Has anyone found a substitute for the intake sleeve # 124371 on the TR's?
Are you seeking this part? This is from an 87 TR..............I also need one at a lower price than the $280 I have been quoted.................. Image Unavailable, Please Login
This part is a real issue. The genuine price is outrageous and we all need them. I haven't see one TR without some level of minor cracking on this rubber. Does anyone have a clue where we could have a replacement made. Hand's up anyone interested in putting a couple of these on the garage shelf if they were a reasonable price. I need two to start the ball rolling.
Could we make our own out of silocone or similar? Just take a strip that is wide enough to accomodate the gap from the air scoop to the intake box, wrap it around and maybe "joint" it on the underside where it's not visible? I also don't care for the factory clamp for this part...I usually substitute a stainless worm style clamp in it's place. There must be a cheaper, and probably better solution to the factory "accordian" piece.
If the proper material is found.....I can give you a solution to seaming it back together! In the past year I have become obsessed with Radio Control (RC) Offroad Rockcrawling Vehicles......wish I had gotten involved with the little bastards years ago before the real LIFE SIZE ones and I'd have a couple more Ferraris or a Lambo sitting in the garage. Enough whining and now to the point........... One of the modifications that is quite common in the RC Rockcrawling hobby is to narrow the tires.......I won't explain the physics just the procedure. After removing material from the rubber tires....in order to reseal and attach the tire halves back together we use a rubber friendly CA glue available from hobby shops. It is about $5-$8 a bottle. It dries quickly, is tough as nails (very low gearing,lots of torque/folding tires/2-3 HP motors/6"-8" tall tires/water & air tight seals/driven over sharp rocks & very uneven terrain are easy for this glue to accomplish a great airtight seal in even this hostile enviroment! (pix below) In fact (and Jeff, aka carguy can attest to this condition) the TR I have came with the top back edge of both entry door seals around the windows with the rubber flat seal split at the 90 degree corner of the gasket...........10 minutes and a couple pinheads of this glue............and I saved over $1100 for replacements. So....somebody find the material...............WE GOT THE GLUE!!!!! Kerry See even how the tire is starting to fold, and this is nothing pictured below......and yes that is a 1/8th scale RC vehicle (the leaves in the rocks give it away or a measurement of scale).......not a full sized Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser....Coll, huh? If the rubber tires can take this I am sure the rubber sleeve to be fabricated on the intake-airbox of our pampered TR's..........will survive......may even procreate, and then we shall have a plethera of them to share to the F-Car needy!!!!!!!!!!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Whilst waiting for my red crackle paint to go off, I slipped off the rubber and placed it over a round form (bucket) to measure the open ID of the unit. The bucket at the point of the rubber lip measured 193mm in diameter. Looking at the rubber, it looks identicle to a pipe joining flex seal, like used at the back of a toilet or on some sewer lines. Now this pipe is generally 200mm but I'm yet to confirm if this is an ID or OD measurement. I'll look into some commercial plumbing outlets and see what's available. If the seals can be purchased in the correct profile, using the glue as described above gives the oportunity to resize them exactly to requirements. Can you post a pic of the glue, including details of manufacturer and composition. I'll try and source a similar product in Australia. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just did some research, bit thick this morning! Didn't realize that CA was simply a rubber friendly superglue, or Cyanacrylate adhesive. Is the liquid better or do you use the gel version for the rubber joining. The gel can tend to fill voids in surfaces that are not perfectly flat.
I use the liquid, but the gel in this instance would be better suited I think. The CA glue can be found at any hobby shop that sells RC vehicles or construction supplies for modeling. Just ask for CA to adhere rubber and I am sure they will have it in stock............By the way thanks for doing the "foot work" to try an find an alternative! I'm away from my F car on a very long business trip.......2-7 months..........so I am useless in this search. Even though if you can get me all the measurements ...diameter as well as legth I can rummage through a few sources along the way. Just had an idea...with the dimensions I wonder if McMasters might have something. Also I am in New York City for a couple of days. Down in the Canal Strret section of Manhattan a few years ago I found a shop that sold only hoses and tubing. I'll check.they had every imaginable size/shape/color/type of construction/material that I have ever seen. Kerry
The sleeve measures 75mm wide, which is as near as dammit to three inches. 193mm diameter is close to 7 and 5/8 inches. Good luck.
Robert, Is the 75mm dimension "extended",(______) or when clamped in position (-^^-)? Does that question make sense? Thanks, Kerry
Kerry, that 75mm measurement is static. As in - off the car and in my hands. It doesn't appear to make a lot of difference. There is no pull or stretch on the rubber even when mounted. The only time the concertina effect in the centre will actually be forced to extend or compress is when there is a lot of engine movement and then it's very minimal. Seems to measure 75 mm fitted or not fitted. It's quite stiff also, probably with age, so I can't pull it out until it is 'flat' to take a full measurement.
I picked up some materials (rubber, vinyl and neoprene 1/16" thick) on Canal Street in NYC..............Even got some that "appears" corragated/accordian visually. Bought 3 different types of CA and will do some testing of gluing each of the materials with each type of glue when I get to Toronto tomorrow with a day off to experiment in the hotel room. Hotel security will be knocking at the door checking to see who's sniffing glue in room 211.........LOL! I'll try an get some pix of the materials, as well as the different containers of glue and post them, if I can get a digital in hand. Kerry
Ok here are the "partial" results.......................... With the rubber material which is the thickness of a US dime (sorry, no camera or calipers here in the hotel)............I glued the edges together with a CA called FLEX-ZAP II.....Found it in an "artist supply" store.....Here is a link to the products description..... http://zap.supergluecorp.com/pt32.html I glued as I said the thin edges (1/32", figure about the thickness of an inner tube for a tire) together, like a butt joint, and then ran a bead of glue on the inside of the item. I CAN NOT pull the splice apart (50-60 lbs. of pulling force, at least)........the rubber material stretches but the seam does NOT seperate. So far so good.............I am going to subject it to high heat, such as in an engine bay by mounting it near the turbo on my coach and see how it reacts. Also gonna toss some diesel fuel/gas/oil/engine cleaner and submerge it in water overnite to see how it reacts. I'll post the results and pix when available......Kerry Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well hear are some pix (shot on the sidewalks of Denver,CO) of the 2 different materials I picked up to fabricate a new Air Box Sleeve. Also are pix of the 2 different materials glued together using the glue mentioned above, with the 4 pix showing both the inside and outside seams. I also put a US 25 cent coin in some photos to give an idea of the materials surface texture. Hope these pix help others..........I for one will be using the corragated style material for appearances. Kerry First the sheet materials (in rolls) examples.................... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And here are pix of the very strong, yet very flexible seams................(understand that the seams can be alot neater and the application of the glue much more precise.....but these are my results with a pair of shears and 3 beers in a Toronto hotel room, even though the inside "heavy" glue application is a bit"unsightly", it helped seal the seam and added strength........and would never be seen as that is hidden, but so would the outside of the seam when positioned at tthe bottom of the air box) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you want really cheap, why not use a tractor or truck tire tube? If its too flimsy, glue two sections together. who knows, might work?
I dont understand this......you gotta pay for the right stuff. Go do it right, or leave it alone. Better yet, just stretch a condom over it