The ultimate definitive carbs driveability poll

This is where injection is better. In around town driving, the transition between idle jet and main jet can be a little "disjointed". This can be tweaked to a degree with jetting and air correctors. Also, believe it or not, there is a learning curve to driving a carb car. When you drive it a lot, you get the feel for how to apply throttle in a way that makes the carbs respond. I can't really describe it, but the carb guys will know what I'm talking about. It's a lot different than an injected car which has a very linear, predictable response and can be driven like a Camry. Jumping from a modern injected 348 into a 308 will require a little practice to be able to drive it well. Not to mention that the throttle cable in a carb 308 is pulling on 4 carbs linked together: 4 throttle return springs and 8 butterfly valves. It's physically harder to push the pedal down and that translates to a different "feel" which requires practice. (It makes heel and toe exercises easier in my opinion because the gas pedal isn't too touchy).

A lot of people say their carb car starts right up, but even there, the carb cars are much different than an injected car. A carb car only starts right up when started correcty. I always say to my wife that nobody can steal my 308 because they won't be able to start it. It starts right up only for someone that knows how. An injected car you just get in, turn the key, done. Our Mondial start this way 100% of the time no matter what the temperature, from 0 degrees outside and a stone cold engine to 90 degrees outside and a searing hot engine. No gas pedal, nothing. Just turn the key.

The carb 308 however needs to have the fuel pump run for 15 or so seconds to fill the float bowls, then a couple pumps of the pedal to squirt some raw fuel into the venturis (no wonder they don't need choke!) and then hit it. My car prefers that I do not touch the gas pedal at ALL when cold. Just a couple pumps of the pedal, then turn the key. When warm, it likes a couple squirts then a teeny amount of pedal while I turn the key. It's all part of knowing the car. My point is that carb cars seem to have a little bit of personality and each owner knows that personality well. The carb car might start right up for you, but toss the keys to your wife and see how well it starts for her!!

Birdman

 

I totally agree with Birdman.
'77 Carb. dry sump #22101 and still with points.
Runs greate and none of those problems,three stamps on the trottle and the engine runs even smooth.Rob

 

Rob, I got 22393. Closely related! Only 146 cars apart on the line!

Birdman

 

Yes, I think that are one of the best made cars in line. See You.

p.s. Sorry to say but my fusebloks are still in good shape sinds new 30 years ago.

 

Oh don't worry. The circuit that runs your cooling fans will melt soon enough.

 

Have owned my '79 308 GTS for 17 years; only backfires on shutdown causing bystanders to run for cover thinking they are in the midst of a drive-by shooting! It's really loud! Otherwise, none of the options listed have dogged my car. Keeping everything adjusted perfectly-especially the ignition-makes it happen. I also bought a distributor machine so I can keep the distributors in tune--services available...

 

you never know but my car has already 84000 miles on the odo.

 

You left off none of the above! I'd check that box, believe it or not its true!

Cheers!

DT

 

Fourcam, try slowing the engine with the clutch just as you turn off the ignition, so the RPM is lower. You will probably find that it doesn't do it. My experience is that my car does this if the idle is too high. Interestingly, I get a tiny hint of it from the injected Mondial too occasionally.

 

Having driven my first 3,000 miles since purchasing my 78 GTS I haven't really experienced any of those problems, although my car was converted to Crane electronic ignition. I am so glad I went with the carbed car and not a later fuel injection (82 GTS and 84 GTBQV) having driven both. My only possible complaint would be the warm up time required for the oil temp. The 83 GTB QV was a beautuful car and is for sale again at Berlinetta Motors http://www.berlinettamotorcars.com/test12a.htm.

 

I do have to say, I grew up with carbs and points. But the carbs I grew up with were total crap. Hollies, Rochesters, Carters. But even those, as crude as they were, were simple and really easy to keep operating. I suppose its like a lawnmower, or an old outboard motor, just a carb and some points. When the carb is set correctly, and your ignition is timed and functioning, there is almost no issue you would notice over a modern car. Many of your grandmothers and great grandmothers grew up driving cars with carbs and points. My mom never really had any trouble driving those older cars. I'm sure if those old ladies could do it back in the 50's, they could surely handle your carbed Ferrari.

The main issue that has plagued carbed cars, and especially ones with multiple carbs, is that there are really very few people working in a shop that can make them work. Carbs seem to mystify people. If the best you can find is some clown that can barely tune a Holley, you will NEVER have him get your Ferrari running right. If it was so simple there wouldnt have been so many that ran bad over the last 30 years.

Paul~
77 308 GTB #21181 build #277 march of 77
77 308 GTB #21645 build #311 may of 77

 

Not a 308, but I've had every symptom listed and have eliminated all of them with correct tuning. And my Strombergs are crap compared to Webers so if I can do it, you can too. If a Weber car isn't running right, you need to give it to a guy who knows what they're doing. As stated here, once they're right they run great and stay in tune a long time. Mine, OTOH...well let's say one needs to like to tinker if they expect 10/10ths from Strombergs day in and day out.

Ken

 

Put me down fo none of the above in a '79 GTB. The only issue I have is a lean spot when I roll into the throttle from cruse at 60-70 mph in 5th. I don't think Ferrari intended this to be the normal driving mode for this car. More like roll into the throttle at 120 mph in 5th.

In town driving is no problem if you blip the throttle a bit and toe heal (and if you can't, you shouldn't be driving a carbed Ferrari).

 

He gets it. Blipping is key.

 

i think that is a weber specific problem. i remember reading something about this in the context of a lambo espada. not sure there was a work around.

john

 

75 GT4
Nnon of the above. But I do have some hestation off of idle. I will have to tune the carbs one of these days. I have learned to live with it. But mid range throttle reponse is excellent.

 

Hey, just a curious question.(sorry for the topic change).
Mine is #20757, but it is a 80 308 GTS Euro(carbed w/electronic ignition stock). Shouldn't I have a higher number than 21645 or something like that?


Thanks,
Eric

 

On the GTB register ( http://www.r-design.net/308/index_e.html ) #20757 is listed as a 1977 GTB, but has a line saying the number is now on a GTS. Let Robert Retzlaf ( mailto:[email protected] ) know what you have, perhaps he may have some info to help straighten out the registration.

What build number do you have? There is a number between stars stamped in the welded on bracket the ignition coals attach to. ( * XXX * )

 

Rob I have 77 GTB #22103 & I believe Ferrari used odd numbered series I believe we have consecutive cars! Small world!
Bill

 

My car also has no problems, although on first start from cold she takes a short while to settle down, a few pops through the exhaust

I love that moment it all goes smooth,
10 minutes later and she is ready for action! :0)

Mark

 

Thanks, Birdman. As you suggest, this shutdown/backfire issue seems to be related to idle speed/richness. Opening the idle mixture screws too far (so as to pass emissions) allows too much raw fuel into the intakes and/or if the throttle plates aren't in the perfect position, pop she goes. Not to hijack the thread, but this isn't really a "driveability issue" as much as an embarrassing annoyance!!!

 

I have #23227 1977 308 GTB

December 1977 build.


My car starts and runs great, the only exception being in corners, when I seem to lose fuel pressure.

I have a new stronger fuel pump from Superformance UK. I'm considering installing it to possibly help this problem.

What's maximum safe fuel PSI? About 4-5?

Or, is my problem caused by gravity acting on the fuel in the bowls?


Greg

 

fuel starvation in the corners is due to centrifugal force

 

Well that sucks...

So there's no fix?