1979 308 GT4

I'm loving this thread by the way, keep it coming!!

Birdman

 

Nice diagram, thanks for posting.

I was kind of making an 'educated guess' as to which idle size jets to try. I think people have posted they use somewhere between 50 and 60 for 'stock' engines. So I choose 55. Also, the book 'Weber Carburetors HP Books (BB-HP774)' actually lists the specs for the 308GT4 in its glossary in the back and they list 55. It may make a difference as to which carb also (as the progression holes were different on the different spec 40DCNFs.)

Some day, when 308s are million dollar cars, someone will have some 3-D graphic reconstructions of all the different 40DCNF series carbs that explain how and why they are different.

I had wanted to make a list of all the 40DCNF types that came on the GT4; so far I have these from the 1979 parts manual.

72,73,74,75 USA (series III)
64,65,66,67 Aus.
73/100,74/100,75/100 Japan (no 72/100?)

This is from the 308 shop manual:
35,36,37,38

I do remember a thread somewhere where someone wanted to replace one type of DCNF with another type and I thought I read that there were more differences than just the progression holes, but I may be wrong. All the brass jets can be interchanged but I think #20 in the diagram above is part of the housing and is not 'adjustable'. It would be interesting to know if this air metering jet is different between the different DCNFs listed above.

 

Beta,
(As "the other F-chatter", thanks for the tires--they were just as advertised)

I have also just bought a set of 55 idle jets too to install in my '75 GT4. In there right now are (drilled) 60s and fellow F-chatters driving behind me say that my car smells "rich". Rich is OK when accelerating hard, but when at light throttle cruising prefer the mixture to be "right". As mentioned above, light throttle criusing around town is on the idle jets. So hopefully a dropdown from 60 to 55 will be the ticket.

Incidently last year I changed AC jets from 200 to 180, with a noticeable improvement in high RPM high load. (Mains are 130). If 160 or 170 were available I probably would have tried them. It is not good to be lean at max power and RPM, and AC jets are designed to work (help) under those conditions. The mains seem to work very well with very satifying mid-range response and power.

BTW Next time I will buy my jets again from a Weber supplier for a better price.

Martin

 

Betascorpion...sent you a pm on an unrelated matter? Still interested?

 

I have no clue what the differences between the different "lines" of the 40DCNF cars are either. My USA '77 had .55 idle jets as stock, but it runs better with .60s. Way better.

I have talked to two different carb experts at Ferrari places that insisted that modern fuels need slightly richer jetting than the fuels that were available when these cars were new. I have no idea why, nor do I know if it's true, but two different people told me this.

Also, if you are running with a better flowing exhaust or an opened up airbox then you will need to richen up a tad too. I think a lot of people fall into this category.

Birdman

 

A few months ago I tried ordering from Wurth USA and they said I had to have a wholesale account bla bla bla so I was never able to order anything from them. They do carry the mini-serflex clamps that are on all the vacuum lines. I have most of my clamps but am missing at least 5. Most of the ones I have have some corrosion.

Anyway, the Wurth listing is here: www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=07.0179.jpg

I called them again today and surprisingly, they were able to take my order and ship out 25 (minimum) of the small 7-11mm clamps!

I figure if I have any left over I can sell them on e-bay.

Also, someone in the Europe F-chat area responded to a post of mine that he may be able to get the larger Serflex clamps.

 

Well, the Gemi clamps are easier to get than the Serflex clamps. I was able to get packs of 10 of three sizes of Gemi clamps from International Autoparts. They came in the mail yesterday.
http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=2475&posid=1912361

I plan on using these Gemi clamps on most everything for now, and replacing them with original Serflex if the above mentioned contact in France works out.

 

Finding a Pouch for the manuals has been not so easy. I have only seen one of the correct type for sale...but still lookinig. In the mean time I have come across a lot of GT4 literature on ebay which I have purchased. These two just came in yesterday.
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Got my Mini Serflex Clamps (these go on the small vacuum hoses and the smaller EVAP hoses). Looks like they changed the clamps. They used to not have the perforations. Guess I will put the new ones in more hidden locations and put the original ones in the visible locations.
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It is getting cold outside. Not too much I can do without a heated garage.
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Here is another piece I got from e-bay. I am probably paying too much for this stuff but I think it should all be with a GT4 and not sitting on some collector's shelf.
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True Dat

 

I noticed my rear headrests are too close to each other. Previously I had investigated this and I could not find any holes different than the presumed 'original' holes.

