Heel and Toeing

I have theirs but I am not sure what you are asking.

Mine mounted over the slippery OEM pedals (about same size), and I opted for the rubber inserts which made a huge difference. I don't think yu'd want anything bigger than the OEM unless you have an F1 tranny.

I don't miss any shifts now.

I could check my invoice tomorrow at my office and let you know the exact model I purchased.

 

Huh?

 

Shows: #326 gas pedal w/ left side extension
#322 brake/clutch

frosted finish anti-slip with domed grip inserts

Tjhese are for a 2000 360.

Your Mondial would be different.

 

As I have been practicing heel/toe for a few years (and getting pretty good at it now!) I opted for the wider gas pedal for my ultimate pedals, because I felt that the narrow stock pedal was hard to heel/toe. I have been extremely happy with the wider gas pedal and find it improves the heel/toe significantly.

Help this helps.

Birdman

 

It depends on the size of your foot, for starters Next is the contact points where you "heel/toe" which may actually be "toe/toe" i.e. ball of big toe on brake, ball of little toe on gas pedal.

 

The safety issue comes from the increased grip of the finish and the rubber inserts.

The gas pedal extension is a help since the OEM is so slim.

The feature I was after most was preventing missed shifts from foot slippage. That I have achieved.

I double clutch the gear box up and down the range on a regular basis, and these pedals make that action much easier. These are very well made pedals.

I know Hill has their own style as well (through Ricambri), but I don't know if they include rubber inserts.

 

Definitely worth it! This is why I bought the Ultimates. I was not sure that Hill offered them. In fairness I did not inquire of him.

BTW, Hill's products are very good, and Paul Hill is very good about communicatiing. He was invaluable when I was sourcing rear wheel spacers and new bolts.

I think, therefore, that for me the rubber inserts were very valuable.

 

Good point. I'd really like to know how anybody truly heel/toe's in a 360 or 430. I can see toe/toe, but not heel/toe.

 

It is more toe/toe, but it's definitely not tom/tom!

 

Why double-clutch on the upshift? A standard synchro-mesh gearbox doesn't have to do this.

 

Heel/toe is the original way it was done...it just refers to the technique nowadays. Kinda like gas pedal...really it regulates the air into the motor, not the gas

 

It shifts much smoother.

 

I didn't realize the Ferrari transmission was so different than other cars on the road because in a standard tranny that makes absolutely no sense.

 

Maybe to you.

 

Here's a page I recommend to those who don't understand rev-matching and double-clutching. Not saying you are inexperienced but sometimes people don't completely understand and this will help with terminology, engine/transmission operation, and procedure.
http://318ti.org/notebook/shifting/index.html

My experience:
For me, whether I'm racing my Jetta in SCCA Solo II or daily-driving, cruising long distance in my old Squareback, or carving corners in my Porsche, I've never had the need to double-clutch an upshift (e.g. 2nd to 3rd)...especially if time was of concern. In all the years I've been in various forums, I've never heard of a valid reason to double-clutch an upshift in a modern day car.

My question (and I really do want to understand):
Can you (or anybody else) please explain to me how double-clutching a modern Ferrari (of all the cars!) on the upshift is going to be smoother than a standard shift? Also, if this process is true, does the F1 double-clutch on the upshift as well (I know it does it on the downshift)? Do you mean heel/toeing, as in braking while pressing the gas pedal down at the same time? Because I understand that.

 

Heel and toeing on up shifts makes no sense

What you are trying to accomplish with heel and toeing is match engine revs to transmission revs before engaging the next gear. Syncros accomplish this by speeding up or slowing down the gears, heel and toeing accomplishes it by speeding up the engine, but this only applies to downshifts.

On an up shift you want the engine revs LOWER than they were in the previous gear, not higher.

For example on a 355 F1 the drop in RPM between 2nd and 3rd is 2162 RPM. This means that either the engine must slow down 2 thousand revs, or the syncros must speed up 3rd gear to match the engine revs.

Maybe a very slight hesitation in neutral to let the engine slow down before completing the up shift is smoother, but that’s not heel and toeing

I don’t know if Greg is blipping the throttle on up shifts, he didn’t say, he just said he was double clutching which is not the same as heel and toeing

 

I learned the blipping the throttle method when I used to race bikes. You brake with two fingers and work the throttle with two fingers.

When I started driving sports cars I learned toe/toe. Now that I've been doing a little racing other racers tell me toe/toe is risky because you are breaking so hard you risk having the ball of your foot slip off the brake pedal. I didn't think it was major concern until I saw a video last week, it was probably on youtube. Some guys in Japan were racing ferrari's I think there wsa an F50, a 355 and I don't remember what else but the cameras were focused on their feet. They were braking really hard and just mashing the throttle with their heel. I'll see if I can find the video.

 

I am double clutching and it shifts beautifully every time.

 

OK Carlo..........either toe the line or we'll have to bring you to heel