needt4spd member posted that last week when i introduced my 360 MT #If the car doesn't already have one, get a Hill Engineering shift bushing for smoother shifter action. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/01/tugaqery.jpg# I asked my mechanic to order one and will have it install next week . Can somebody who experimented both explain the difference , is that really noticeable? usually when the car is cold going from 1 to 2 gear can be not that smooth, is this part an helper for that ?
OEM is plastic, whereas Hills Engineering is aluminium. The OEM will eventually break, and can cause shifting problems (cannot/difficult to engage certain gears depending on how the plastic arm(s) has broken off). Shifting from cold issues may happen because of a worn synchromesh (fingers crossed this is not the issue), misaligned shift gate housing (yep.. I found out about that by accident when I replaced the center console - unscrew and adjusted a bit, and now shifts into all gears smoothly), or a broken shift bushing. Maybe change the gearbox oil, if you haven't done so. Since swapping to the Hills for close to 3years now, there's been no issues at all. Cheers
I did mine and it marginally improved. When I go in for service next time I will have them do the gearbox oil and I hope for perfection after this!
All of these cars have trouble going from 1st to 2nd when cold. The bushing will not help that. You really shouldn't feel any difference between a brand new OEM bushing and a brand new aftermarket bushing. In time, the OEM ones fatigue and eventually fail (crack or weaken in the joints). As for the transmission oil, I recommend the Redline Lightweight Shock Proof gear oil. No drivetrain chatter and the car shifts like butter. Plus less friction in the gearbox means that your bushing (no matter what brand it is) will last longer.
I think it's only fair to the OP to let him know what Redline says about this particular lubricant: "Avoid use with pumps, coolers, and filters as unique medium and affinity for metal can cause clogging" Of course, our cars don't have a true transmission filter, but they do have a fine screen. And they have a transmission pump and a transmission cooler; i.e. we have all three items which Redline says are not compatible with this type of transmission oil. I use Redline products in my 360, but not Lightweight ShockProof Gear oil. Not to say that it isn't the perfect oil for this application; I'm an engineer but not an oil specialist so I can't say for sure. But I feel uneasy violating Redline's own recommendations. Other people are free to make their own choice, but I think it's important for everyone to at least know the basic facts before they make a selection of which lubricant to use. Until Redline changes their recommendation, I won't use Lightweight ShockProof Gear oil, but others are certainly free to do what they want.
+1. Lightweight Shockproof was put into my car last time but afterwards reading Redline's own warnings, I'm not comfortable using it. Next time I will go with 75W90 GL-5. That's what Redline recommends and also the weight in the Ferrari spec, too, I think. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=58304
Thank all for answers. I did not say I had shifting pb , actually car shifts perfectly but I ll install the hill Aluminum part as suggested. As for oil all the fluids have been done , I ll check which brand and specs, I remember that on my 308 long time ago shifting was almost a sport pressing the pedal required strength . The 360 is like butter in comparison ,
+1. Lightweight Shockproof was put into my car last time but afterwards reading Redline's own warnings, I'm not comfortable using it. Next time I will go with 75W90 GL-5. That's what Redline recommends and also the weight in the Ferrari spec, too, I think. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=58304
So 'Do not use with the F1 system' -- correct? My 30k is coming up so I'm thinking that I should not ask my indie mechanic to use this oil? Alan
how much would it cost my mechanic to install this bushing? i'm thinking about doing it having read many positive reviews from other members.
Total time would take on average an hour, or two at the very most (given how annoying/fiddly it is to remove the big circlip at the side of the shifter). So it's a matter of how much your mechanic charges per hour.
Perhaps I should have been more clear. Both the manual and F-1 transmission/differential units are essentially the same. The lubricant is circulated via a pump through a fine screen filter and the oil passes through an oil/water transmission cooler which used engine coolant to control the temperature of the lubricant. Redline specifically states not to use this particular oil if you have any of these three items; although, it might be argued that a fine screen is not a true filter. Anyway, you get the point. In addition, the F-1 system uses an electro/hydraulic/mechanical shifting system operated with the help of a computer. The hydraulic part of the shifting mechanism gets it's "oomph" from a special pump associated only with the F-1. Don't get this pump confused with the pump inside the transmission which is common to both the manual version and the F-1 version. The pump and fluid used for shifting has nothing to do with the transmission/differential lubricating system. So the question of what is the proper oil for the transmission applies equally for either type. The fluid used in F-1 hydraulic shifting system is an entirely different question.
Back to the topic, I installed the new shift bushing from Hill Engineering on my 360 Spider this evening and had 2 hours of work. Everything was as descripted in the several instructions from this forum. But be aware to have all the needed tools pincer for removing the big circle clip and the pin punch for removing the little bolt on the spring, before you begin. The difference between before and after is really noticeable. I had no problem with the shifter, but a little mechanical tolerance when move the stick in the neutral position. With the new shift bushing everything is perfect the movement accurate, strong and without any tolerance. I can really recommend.
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Craftsman sells a very nice set of roll punches that are good for this type of job, I don't know the actual size of that one though.
I just use a nail. Seriously. Have done this a dozen times (helping local car club members, etc.). Having the right sized punch would be sweet though.
Thank you very much. Can I just use the same pin punch to hammer it back in afterwards? Or do they make another tool to do so?