I have been wondering "why are they so close. Did they not put them in the wrong spot?"
But just today I saw a picture of a car with the rear lid off. It looks like the two studs on the headrests are designed to be OFF CENTER (I could not appreciate this with my rear lid in place). This would imply that my headrests are just reversed right for left. If I swap them side for side then they should be back in the correct position.

I'll have to check this when I get home today!
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Another e-bay purchase came today. This one came from England. This one is really nice. I love the telephoto shots of the car. In fact I actually bought the telephoto lens for my Horseman 6x9 just to take pictures of the car. Have not used it yet due to the poor weather.
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Finally getting around to fixing the trunk lid on #14582. My trunk lid is steel, and I suspect most others are also steel? Anyway, the spring mechanism is just not strong enough to hold the thing up. I did a search but did not find anything. I was wondering if anyone had this problem and what was done to make it better?
The main problem here is that the broom handle that I use to hold the front lid of the testarossa is too long for the GT4.

 

Yes, the headrest mounting bolts are offset, just swap them to get them aligned with the seats.

The trunk prop is just like a Fiat (probably the same part). As mentioned above, you can bend it a little to increase the tension. Check the little "knob" that the prop runs in, sometimes they will have grooves worn in them and the prop doesn't get "spread" enough. Rotating them 1/4 turn will help.

 

Hi, Thanks for the reply on the trunk prop. One question, my knob is very loose and it hangs down under the spring tension which may be contributing to the problem. The small shaft the knob is on is very loose, like it is not fully attached to the lid. Could you post a picture of how the knob is held to the deck lid?

 

Glove box=done
Black behind throttle pedal= done
Clean umparea around radiator and spare tire= done
Cleaned spare and spare wheel they look pretty nice will keep for now

More to do:
Swap the passenger headreasts right for left
Paint the protector clear coat on the steering wheel
Figure out how to get the reverse light assembly off the bumper to fix the bulb socket

Odd parts needed:
Horizontal strap for passenger side fuel tank with hardware
Shroud for throttle pedal

 

I looked at my trunk support, not much to it. A 6mm dia. rod is welded to the trunk frame and acts as an axle for the plastic roller which is held on with a cotter pin. The spring legs are parallel along the straight section when you squeeze them together (spring removed from car).

My car is 30 miles away in an unheated garage out in the country. With the temperature in the single digits both me and my camera failed to work properly so the photos are not very good. I did a quick drawing of the spring dimensions in it's un-installed state.

I hope this helps.
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I think this answers my problem. The rod on my trunk lid is no longer firmly attached to the trunk lid, causing it to sag.

 

Here is a picture, where now I see that the post, on which the plastic 'wheel' is mounted is loose. This allows the trunk to sag down past the point at which the spring is strong enough to hold it up. If you get a chance (when it is warmer) it would be nice to see how the post is welded to the trunk lid. Somehow mine is still attached and wobbling, even though the weld has fractured.
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I checked again last night just to be 100% sure and my trunk lid skin is non-maganetic but the frame inside is magnetic. I assume the skin is aluminum. I have a 1975 Series 1, so perhaps this is another area where the later series cars gained a little weight. All three lids on my car are not magnetic - hood, engine lid and trunk lid. Just curious if your other two lids are steel also. I forgot to check the door skins, oh, but they're rusting, so they're steel. I wonder what the weight difference is between the two. I'll have to weigh mine to see what it weighs before I put it back on the car.

 

Correctamundo!
All 3 lids on Series 1 cars are aluminum

 

So it looks like the series I has an aluminum trunk lid. I will have to check this series II lid with a magnet to be shure, but it certainly feels quite heavy. Of course, my lid may have been replaced at some point along the way.

 

Tested it today; no question, the trunk lid is steel! I wonder if all series II/III have steel trunk lids?