LED retrofit, 112 octane fuel, the ONLY one!!

Now that I got your attention let me share................

I have retrofitted all exterior bulbs with LED replacements.....very happy with the results and learned a few tricks and insights along the way.
The first items that I replaced were the old, broken and brittle 2 prong bayonet twist on OEM bulb sockets. I hated to, but I had a couple of new reproductions from Unobtainium...but they both crumbled with very little pressure being exerted on the base of the socket where the metal cylinder is reattached via 3 metal prongs which need to be bent 90* in order to attach the inards that you must reuse from the OEM broken socket. Maybe I got a couple lemons. But not happy with the quality and therefore moved on.
A few years back I searched for a replacement socket that would have just 2 ears and the correct diameter to replace the OEM.......I was unsuccessful, but did find a suitable and affordable substitute......Made by Dorman, Part# 85832, found at AutoZone, Advanced and others for $4.49 each. This socket has 3 ears that will fit into the tail light housing if the large ear is first twisted into the fixture at a slight angle and then by lining up the other 2 ears as the slots align, it holds firm and secure. I even reused the rubber rings from the OEM sockets and they are a better seal that the felt rings that come with the Dorman part.
Now I DID make some changes to facilitate the type LED bulbs I am using. I used the OEM sockets for the turn signals with an LED 1156 bulb (single filament) in each position. But then I found that the signals no longer flashed....they strobed.....not good! After seeing that there were resistors that cost $7 each and that I would need 6-8 of them I started doing some tests?!?! I did NOT want to have the added expense and also soldering in a 1/2 dozen or more of these...didn't want the clutter...so after getting a ohm value I inserted a 25W 8 ohm resistor across the flasher with tails fabbed to wire the resistor into place...........signals flashed a bit slower, but the resistor got way to hot for my liking, the clutter again was a drawback to me and the flash was still a bit rapid...........Then I started to try different flasher control modules......I found one that works at the correct speed, doesn't care if the bulbs are LED or incandescent or a combination of both...NAPA Part# 50-263-3....cost is $14.....But even though the unit plugs right in where the OEM flasher unit once lived (3 male spades), the ground, 12V supply IN, and the right & left turn signal feeds are in different positions.....with center spade on top, the OEM is Ground is left spade, center is 12V out (2 wires) and right spade is 12V supply.......NAPA flasher is left spade is 12V out (2 wires), center is Ground and right is the 12V supply.......so either make tails/jumpers and make it happen or do what I did and using some small, thin and long jawed needle-nose pliers to remove the female spades in the plug itself and reposition them into the proper configuration and it’s done and NO clutter! ALSO....I replaced the OEM sockets with 1157 sockets from Dorman, Why? I could get more light (I think….at least that’s my reasoning) out of the socket with a 2 filament type 1157 bulb versus a single contact 1156 bulb. I just Y'd the 2 hot wires together where originally only 2 wires existed for the OEM socket....does that description make sense? Anyway that's that project.......$105 total for flasher, 8 Dorman sockets, 22 LED bulbs, solder/flux/shrink tubing/tie wraps, and about 6 hours of your labor,

Now the 112 octane racing gas in the tanks! I attended Ferrari weekend at Watkins Glen International a couple weeks ago. Just a couple days earlier I had the fuel system checked and tuned by Pocono Sportscar LLC in Shohola, PA (570) 296-6486. Jim and the other 2 mechanics with names that also begin with a J (must be some kinda weird cult thing) got my car in exactly as promised at 9AM and 1 1/2 hours later had balanced the fuel system and all was in order. Car has always been quite smooth but after their attention it was very, very good...........but.......At Watkins I topped off the tanks with 12 gallons of $8.50 a gallon 112 octane......mixed with 14 gallons of the 91 octane that was just waiting to get some help..............WOW!! The car ran like a watch, not a miss, super smooth and performed like a rocket!! Then the following weekend was Vintage weekend........excellent event, and this time I arrived with the low fuel light glowing.......UN-F'ING BELIEVABLE. The car got even better....my face is still sore from grinning. Oh yeah, that smell, that competition gas smell.......it smells like victory (actually like 112 octane racing fuel)....

