512 TR alternator problems | FerrariChat

512 TR alternator problems

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by J. Salmon, Mar 9, 2007.

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  1. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Aug 27, 2005
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    The idiot light is on. Battery reads 12.1 with the engine off, I am getting 12.5 with it running. Check leads? How can I tell if the belt is slipping? Haven't had any problems until now, it just popped up while driving. Any regular issues I should tick off? Not sure what I am doing really, but I'll have some more experienced help this weekend.

    Thanks
     
  2. WILLIAM H

    WILLIAM H Three Time F1 World Champ

    Nov 1, 2003
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    starter motors are a problem on TRs

    you may have an electric leak, check the switch behind where you put the ignition key, mine was on all the time & eventually killed the battery
     
  3. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    It's not the battery. Battery is showing good voltage and the car starts up. It's not charging to the right voltage.

    I am not even sure how to get at the alternator - looks like you have to take off the bonnet and the front cover to get good access?
     
  4. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
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    12.1V Battery voltage with the engine not running is fine however the battery voltage of 12.5V with the engine running is poor, ideally you need over 14.0V volts as a minimum. I suspect your regulator is faulty, not sure what make of alternator are on yours but they are a fairly straight forward replacement but usally you need to remove the alternator from the engine bay to do so.

    To test if you belts are slipping, using you mulitmeter across your battery posts check the voltage, then turn on all the lights and the air con, if the battery voltage drops the belt is slipping under load, if the voltage stays the same the belt tension is ok, but the easiest test is to check the belt deflection by hand, it should be firm to push and pull on, ideally you would only want about 10mm~15mm deflection either way push or pull on the belt otherwise your loading up the bearing and will encounter future problems ;)
     
  5. 348SStb

    348SStb F1 Rookie
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    Last time my battery light went on (in my '89 Mondial t with the Delco alternator), my alternator was about to take a crap on me; and I was left stranded on the road shortly thereafter.

    My battery was just fine as well, but my alternator was not giving the battery the proper charge to run the car.

    I see that your 512tr is a 1992 model. If it was produced before June, 1992, then from the factory it came with the Delco, and not the improved Nippondenso, alternator (unless the upgrade has already been done). Sorry if I am giving you information you already know...
     
  6. Dr_ferrari

    Dr_ferrari Formula 3
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    Double check the connections to the alternator. make sure you have 12v at the main power connection of the alternator (the one big wire) if all is ok, sounds like time for a new alternator.

    You can access the alternator by removing the front coverings in fornt of the altewrnator ( four 10mm bolts underneath one on each end and two staggered in the center).

    best regrads, Jim
     
  7. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #7 Ricambi America, Mar 10, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Thanks, I'll double check the main power and connections.

    Anybody know how hard it is to convert the older alternator to the newer model? It does not look like a direct part swap. What else do I need?
     
  9. 348SStb

    348SStb F1 Rookie
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    But are you sure you have the older alternator?
     
  10. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Yes, it matches based on engine numbers and just looking at the diagrams that Daniel has. The two units look very different, and mine is exactly like the diagram of the early unit (my car is 1991 build date).

    If it is possible to replace it with the updated unit, I would like to. Just not sure what that will require.
     
  11. Dr_ferrari

    Dr_ferrari Formula 3
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    Can be done, must change the mountiing bracket and will have to change the one electrical connector for the back of the alternator I believe the delco is a two wire and the Nippondenso is a three wire. If it is the same as the Mondial and 348, the third wire is a keyed power. Daniels pic shows the difference.

    Toughest part will be finding the connector.

    best regards, Jim
     
  12. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    OK, Auto Zone says it's NOT the alrenator (pulled it and had it tested). it is back in the car now with no changes: No charge. I have 12 V at both the line in and one of the two leads in the plug.

