Jaguar XKE equivalent to F-Chat

I'll be looking at a 1967 E-type Jag next weekend and would like to know more about these cars before I take the plunge and buy one. Can any of you recommend a website that would provide the same sort of expertise and good advice that we all get from FerrariChat? Vices, virtues, what and where to look for in a roadster version, maybe prices, parts suppliers, and so on.
Thanks and I look forward to your replies.

 

http://www.jag-lovers.org/
Use Top Menu for your choice of navigation around whole site, or, to fulfill your specific needs here and now:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/modelindex.php3#e
Here's a handy-dandy checklist - good for any potential buy:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/technical/used_car.html

 

Here you go mate, have fun.

http://www.jaguar-online.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=0cb702996a094ec423b07bbfea3d73e3

 

Try www.jag-lovers.org. There is an E-type forum there which you can search and get answers to almost all your questions, including what to look for.

I will say this, when buying an old Jaguar, there are three things you have to look for -- Rust, Rust and Rust. Old Jags were not well rust-proofed, and in the XKE, with the monocoque structure the rocker panels on both side essentially hold the car up. If there is noticable rust on the outside, the inside is gone. DO NOT buy a rusty old Jag and expect to fix it up easily or cheaply. Be sure to use a magnet to check the entire body. You don't want a car with body filler in it.

And more importantly, if you don't know anything about old XKE's, find a local expert and have the car looked at. Just like with the Ferraris, a PPI is critical. Compared to an old Ferrari, parts for old Jags are reasonably priced and readily available from a number of suppliers. And they are not hard to work on if you do the work yourself.

Good luck with it. I've owned 4 XKE's over the years, and have a '70 Series II couple right now.

 

p.s. Also check out www.jcna.com. Jaguar Clubs of North America. You don't say where you are located, but there are local Jaguar clubs all over the US. Local folks know what cars are available and can probably give you some history on the car you are looking at, as well as info on good local mechanics, events, etc.

 

Another good place for advice is http://britishcarforum.com. It's not as well subscribed as JagLovers but many of the same folks hang out at both places and you can learn a great deal there. E-type ownership can be hugely satisfying once the car has been properly sorted. My XKE roadster is as reliable as any car I've owned. But it did take frustration, time and money to get there. They're marvelous cars and there's many terrific, helpful people online to help you along the way.

My advice is that rather than taking on a less than stellar example, find the best possible car you can afford. Proper restoration of E-types is very costly. Most owners are well upside down in their cars if they undertook significant projects. In the long run you'll be way ahead of the game. Also, which model year to buy is a personal decision but be aware (for purposes of restoration and purchase) that Series 2 cars 1969-1972 command quite a bit less in the marketplace than Series 1-1 1/2 cars. Series 3 cars (12 Cyl) can be a chore to sort ($$$) and are stylistically quite apart from the earlier S1 models.
Good hunting...
Randy
'68 E-type OTS

 

steve has it right.. I had a 69 e type roadster for over 30 years and rust is the main problem...open the trunk, take out the wood flooring --yes this was oem, take out the spare and look in there for rust and you can get a look at the gas tank as well...also the spoke wheels rust and get wobbly and dangerous and costly to fix but cheap to repalce with new. electricals, simply primitive. check compression, look for rust in the rockers and footwells, if a roadster, I'd look extra careful also the conv. top onthe roadster mounts on a wood tack strip...check there for rust too.. REMEMBER this is a very old car, and don't expect it to be like a new sports car...these small narrow cars are a blast but they are old and auto technology has gone far from then, if you are a big guy, the cockpit is for jockey's. check hte inboard braks and shocks in the rear...these are a pain to replace and there are 4 shocks in the rear alone. have fun take a good look and then by a early 308 with weber carbs...

 

Maybe a little off topic but, I really like the fact that in the world of the XKE, 12 cylinders is not the best!

 

Why is that? my father owns a 72 V12 Coupe and i couldnt imagine the car with a smaller engine, its a big heavy car.

 

Thank you all for the very helpful responses. The first car I'll be looking at later this weekend or next at is a '67 roadster, repainted, rebuilt engine, clutch, suspension and brakes, all done only 4-5K miles ago (but 15 yrs ago!). Basically it's portrayed as a driver that looks quite presentable, and which I prefer since my '89 328 B has only 7K miles and it's quite the papered garage queen. It sounds like the asking price will be just under $30K.
Will report progress as things unfold.

 

My second allegiance is to the xke, I have owned many..

In a nut shell the answer to your question is.
Series 1 HP output was about 264 or more
series 2 Hp was clobered to below 250.
series 3 or v 12 american versions had only 250HP
but the weight incresaed dramatically....
Not to mention smog stuff
The 6 was lighter and the early cars had 1 venturi per cylinder.
The latter 12's had 4 single draft carbs....
Some aftermarket people have used 6 dual draft webers to get back to the
formula that made them great in the first place.

 

I agree with Michael. The car in my avatar is a 1972 Ser. III V-12 E-type. My '70 coupe and '69 roadster (now sold) are both quicker than the V-12. The 12 was great for cruising on the highway, but acceleration and handling is far superior on the 6 cylinder cars. Plus, the 6 cylinder engine is a piece of cake to work on compared with the 12.

BTW, 1967 was a transition year. The early '67s are pure Series I cars, with covered headlights. Mid-year, they "federalized" the car as a transition to the Series II cars. Open headlights, changes on the dash board (old toggle switches were eliminated thanks to Ralph Nader -- you might poke an eye out in an accident if your face hit the dash board I believe the theory went), some other stylistic changes, different bumpers, IIRC. The Series I '67s are generally worth more than the Series 1 1/2 cars, as they have been dubbed.

Good luck and let us know how the car looks. Post a couple of pictures.

 

First, 4-5K miles in 15 years is not a lot, and those cars don't do well just sitting. Look for tell-tale signs of blue smoke from the exhaust pipes when the engine is rev'ed. Also, be sure to take that refrigerator magnet with you and check all of the lower panels carefully, especially the rocker panels from behind the front wheels all the way back to the rear wheels. If it isn't sticking to the rockers, chances are there is filler in there.

Definitely get a PPI. You still haven't told us where you are located (even a state would help). There are a lot of decent Jag mechanics around who can check the car for you. Do not take it to a Jaguar dealer. They haven't got a clue about old cars. You need a good, independent garage to take it to.

 

I keep forgetting to add that I'm in the greater Denver metropolitan area. And, now that you've educated me, the car is a late 67--not really my preference since it doesn't have the beautiful covered headlights that render it so sleek. The minuses keep adding up and I haven't seen it up close or driven it yet!

 

As Long As we are Talking XKE's LOOK AT THESE


http://www.motorclassiccorp.com/MarqueList.cfm?Marque=Jaguar

 

I assume that your question has been answered?

 

The 6 cyl cars are lighter, faster and more nimble than their later 12 cyl brothers.
The covered headlight issue is another E-type thing that provides for lots of interesting exchange among owners. The covered headlights were not particularly good at lighting the road. They often suffer from condensation, which eventually leads to rust. The open headlights fixed the road lighting issue.
I prefer the look of the glass covered lights but in every other significant respect
my "Euro Spec" '68 Series 1.5 is a late Series 1 - same performance, handling, motor, tranny, body, interior, etc. Do not be dismayed if the '67 you are looking at has open headlights. It's really a minor issue when you're sitting in the Captain's chair in the twisties.
Cheers!
Randy '68 E-type OTS

 

peter fino has a 100 pt 67 e type for sale. expensive, but one of the best. go to quattrofino.com, he is a great guy, and a straight shooter. if you come to your senses, he has two daytonas for sale as well.