleaner, then used a dremel tool and a couple of jewelers files to roughen up the plastic before filling with epoxy. 24 hours to set and it tested sat.

That was two months and about 1200 miles ago. I just looked at it and the repair is holding fine. I will probably replace the pump in a couple of months along with annual maintenance but this appears at least a good temporary fix.

Cheers, Andy

 

The only concern that I have with this repair is it doesn't address that neck on which the line to the injectors plugs into. If this cracks.. fuel will spray all around the engine bay and you will have a fire. Epoxy for me as well was a nice short term repair for the cracked roll over valve.. but it's not a permanent solution. If the plastic cracked on the return valve.. do you really think the other plastic isn't on its way out?

 

Great fix Abdunuryan.

So based on what Curt said maybe I would have cleaned and beefed up this area as well to make it more secure.

Man, the stuff you learn on this forum. You guys are so knowledgeable that it takes away some of the scare parts of ownership of this aging exotic.
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I would. That way even if it cracks and the crack opens, its a spurting leak and not a complete gusher. I'm going to say it.. replacement is going to be the best solution to the problem as you know..

 

Does the spider top need to be removed to replace the pump?

 

Not at all. Go back to post#7 by Trent. It is better if you have extra hands, but I was able to access the pumps on my Maserati spyder working alone, and it's almost identical.

 

let go of the switch half way and let the back fall back down. once you turn the car off, you can pull the back panel up by hand and use something to prop it up. i used a piece of wood. very simple. did the entire thing my self in my garage. took less then a hour including cleanup and putting everything back together. See picture for reference.
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