328 door locks go down then up again when trying to lock

Thank you guys and a BIG THANK YOU to Carl Rose. He sent me his article on removing the inside door panel of a 328. I can't express enough how easy and straightforward his directions are. It's a must for anyone trying to tackle a door job on their car.

Okay, now that I have the door panel off and all of the inside bits exposed, exactly what should I do while I'm in there? I have heard both WD40 and graphite grease recommendations. Should I use one or the other or both? How much of each. I just want to clean and then re-lubricate all of the mechanical pieces so that the door locks will work properly again. I'm going to remove the passenger door panel as well today and then really get the process moving forward. Thank you guys for all of the help. I love being able to accomplish these projects on my own!

 

WD40 will clean out the old gunk, but it's not a lubricant. You could slap some white grease in there, but it would likely collect more dirt over time. The graphite lube I use comes in an alcohol suspension, so it cleans and lubes in one go, but it drips black fluid all over. (Thus: the paper towels)

I didn't even need to take the door panels off on mine, I just dripped the stuff into the latch mechanism, and wiped it up wherever it dripped out.

 

And this is available at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc? Is it just called graphite lube?

 

If clean and lubed, check the adjuster on the rod attaching the lock barrel to the locking mechanism. I had to adjust mine after taking the door lock out. Once tweaked, everything works fine from inside and from the key. Of course, the part I am talking about is exactly BEHIND the window track in this photo! -rick
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Most of the graphite products have vanished from the auto stores, although many still carry the alcohol-only "lock deicer". (There used to be a version with graphite, which is what I used on the Alfa.)

For the Ferrari, I use the non-aerosol liquid version: Panef "Lock Lubricant (graphite formula)": http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u363689

I found it at a large Ace Hardware in Hudson, MA. But checking the Ace hardware web site, they don't have the same thing listed. The closest they show is the dry power version: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295694&cp=&origkw=panef&kw=panef&parentPage=search&searchId=19665084062

For the dry version (which can clump) there a teflon alternative: http://www.lockpickshop.com/p-LAB-Lube.html. But given some of teflon's odd thermal qualities (ask Apollo 13), I'd rather stick with the graphite.

(Although a google of "locksmith supplies" would seem to indicate that many locksmiths have gone to aerosol PFTE (teflon) lubes. Although they're more expensive.)

I think the original aerosol and liquid versions are disappearing from the stores because of the potential results of carelessness with a combination of graphite, alcohol, and (for the aerosol) propane. (Ever since that woman spilled McD's coffee in the car ...) (It's getting tough to find 1/32" drill bits too (for printed circuit cards).)

Further web research also indicates that Panef is a packaging firm, so they don't actually make the product, just the bottle it comes in (and then redistribute under their own name). Their site indicates that they market products through Sears, TrueValue, Ace, and "DoItBest" stores. (Although not all will necessarily have the graphite stuff. -- They also sell a fanbelt conditioner and other stuff.)

Update: apparently True Value also carries a graphite lubricant in both liquid and aerosol form from "Lock-Ease".
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Today I bought what turned out to be a powder version. It does say that it's for locks so I assume this will work. Am I correct?

 

The powders (graphite, teflon) will lubricate, but won't clean.

I've seen some locksmiths recommend against using WD40 for a cleaner, because it stays around and collects dirt. A good alcohol cleaner (you can get 16oz of rubbing alcohol at the drug store for a buck) will clean out the gunk and disappear completely.

That's why I like the graphite in alcohol combination. 'Cause I'm lazy.

But anything that gets the mechanism moving freely is "good enough".
(There are others who swear they've never had trouble with WD40.)

 

I did it! Much to my own surprise I was able to get both door panels off, clean and lubricate the locks, and put it all back together. And the best part is that it all works!! The locks actually lock again. It's unreal! Thanks to all who helped. You guys are great! I think I am going to keep the car a bit longer now.

 

Dang, another cheap "fixer-upper" gets away.

 

Good to hear. This site is great in making you a DIYer. Congratulations, now go drive it.

Dan

 

Thanks again guys! Trust me, I will be driving it a lot. I drive my cars all year long.