Footwell Fire Extinguisher

Well I wanted to add some functional red to the cabin of my car so I broke down and bought the very sexy Competition Components Fire Extinguisher setup Competition Components - Competitive Racing Safety Equipment

I suspected that I received the wrong mount for my car since I couldn't understand how to make it work. When this happens to me because of my remoteness I am faced with eating crazy shipping costs and the time lag in transit or fixing myself. Ten seconds later I had the hack saw out and then I decided to go full monty... then I succumbed to little self inflicted scope creep and started scrounging around the garage.

I have had this cup holder from a BMW sitting on top of my toolbox for a while with plans to integrate into the cabin so I put all that together with a few hours here and there and wallah. I am moderately happy with the effort. I want to redo the U-channel spacer that holds the cup holder with some thicker extrusion but I didnt have any handy. I will use 1/8 thick material when I re-do which is the same as the main rail. It is a little flimsy as is but would be fine for a small drink until I get around to it.
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Those are desiccant canisters. I use them to combat the humidity when not being driven adn put them in the boot with the cover when driving!

 

I am running the cup holder in reverse of what the stock use is, I dont think it's a problem. I got the idea from one of the 612 guys.
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1. Haven't tried but that's a good question. I mounted it pretty far forward to create room for the cup holder so I am sure it could be setup to do this by moving it back. Also you could mount the tank part of the clamping system further toward the end of the tank and get the pull that much closer.

2. I am pretty sure you could customize the mount to get it up high enough to reach the pull just beyond where you would reach to shift into 5th or 6th.

 

Just tell them that things have been known to get pretty hot in here so it's just a precaution Ms. Debutante !

 

You know I will! We just need about $20 bucks worth of parts and an hour or so to fab the custom rail. (and of course the awesome Safecraft extinguisher & bracket). If you want the cup holder I got mine from ebay for about 100 bucks. They come in different finishes IIRC so finding used might take a little effort.
The hardest thing of the entire process is getting the garage when my wife's car is gone so I have access to my workbench! :-(
Let's talk!

 

No, toward the front of the 360 seat rail there is an unused hole that is about 5/16ths and that is the attach point. You need to remove the plastic decorative end cap from the rail to access it but it just pops off. Screw shown with washer for reference.
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I am an using .75 x .50 x 1/8 Aluminum extrusion (short leg toward tunnel). I am certain that it is secure enough for my application. When tightened with a small shim forward of the attach hole (between seat rail and extrusion) it creates an interference fit with the carpet on the center tunnel and the weight of the extinguisher keeps it tight against the floormat. It might be an issue in a rollover but this concern could be engineered out with some bigger extrusion or bar stock for the accessory rail. I wanted petite and worked with materials I had laying around.

The thing you are calling the pb2 flat plate mount I had to fab also. It is alum bar stock 2.00 x .250. I cut it about 4-5 inches long to establish the height of extinguisher and that attaches to the supplied mounting block that comes with the extinguisher and the extrusion rail. I could measure any of this for you if you need but your assembly might need to be tweaked here or there based on how far you want the extinguisher from the seat and how thick your floormats are. I made mine long so I could accommodate the cup holder.

... and I still have this fantasy that I am going to use the 360 for golf and wanted to be able to slide seat far forward!

 

Yes but.......
The kit I received from Competition Components was not correct for my car so I had to Macgyver this contraption to use the bottle and hardware that came with it.
I think the part that CC uses would be the way to go for ultimate strength and he only charges like 75 bucks for it! It is a beautiful part that is wrinkle painted black. Here are some pictures of it when I was trying to figure out how to make it work. I had to flip the pin block over to even get it close to useable but then it was going to require heavy mods to get it mount as clean as I demand against the center tunnel. That's why I suspect I received the wrong part because I couldn't find any complaints about the product anyplace online. The guy "Dan IIRC" is great to speak with on phone.

First picture is a test fit after I flipped the mounting block (with hole) 180 deg and you can see that I was going to have issues with the angle of the bar and the angle of the seat rail attach point. Instead of shipping it back to him and the cost and lost time I chalked it up to "knowledge" and went to find some materials and a hacksaw.

Second picture is how it fit when I bolted it to the seat rail with supplied bolt. I messed with the alum mount block but I could see no way to get around this undesirable condition. The rest are me trying to figure out what I had before me.
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I like your mount. I wanted to do this but couldn't find what mount to use so I went with tunnel. I think your fix is right around the corner. Just move the tank bracket down to the base of the extinguisher, then use some 1/4 thick aluminum bar stock to fabricate a simple mount and vary the dimensions until you get the pull handle where you want it.
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Great question and I wondered why you wanted to reach it with one hand in the first place because it is heavy and it takes two hands to control the thing when you pull the pin from any orientation.
Actually with the mount at the butt of the canister it might create a condition of being pinched in place with so much of the mass tilting forward. It "might" stay right there when you pull the pin!