    What else could it be? I am stumped. (doesn't take much)
     
  13. cafebisque

    cafebisque Karting

    Aug 19, 2006
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    I had the same problem just come up in a '91 TR. I spoke to my tech and he said to pull the two connectors underneath the coolant tank and check to see if they were green. He said to clean them with contact cleaner and to see if the problem persists. Then to call him. I did as he said, and no more flashing warning light. It did the trick.

    Easy fix. Good luck.

    Alex
     
  14. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Auto zone blew it. It IS the alternator, which is being rebuilt. will update if that works.
     
  15. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Another parts store expert strikes again.
     
  16. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    Just got back from VIR, where I flogged my Audi allroad until the brakese gave out, then cooled and repeated until they through me out. Would much rather have tried the 512 out, but alas...

    Re-installed the now rebuilt alternator, and no change! Must be missing a wiring issue. I know I am getting 12 V to the big wire. There is a switched 12 V "tickle lead". Anyone know some areas where it might be disrupted?
     
  17. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Just a thought, Have you run the engine above idle to test? It might take a few rpms before the alternator "kicks in" and begins to charge. Otherwise it's the dreaded "something else" which could include (stay with me here!) the alternator is STILL bad.

    Check all those connections (corroded wiring that still looks okay) fuses, junction blocks, etc. The charging system is really pretty simple (but not everything is easy to see).
     
  18. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    I have run it above idle. The guy who did the rebuild does only alternators, and he is supposed to be good. I won't have a chance to look until this weekend.
     
  19. Jeff Pintler

    Jeff Pintler Formula Junior

    Jul 20, 2005
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    Last year someone had a bad harness that the dealer found after 4 or 5 new alternators. I have a schematic for a 91 tr (just learned they used motronic 2.7). Looks like there is a large cable to the starter which then goes to the battery through a connector (which could have some corrosion so that high current for starting will pass but low current for starting the charging might not. Also, there is about three (or four) connectors that pass voltage up to the chargeing lamp in the dash. The connector close to the alternator also has the wire to the starter solenoid so it is probabbly in the engine compartment. So just work your way forward. Usually the guys that rebuild stuff check it when done and these units (at least my 86) are gm/delco so pretty common guts (mounting tangs different). FWIW, my 348 battery connector between the battery and strarter had a white oxide on the mating surface that your car might also have. It kinda looks like the car is powered from the battery, then to the engine and the starting/charging is from the large battery cable to the starter. The schematic is 16x24 that I could copy and mail (PM me). Good luck.

    Jeff Pintler
    89 348tb, 86tr
     
  20. Dr_ferrari

    Dr_ferrari Formula 3
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    Just a hunch, look at the fusebox and unplug the connectors and inspect for burnt connectors.

    regards, Jim
     
  21. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    #21 J. Salmon, Mar 18, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    There is a burnt connector, see below. Anybody know what this went to?

    Now what? I guess I need a new connector, but is there a probelm somewhere else that caused this to burn up? or could it have been when the voltage regulator went out?

    Getting closer, I hope...
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  22. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Looks to me like you are getting WARM so to speak. Not sure what the connector is for. Keep looking, this might be just the beginning.
     
  23. Dr_ferrari

    Dr_ferrari Formula 3
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    I suggest to repair the connection. You probably can reuse the connector but you may have to replace the pins in the connector. Remove the pins and see if you can clean and tighten them up.

    If they cannot be repaired, you local dealer can lookup the connector and pin and order what you need.

    I see the number of pins but cannot see the wire colors. give me the wire colors and I will see if I can find out what it is for.

    best regards, jim
     
  24. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    The burned connector is for a brown wire. The plug contains the following four wires, from left to right with the wires away and the brown connection lock up:
    white, grey, green with red stripe, brown.

    I pulled the connector, sanded the contact points, re-crimped it, and plugged it back in. But alas, this did NOT fix the big problem. The battery light is still on, the alternator is still not charging. :(
     
  25. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
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    If someone has the wiring diagram, can you tell me what the voltage should be on the connections to the alternator?
     

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