TR Clutch Slave Service | FerrariChat

TR Clutch Slave Service

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Beta Scorpion, Aug 31, 2006.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Beta Scorpion

    Beta Scorpion Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2006
    1,379
    I searched the archives and FCA site and did not find much. I suspect the '91 TR Clutch' thread disappeared when f-chat crashed a few years ago?

    Any tips or cautions in removing the endbell not covered in the service manual?

    My clutch is fine but the slave drips fluid.
     
  2. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,219
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
  3. FJ1957

    FJ1957 Rookie

    Nov 1, 2005
    40
    WA State
    Full Name:
    Schmedly
    #3 FJ1957, Sep 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I did this a few years ago and even though it took some time (for an amateur) there weren’t too many issues. I took the lower rear valance and the exhaust off. This gave me more elbow room to work with. Exhaust donuts are not cheap from Ferrari but Daniel or your local muffler shop can match them up.

    If you have a parts manual, I recommend you get all the O-rings to include the slave cylinders and rear main seal while you are in there. My problem was leaking also, but from the propeller shaft O-rings at the bottom of the bell housing. They also carry the gear oil to the transfer case from the tranny reservoir. Maybe some of these pictures can give you an idea of what to expect. I recommend you use silicon sealer on all rubber O-rings. You experts please give advice if needed.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  4. Beta Scorpion

    Beta Scorpion Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2006
    1,379
    These photos are great. Any tips on getting the TR up on 4 jackstands? Did you use two jacks? Did you just prop up one end with stands and then jack up the other end?

    Thanks
     
  5. FJ1957

    FJ1957 Rookie

    Nov 1, 2005
    40
    WA State
    Full Name:
    Schmedly
    You will need four jacks stands and a low profile floor lift. This will keep the car very stable throughout the job.

    Loosen the wheel bolts first to remove the wheels later. With the car off the ground, you may want to inspect the brakes and suspension plus, it will give you more room in the back to remove the valance and exhaust.

    I jack the car up one side at a time. Place a small block of wood on the lift pad and place the lift under the rear chassis jack slot in front of the rear wheel. The car is so much heavier in the rear and the chassis is so rigid that the front of the car comes up almost at the same rate as the rear. Jack it up a bit and use two jack stands and place one, (front) at the rear of the wheel well tubular frame. Second, (rear) under the bottom rear side of the tubular engine frame near where it mates to the chassis portion.

    With the jack stands in place, lower the lift and you should hit the front stand first then the rear. Go to the opposite side of car, jack it up some and place two jack stands and repeat from side to side to a comfortable height. Once you are set, take off the wheels and place them under the car for some insurance.

    When I get home later today, I will post some more pic's that may also help.
     
  6. Beta Scorpion

    Beta Scorpion Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2006
    1,379
    Thanks for the post and pictures!
     

Share This Page