Adjustable lowering/raising kit for oem Koni shocks

Where is the discrepancy... chassis rails or wheel arches?

Double check all tyre pressures/sizes and lower front ball joints tight etc?

For shock platform upgrade, In Melbourne, use Top performance, Ric Kemp. He fits a locking threaded platform, although Banks in UK do a nicer platform with a finer thread which makes things easier to operate. Don't know for NSW.

But I'd be more worried about fixing the cause, not the symptom, though....

What were your spring free lengths like when disassembled on the bench? What about the rates? Did you test?

It's quite easy to confuse 308 front and rear springs.... the longer spring mounts on the shorter shock absorber... (front), and vice versa... The spring rates are quite similar front and rear... about 200 rear and 180 front, depending a bit on different market/model, but basically close enough to confuse easily.

Also, it's possible you simply tightened the wishbone/shock rubber bushes up with the suspension on droop one side... make sure the suspension is at ride height before tightening bush bolts.

Also, possible one/more shock has seized,... bounce the corners.. all 4 move up and down ok?

Waste of time aligning it with big differences.

FWIW, if you fit the platforms, it's quite a good mod to run the front and rear springs swapped around... but you need platforms to adjust for this.

 

Happy to help...

NEVER assume new parts are ok. Test them. Did you check the rebound adjustment settings of the new shocks before installing them??... (I've never bought new... always rebuilt unless total loss damage or corroded etc). An overly tight rebound can "jack down" a shock.

DON'T leave it as is...

15mm difference side to side is huge.. 4 or 5 is ok (7 or 8 with just driver in)... what's it like with you sitting in it too... even worse probably...?

you need to work out what's happened/why...

Triple check your work... are all the springs seated properly, are the platform collets in correctly, is the car bent?

Quick check would be to swap shocks/springs side to side.. could do that yourself in about 45 minutes each end now it's all clean and you're familiar with it.

Was it wonky before the work? Don't know?

You need to verify if the chassis is wonky too... put it on a race shop flat patch or bodyshop jig/bench and measure some chassis points as per workshop manual (GT4 manual is ok for referance to wishbone pick up heights). Check the corner weights too?

if you leave it as it is, it could handle adversely at the limit, which you may not find out until you do an emergency stop and spin into oncoming traffic instead of pulling up or controlling a slide....

 

I had the six adjustable Konis put on my Boxer, primarily to lower the car. Carobu sent the shocks to Koni for the rebuild. They also used different springs to achieve the ride height I wanted. I am very satisfied.

In the case of the Boxer, the body is hand made, so there is a slight difference in the gap at the wheel arches from right to left. It has nothing to do with ride height, it is the varience in the hand made body. And no, the car was never wrecked. Welcome to the world of hand made exotics.

All you can really do in this case is adjust the ride height at a particular corner of the car to minimize the wheel well gap.

Possibly this is your solution?

 

Hence why I said 4 or 5 mm difference...

15mm is way too much.

Typically, if you have poor panel fit and adjustable ride height, you can even tip the chassis slightly one way to be uneven maybe 2 or 3 mm to level out the panel gaps a bit and bring them closer to each other. (355's are terrible for this)

I would lay a fair bet that the chassis is not level in the same direction a 15mm panel discrepancy indicates.

Aesthetics should NEVER dominate suspension safety.

 

just to clarify... the best way to measure is using a tape measure from the lower lip of the wheel rim, through the centre cap and to the wheel arch.... Don't measure from the ground to the wheel arch.

or, from the flat patch or car jig bench to the inboard control arm bolt centre.

Tyre pressures need to be right of course..

 

If you just had all four shocks replaced, measure each springs wire diameter with a calipers (or count the coils).

Make sure you dont have one rear spring on the front, and the missing front spring on the rear. It happens more often than you think.

JM

 

your unloaded height is simply the shock travel on full droop. You need to dismount the springs to measure free length and rate them.

Sorry, there are no short cuts... dismount them all and check again, i'm afraid.