Replace 328 Clutch

As far as I know the procedure should be basically the same - you'll need the special tool to remove the drop gears. If you do go ahead and do it yourself thread with pictures of the job would be really great to see

I.

 

I agree- it's the same proceedure. There might be a few small details that differ.

Also- don't remove the upper drop gear- that's not necessary for a clutch replacement. Also, use some loc-tite on the lower ring nut when you install it.

jwise

 

They come up on E-bay occasionally. Other than that maybe another Fchatter has one they might be prepapred to lend you.

 

http://www.baumtools.com/ferrari_catalog_2006.pdf

 

i made one to do my 308 last year. send me a message with your address and i'll mail it to you. the rag trick to lock the gears while you loosen or tighten thegear nut works great. jon s.

 

the main difference with the 328 is you'll need to move the oil cooler. I can't find the 308 thread at the moment, so don't know if it was written for a car that required that also.

Also, some people (me included) needed to remove a nut from a suspension arm and whack the bolt back out of the way to remove the bell housing. Don't need to remove the bolt completely, just flush with the arm.

I didn't change the rear main seal, and changed the pilot bearing just 'cause I had one handy. I used a cheapo harbor freight slide hammer thing to yank the bearing. I don't think they sell it any more...it has an attachment that expands inside the bearing hole so it grabs the entire inner race, rather than just a hook.

while the bell housing is off, you'll have easy access to a coolant pipe that is running near the firewall. Good time to change the rubber on that if needed, though that'll mean draining the coolant.

I'd remove the exhaust air injection checkvalves and check them for leaking. You should be able to blow through in one direction, and not the other. Can't hurt to hose them out with some solvent while you have them off. They are cheap gm parts if replacement is needed.

an impact wrench will make removing the ring nut almost pleasant (after you've taken care of the crimped-in part, which you can be more violent on since you are not reusing the nut).

some form of wobble/swivel socket and long extensions will let you remove most of the nuts and bolts from outside the wheel well.

if you have trouble getting the lower xfer gear off, there's a couple threaded holes in it you can use with a bolt-style pulley puller.

the split ring on the transmission input shaft (behind the bearing) does not need to come off. Manhandle the bell housing around...the shaft hole in the bh is big enough for the ring to go through.

hopefully you didn't get an early 308 pressure plate. If you reassemble and the clutch pedal effort is significantly harder than it used to be, you got the old pplate.

Not confirmed, but the TO bearing face (pplate side) should be able to spin independently from the inner and outer race. If the TO bearing outer race and face are one piece, that's an old 308 bearing. Can anyone else verify that?

upon reassembly, a segment of the large o-ring around the transmission shaft will probably pop out, but the silicone or hylomar you use on the bh will seal things ok. If that kinda thing would worry you, people seem to have the most success sticking that o-ring to the bh with silicone first (and being very careful when putting the bh back over the split ring) or don't look down the shaft before replacing the spacer and bearing

imho locktite on the ring nut seems a bit overkill since you crimp the ring nut collar into the grooves for a mechanical lock. The nut is usually hard enough to get off...

 

the part numbers on my GT parts invoice are:
134996 - clutch disc (car 76824 and after. Earlier cars used 120482). I assume all cars now use the later part.
121562 - pressure plate (borg and beck)
100849 - TO bearing
114947, 104214, 103775 - o-rings

can't find a picture of the bearing I got. It may not be oem.

Attached are pics of one way to pull the pilot bearing and rear main seal (from a friends 308, not my 328).

for the seal, you drill/punch a small hole in the center of the seal, thread in a coarse screw a little bit, grab screw with pliers and yank. If the screw tears out, make another hole and try again.

note that a little oil in the bell housing doesn't necessarily mean the seal is bad. Oil spilled when changing the filter can get into the bh. In this 308's case, though, the amount of oil and the seepage from the seal was obvious once the flywheel was off.
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If anyone needs it, I have a slightly used 328 pressure plate I'll sell for $100. It has less than 100 miles on it.

 

a trick i use for the pilot bearing is to get a wooden dowel with an OD close to the ID of the bearing, pack the bearing hole with grease and fit the dowel into the hole. a whack on the dowel will force the grease out by pushing the bearing out. lightly wrap a rag wound the end to keep the grease spray to a min.

 

Nice trick! Thanks

 

While you are in there, you might as well take the extra 1-2 hours and replace these items. You'll be second-guessing yourself "why didn't I just do it" after you've got the clutch together...

 

the "while your in there" can go on for quite a long time

since you're gonna replace the seal, you need something to install it with.
I went down to the hardware store with the seal and found a piece of pvc pipe coupling with an od larger than the outer edge of the seal, and an id big enough to go over the crankshaft snout. Since it's a coupling, it has a perfect end surface.

if they also have a pvc cap in the right size (you'd need a little piece pipe to connect it to the coupling) that'll make life easier. If not, put a piece of wood over the end and bang on that. The idea is to drive in the seal without cocking it

smg's method of removing the pilot bearing is interesting...if you go that route, let us know how it worked out.