I replaced some of the large coolant hoses with some straight Gates Green Stripe hose. The old hose was in pretty good shape without any cracks. It was a little aneurysmal though. My impression was that these hoses had been replaced previously. The original SIMPLEX French hose clamps were missing on most of the hoses. The inside of my coolant pipes was very clean. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After hose replacement this stud no longer rubbed on the pipe. There was an old weld mark, as if this pipe had been repaired at one point. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Two more hoses that were replaced on the passenger side. I also replace the lower hose between the banks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also replaced the hoses on the crankcase vapor system. These hoses came from Superperformance UK. After these photos were taken they were painted black to make them darker. The clamps were from Eagleday. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This front hose was easy to replace. It may have been an original as the original hose clamps were still in place. Again the hose did not have any cracks in side or outside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The three short hoses on top of the passenger side fuel tank were replaced. They are hard to see. This picture is from the ground looking up. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Photograph of the engine getting ready for re-assembly of some of the components. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah! GO Beta-scorpion; I've just come across this thread for the first time and I just love that you are doing such a great job on what was what I call an 'orphan' car (ie no-one really loved it). My car was also an 'orphan' but unfortunately I don't have your skills and so just have to work through stuff with the workshop as I can afford it. I like to think it is in way better shape now than when it came into my care. Well done and I know you'll really enjoy this car and it will reward you with loyal service I'm sure. Cheers!
The GT4 came to me with only copy keys; no originals and no key codes. KeysForClassics.com was able to get my key code from a scanned photo of the keys and make a 'new' set of keys. The blanks are not original Neiman, but they are better than what I had. They also had a nice key blank for my Scorpion. The scorpion came with an original key, but it looked like someone's dog chewed on it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The last part to get painted was the oil separator. Here it is ready to be put back on the car. I filled the car with Prestone 50/50 coolant. I used 20w50 Oil and it took about 10 quarts. Added a new Baldwin oil filter also. The fender liners were scrubbed clean but not re-painted. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I decided that my car probably came with Red plug wires, so I purchased a new set to replace the black wires. The front bank was easy to do, I just unbolted the keeper and pulled the wires. The new wires were already threaded through a new keeper. I replaced the wires on the cap and then bolted it back together. Tomorrow I will try to give the carbs a final tune and then replace the airbox. Using a long screwdriver and long fingers to feel the heads of the screws I am able to get to all 8 mixture screws with the airbox in place. I can also get to both idle stop screws. The only carb tuning I cannot do with the airbox on is to set the adjustable link between the front and rear bank carbs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't know if the old pictures will show up again. I have saved all the pages in this thread (so I can make a CD of it that will be part of 14582s documentation. I will wait and see if the old photographs appear again, otherwise I can re-post.
Rob said that all the photos should come back in a few days, maybe sooner. It would be a shame if they were all lost.
Big sense of accommplishment today as after putting things back together, it starts up and idles and runs great. So, initially when I got the car, I tore through the ingnition and fuel system just to get it running. Now, months later, after going through everything with a 'fine tooth comb' I have brought the drivability and performance up to the next level. I am probably over 90% done. The list of things never ends, but they are getting less important and can be done over the next few years or so. I started restoring the 1976 Scorpion in 1981 and this GT4 has set a new standard for the garage, I need to improve some things on the Scorpion now. Here is a short list of things that I am considering doing in the future for the GT4: Fix the glove box door Paint black behind the throttle pedal Repaint the duct for the oil cooler Buff out the clearcoat on the entire car Take the front and rear bumpers off and strip them and repaint if neccessary Repair the coaxial cable for the antenna Buy the little plastic fuse and bulb holder and fill it with bulbs and fuses Buy a leather owner's manual pouch Get the spare belts for the jack bag Clean up the area around the radiator and spare tire Get an XWX on the spare and have the spare refinished Fit new seatblets but keep the original latches I finally joined the FCA after putting it off for so many years. I would like to show the car as I went to great trouble to put it back to original specifications. I suspect there are not many of the 'smog' GT4s with engine compartments as accurate as mine (if there are some out there I would love to see them at a meet). Looking at the 2006 FCA concours results there are no 308 GT4s listed as award winners. None in 2005, and in 2004 a 1975 308 GT4 got a Platinum in the "Late 2+2" Class. Nothing in 2003 and in 2002 a 1978 308 GT4 won the "NATIONAL CLASSIC PRESERVATION AWARD - Best Unrestored Ferrari 1974-1987" Award. The FCA site does not give info before 2002, I need to look at the old 'Prancing Horse' newsletters to go back further in time. Well, we will see how things go. I can remember in the Late 70s/Early80s when there were so many GT4s I thought they had Series I and Series II classes but I am not shure how I can find information on these old meets. I suspect not many GT4s 'come out to play' these days.
I told them to put the wheelweights near the outer edge of the rim, as shown in the owner's manual, however, the weights interfered with the ends of the A-arms on the rear. I put new weights at the area indicated in the picture and there was no interference. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Most of the fuel pump pictures in the GT4 owner's manual describe the Corona pump. However, the picture of the radio wiring diagram shows a Facet pump. Image Unavailable, Please Login
These valve stem caps were from the local BMW dealer. 75 cents a piece. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have two sets of aircleaner thumbscrews. The brass reproduction ones do not fit. The threads are too small in diameter. The ones shaped like a hat look similar to the ones in the Car and Driver photograph. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I went to the trouble to clean these intake trumpets so I figured I should show them. I have been using an 8mm nut driver to install and remove the trumpets. Each one has 4 flat washers and 4 locking nuts. This hardware is supposed to be gold cad. plated. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine now as compared to when I first got the car. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now that the engine is somewhat finished I am working down the list of things to do. The glove box has always been stuck in the closed position. When I first got the car I took it apart and it went back to being stuck. This time we are going to fix it for good. The spring has come off of it's keeper and is jamming, keeping the levers from opening all the way. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I could easily put the spring back in its keeper, but as I move the arm that hold the glovebox door back and forth the spring comes out of the keeper and then moves up and jams the mechanism. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