And last but not least....while at the 2 events at WGI I never saw a single Testarossa, be it at the track itself, downtown or even at Seneca Lodge. Got alot of attention and comments even for a whiskey dented driver!! I saw Marenellos, 330's, a 250. a 275, a few 308's and lots of racy cars made by Enzo............Astons, Cobras, Bugatti's, Pantera's, 300 SL Gullwings, a Siata, Maserati's, you name it...1000’s of cars ....but NOT ONE TESTAROSSA was in sight but my black redhead...........

Grinning, 112 octane, lit up, exclusive ME

 

Some updates and pix.....

The NAPA part number I listed (50-263-3) must be an "in-house" #. The NAPA # on the module itself is NAPA # 10-573.

I have a pix below of a portion of the Dorman socket I remove. Why do I cut it away? It's just not needed for this application and makes the install a bit moe tidy....

Tech tip: Have you ever noticed that when adding or repairing wires to the exsisting original wires, that even when you cut the old/OEM wire back and strip it that the wire just doesn't want to accept the solder? There seems to be a coating of oxidation or other contaminates that repels the solder.........I take and spray a bit of brake cleaner on the old strands of wire and immediately rub the strands with a cloth and all of a sudden the wire now easily tins right up with solder...

Hope this info is helpful and that the pix are also.

8X10 color glossy's, with circles & arrows, and a paragraph on the back of each one ME
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Now to answer the question about the problems with refitting the guts of a damaged OEM socket into the reproduction.....

As I noted on the pix below there are 3 metal tabs on the galvanized socket and 3 corresponding slots that these tabs need to be inserted into and then bent over towards the center 90* to hold it in place. The problems are many....

The tabs need to be very much vertical, yet have a slight radius/curve horizontally and be pressed into the slots, yet be held in under pressure while one "tries" to bend the tabs over 90* !!!

Next the reproduction material is brittle in comparison to the OEM...the slightest bit of "too much" pressure and/or you slip with the tool your using to bend down the tab(s) and it shatters....easily!!

The OEM galvanized socket insert is very susceptible to warping/flexing/bending out of round when being extracted from the OEM plastic socket. This just complicates even more the end users ability to line up tabs with slots and still have a concentric socket that will hold the bulb properly in place.

Full of excuses ME
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BUT.........some of the motivation to redo the rear housings etc. was to hopefully alleviate a problem that developed about a month ago...........I keep blowing brake circuit fuse (15 amp). I have never had any problem until about 30 days ago...don't know what changed but all of a sudden fuse keeps blowing! Here is what I have done so far:

I have replaced the pedal switch located in the front bonnet section with 2 new ones.

New sockets and wiring from rectangular white socket to the bulbs.

I have now installed a resetting 15 amp breaker to see when the problem occurs...within seconds of applying the brakes the breaker flips...........5 seconds later brake lights are working again.

I'm not the best with 12V electrical systems. So trouble shooting is a mystery. I have alleviated that it is the switch on the pedal. I have refurbished the wiring and sockets from the brake bulb to the rectangular socket that connects to the 6 bulbs (1 reverse, 2 turn, 1 dedicated brake, 1 dedicated tail light and 1 bulb that is 2 filaments that are tail and brake) prior to the rear lighting housing itself.

It seems that if I apply the brakes while sitting idle, engine not running, with the rear hood up they just blaze away.......but as soon as I am driving the problem happens (I need to "ABSOLUTELY" verify this)...

Anyone have any ideas? Set me straight Steve M.!!!!

No brake lights ME

 

Well the mystery is solved....sorta!

As I had mentioned in an earlier post, that the brake lights "blazed" away when i would put a weight on the pedal and have the hood up while working. So I took Turbo's advice and started eliminating wires and bulbs and sockets to try an localize the problem.

I disconnected each of the tailight assemblies one at a time...brake lights (BL) stayed on.

Started the car and let idle with my foot on the BL pedal, stayed on.

Disconnected the BL's completely, breaker 15A held.

Disconnected the center BL on the chiclet/ engine hood, BL's still fine.

Closed the engine hood.....BL's trip the breaker!!!!

The CLOSED hood holds the key!!

I unplug the center BL and the BL's stay on!

I unplug, clean all plugs, areas, strut contact areas and spades, inspect the wiring and find nothing obvious.

Put it all back together....BL's now work correctly, No more blowing fuses, all is well.

Anyone gotta clue as to what the culprit may have been in the hood wiring?

Until next time ME

 

Thanks Tim for reminding me...Aha, now I have something to occupy my Sunday afternoon.....How soon....I forget!!

Dementia ME