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355 wont run - delights of Ferrari ownership!

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Ricard, Aug 5, 2006.

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  1. Ricard

    Ricard Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2004
    867
    Donington Park
    Full Name:
    Richard C
    #1 Ricard, Aug 5, 2006
    Hi

    Scratch head time, any ideas would be appreciated.

    1) Had annual service a couple of weeks ago, also fitted clutch, standard silencer and new cats (after market, metal monolith).

    2) Drove car home from service (20 miles), everything fine.

    3) 2 days later drove car to a party and did a few pleasure trips for the kids, car stood for a few hours (cooled down) - drove home "with spirit" ;) - all in about 70 miles.

    4) Car sat in garage for a week.

    5) Just tried to start it...

    a) Engine turns fine with starter motor, all OK (battery fully charged)
    b) Engine fires as normal
    c) Engine stops after 1 second of running
    d) Tried to start again, engine just turns on starter
    e) Let it stand for 5 mins & tried again -> go back to a) above

    I figure ignition is working as it fires, fuel is in there as it fires, mechanical stuff OK as turning OK & sounds OK. So either new cats or OEM silencer have fully collapsed (unlikely?) and it cant breath through the exhaust (wouldn't it cough and splutter - plus if fully blocked would the starter motor be able to turn it?) or fuel/ignition is stopping once the engine starts? Thinking about it, the 1 second of life I get initially sounds normal re: exhaust so I guess gases are flowing through it OK.

    Any obvious connectors I should be looking at/checking?

    Cheers

    ps. Dosnt appear to be any warning lights.
     
  2. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #2 ernie, Aug 5, 2006
    Check the connections on the MAFS, the crank position sensors, O2 sensors, and the cat temp ecu's. But first check to make sure you have gas in the tank. ;)
     
  3. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,220
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
    #3 PAP 348, Aug 5, 2006

    Yeah......what you said. :eek::p
     
  4. spaghetti_jet

    spaghetti_jet Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2005
    927
    Europa
    Full Name:
    Bob
    #4 spaghetti_jet, Aug 5, 2006
    this sounds very much like the effects of the ignition immobiliser on my 355. I get this exact symptom you describe if I leave the car unlocked. After a fixed time (roughly 5 minutes) the immobilser is activated even though the doors are unlocked. If I try to start the car it will run then cut-out after a few seconds. I need to always "unlock" the doors (even if they are already unlocked) immediately before I turn the engine to deactivate the immobiliser.

    This could be the problem in your car, i.e. you didn't press the alarm, or perhaps there is a fault on the immobiliser connection from the alarm module.

    Other potential fault are the fuel pumps or their relays or fuses. The fuel rail will hold enough pressure for the car to run a few seconds before the pressure drops off. The immobiliser cuts the fuel, hence the start-run-stall symptom.
     
  5. Ricard

    Ricard Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2004
    867
    Donington Park
    Full Name:
    Richard C
    #5 Ricard, Aug 5, 2006
    Thanks guys, got fuel in the tank (over half) - normally if I try to start without de-activating the immobiliser the engine dosnt turn at all...

    Will try all the above when I get back tomorrow night - will also try the 'Microsoft fix' (master switch off for a bit).

    Thanks again.
     
  6. F355Bvc

    F355Bvc Formula 3

    Dec 4, 2003
    1,725
    Lawrenceville. GA
    Full Name:
    Vince Canipelli
    #6 F355Bvc, Aug 5, 2006
    Had a fuel injected 911, did same thing. It was the fuel pump..
     
  7. kuwait355

    kuwait355 Karting

    Jul 9, 2006
    69
    Kuwait
    #7 kuwait355, Aug 6, 2006
    I just got the exact same problem ! The weather is quite hot here, so for some reason I thought the engine was overheated. I put it on a towing truck and took it for a mechanic. I really hope its not the timing belt, because its been almost three years + 20k it hasn't been changed...
     
  8. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    May 21, 2006
    7,926
    West Coast
    Full Name:
    Ray
    #8 RayJohns, Aug 6, 2006
    I never had this problem with my 355, but if I had, the first thing I would do is cut the power from the battery for a minute to clear the ECU's, then try again.

    Do you get any check engine lights?

    Ray
     
  9. kuwait355

    kuwait355 Karting

    Jul 9, 2006
    69
    Kuwait
    #9 kuwait355, Aug 7, 2006
    I didn't get any check engine lights. But there is a problem with the wires connecting to the fuse box...Anyone has any idea what that cost a new fuse box costs ?
     
  10. Ricard

    Ricard Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2004
    867
    Donington Park
    Full Name:
    Richard C
    #10 Ricard, Aug 7, 2006
    Left master switch off overnight going to try again in a bit, engine dosnt run long enough to see if there is a "check engine light" as that stays on for a couple of secs after engine starts anyway.

    Hmmm, after ECU reset it just turns over now (dosn't fire), plus I dont think the fuel pump is firing up when ignition turned on so looks like pump, relay or fuse I guess. Got it booked in later this week - will post back with result.
     
  11. J.P.Sarti

    J.P.Sarti Guest

    May 23, 2005
    2,426
    #11 J.P.Sarti, Aug 7, 2006
    have your tried cycling the alarm?

    My 355 has an Alpine alarm with a valet switch under the dash as well might check to see if your car has any switches as well for your alarm.

    You also might check all your fuses such as fuel pump etc and relays if its not an alarm issue.
     
  12. Ricard

    Ricard Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2004
    867
    Donington Park
    Full Name:
    Richard C
    #12 Ricard, Aug 12, 2006
    Thanks for the response guys, in the end fuel pump relay had popped - total cost of repair £5.36 (about $10) :D

    Just incase anyone searches for fuel pump relay or injector relay (both same) then the Bosche part number has changed from OE.

    Standard part was: BOSCH 0332 014 140

    New number for same part is: BOSCH 0332 014 113

    Plus they are located in the fusebox under the passenger side rubber footplate, you pull the top of the rubber back slightly and pop the 2 fasteners (with a coin or large screwdriver) then the panel hinges down. To re-fit the fastners can be clicked back with fingers only.

    Another point, if you ever think your cats might be blocked then rather than dismantle the car (as I started doing until I thought about it!) just wire the "Cat-bypass" valve open! :D pretty obvious really but I didn't think of it until I started to unscrew the bypass valve vacuum pipe in order to remove the exhaust heat sheild - berk!.

    Cheers all
     
  13. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #13 ernie, Aug 14, 2006
    Glad to hear it was an easy a cheap fix.
     
  14. Ricard

    Ricard Formula Junior

    Jan 23, 2004
    867
    Donington Park
    Full Name:
    Richard C
    #14 Ricard, Aug 20, 2006
    Yup, even cheaper than putting gas in the tank :D

    Thanks for input.
     

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