Newbie - stupid question time.

One out of two - not bad !!

Actually I suspect the other is quite intersting

 

Lots of differences between 206 and 246 including:

Engine: 2L vs. 2.4L
Body: 206 is all aluminum vs. partial/all steel for 246
Length: 206 is slightly shorter
Age: 206 is '67-'69, 246 is '69 onward
Exterior: exposed fuel filler cap on 206 is the obvious difference. Straight wheel knockoffs (instead of bolt on wheels) used on all 206 but some early 246 as well.
Interior: differences including steering wheel, head rests, choke switch
Engine: differences including cam cover material, location of fuel filter, markings on air filter box
Performance: 206 is a higher reving car

246GT vs 246GTS

Big difference is the removable targa top on the GTS (S stands for Spyder).

 

Also (although not exactly what you're asking), another difference is rarity. Only 150 or so 206's were built, while there were over 3,700 246's. (The numbers I have are 2487 for the 246GT, and 1274 for the 246GTS ... other sources probably vary by a few.)

 

Hi Stu,

You may want to check out a very interesting website, The Dino Register
http://www.dinoregister.com/production.php
Although a very controversial topic, "The Most Desirable" version will be hotly debated. Many will state the GT car holds it lines better and the added body length to produce the later GTS models was a styling aberration. Others may counter with the claim that open top motoring in a Ferrari is as close to heaven as possible.

As far as rarity in production options goes, The Dino Register has only 145 "Chairs and Flares" version cars which were factory equiped with Daytona style seats with inserts and wider wheel fenders holding the optional Campagnolo "Elektron" wheels (most of these were GTS cars). These cars seem to be leading the pack in pricing but they also tend to have the electric window and A/C options.

These cars are amazingly sturdy, quick and reliable if driven regularly (they have the ATE brakes that you may be familiar with from similar Porsche cars).
There are a few things that owners can do to increase that reliability and performance; such as a modern aftermarket electronic ignition system providing a hotter spark, new generation spark plugs, and exhaust upgrades (Tubi, etc). Tires and wheels are also subject to upgrade but are somewhat controversial as they affect asthetics.

Hope this helps.

 

Many 206 parts are not interchangeable with the 246 but many are. The rareity of the 206 will be factored into the higher purchase price. Because the 206GT is all aluminum, rust is less of a factor. Given the small number of 206GT cars, how rarely they trade hands and the varying condition of those whic do surface, FML probably doesn't feel they warrant tracking separately.

Of course, the 246 is rare in relative terms to current Ferraris and other autos of the day. The first 357 246GT cars are commonly referred to as "L" series and have some 206 features with 246 mechanicals. That's what I've got and I'm a big fan of them.

Neither 206GT or 246GT are trouble free but proper maintenance delivers satisfying ownersing. Finding a well maintained or completely restored car will be key.

Best of luck.

 

Wheelbase too, right?

 

Correct ... about 60 mm longer on the 246.

 

I used to live in Burlington, VT and worked in Vergennes, VT. I see your profile says you are in VT too. Why not check out the Markowski's shop, I see they have a Dino Gt for sale too:
http://www.rpmvt.com/

Has those really cool knockoffs too
http://www.rpmvt.com/ForSale3.html

 

The car which RPM has for sale is one of few "L" series 246GT cars I've seen for sale recently. To fully restore an "L" series car, you would easily pay $150K or more on top of the purchase price of the car. I think a perfect car could approach $200K from the right buyer. Consider the fact that tools, jack bag and a complete pouch is probably $15-20K if you need/want to make a complete car.

I find it hard to believe that a guy who restores concours Porsches would be happy with just a "driver" but if so, all the power to you. If you wanted an unrestored car, you would be hard pressed to find one car for less than $70K. Euro70 who contributes to this forum bought one not too long ago - he's probably a good person to ask.

So, somewhere between $70K and $200K, you'll find an "L" series car. If Steve's car doesn't float your boat and you can't find another "L" series car, I'm sure you can find an "M" or "E" series car (the series which followed the "L") and buy the best you can provided records can support the price.

Lastly, I agree with Robert regarding Dino parts - it's tough sourcing NOS parts (and reproduction parts in some cases) so if something is missing on the car you are considering, you may have to sell your soul to the devil to complete it, assuming that matters to you.

Cheers...Keith

 

Might be that concours Porsches are enough for a while and a Ferrari driver would be a fun project. There are some that are not rusted that will hit that $70K ball park. Probably very hard to get anything that does not require major mechanical work or rust repair at anything under that. Cars from the west coast are generally rust free and have been driven. If you forget the books and pouches and concentrate on the pure mechanics, you can get a nice car. My car was raced and driven daily. Came from the Bay area. Bought it in '86 at 51,000 miles and have spent about $25,000 over the last 21 years and additional 139,000 miles. Odometer just rolled over 190,000 miles. Pretty cheap driving. Do almost all the work myself taking care of the little stuff. Paint and anything that requires pulling the engine is farmed out. Parts for the 246 are readily available. Driving and fixing are a blast. Quite different feel than anything that came from Stuttgart. Try it, you'll like it.

John

 

Would this be the heavier pebble grain "left to right fold over" (not top fold over) tool pouch and the jack with the slender insert bar?
In 1992 Sheehan had these for sale when I didn't have them in my car

 

Yes, there are differences to the "L" series tool kit and jack which make them harder to locate. The synchro mentioned as well as the flap on the pouch opening in the opposite direction are all unique.

Of course, this stuff is fun to have but really for show so if showing your Dino is not in the cards, don't sweat it.

I understand PCA concours judging is brutal so perhaps you've had enough of that and just want to enjoy your dino as a driver. I think that is the healthiest way to go.

Cheers...Keith

 

My Dino cost me two girlfriends, one work promotion and receded my hairline by at least 0.5 inches. I never puked so you've got me beat.

Ferrari judging varies by class and by individual judge. My experience has been mostly positive but it's not for the faint of heart.

Check out Steve's car - it looks promising. If you want an expert 2nd opinion, take lots of pictures and share them with the group. We'll gladly point out the things which need attention. Of course, mechanical inspection is key and that's not something we can do on-line - yet.

Cheers...Keith