348 noise from engine bay

It could be the your throwout bearing going south.

 

Hmmmmm?

I hope it's not what I'm thinking it is.

 

Just check the throw out bearing while your changing the tripple seals, and let's hope that's what it is. But DON'T drive the car until you do.

 

Nope.

Only happens when the clutch is engaged. When the clutch is disengaged you aren't turning the insides of the gear box.

Damn, this is sounding more and more like what we're not supposed to be talking about.

 

Beats me. I thought that Neutral disengaged the tranny gears from the differential, and that the clutch disengaged the engine from the tranny...but I haven't seen the inside of either so I'm not the one to ask.

 

For crying out loud. Will you go pull the pumpkin already. You are gonna have to yank it anyway for the triple seals, so may as well get on it.

 

When the reservoir is empty.

 

That would be a good idea. Have a look at the clutch too, it seem the oil got on it and was causing the clutch to slip a little.

I am glad to hear that the trow out bearing was a bit rough. I'm pretty much sure the noise will go away. Make sure you have a good look at the flywheel. You don't wanna do all that work, to then have the seal on the flywheel go bad. So if it looks like you should repack it then do it.

Keep up the good work.

 

You could check the flywheel....metal plates can become lose and make sound with the clutch released.

 

Jeremy, do you have the single-disc clutch or the dual-disc? I just went through replacing the clutch in my single-disc 348, and I was enormously disappointed in the set-up information in the Workshop Manual. I took quite a bit of time to read the text, study the illustrations, and make measurments, and my conclusion is that the Manual is a total waste of time.

I have also concluded that the AP clutch has some serious deficiencies in relation to the Valeo clutch, but I'll get into that at a later time.

You said you are "having new meat put on the clutch". Do you mean that you are relining your old disc instead of purchasing a new disc? That's what I had done. It cost me $97 to have my old disc relined with new material, and a light machining done on the pressure plate. The results seem good!

I hope your turkey is gone.

 

Pics?!

Also, what did you do to set your clutch?

 

Pics? I just checked, and I seem to have accidentally erased the pics I took of the newly relined disc. I still have comparison pics of my skimmed Valeo pressure plate (left) and my scored AP pressure plate (right).

What did I do to set my clutch? Well, since you asked.... The Shop Manual shows the Set Up Height (SUH) for the single-disc clutch in Figure 12, page D14, with a measurement of 47-51mm. But the diagram shows the disc and plate NOT mounted on the flywheel (although the SUH diagram for the dual-disc clutch shows that it IS bolted to the flywheel). If you do a static measurement as shown, you get way more than 47-51mm. But if you bolt the package onto the flywheel, you can't get a micrometer onto the surface at the point shown. The information for the flywheel height is also screwed, since they give a figure of 51mm, but they don't say from where to where.

So I made a jig out of a piece of scrap wood, and bolted the disc and plate onto my jig, then measured from the fingers on the pressure plate to the surface of my jig, and got a figure within the range of 47-51mm, so it looked OK. My old AP disc and plate were well outside the range when I checked them on the same jig.

Edit: By the way, I had my old Valeo disc relined at a local Brake & Clutch shop. I gave him the specification for the thickness of a new disc (7.7mm = 0.30"). He told me that lining material was available in two thicknesses (.125" and .140"), and it turned out that the .125" thickness worked perfectly.

This brings up the question of the "shims" that are supposedly present to adjust the SUH. There is no mention of such shims in the Manual, and I found no evidence of such shims in either my Valeo clutch or my AP clutch. Am I missing something? Where are these shims supposed to be?

There is no figure given for the step between the feet on the pressure plate and the friction surface of the pressure plate, so you don't know how much metal can be skimmed off the friction surface. It seems that you should remove the same amount from each, in order to maintain the original distance, and thus the clamping pressure, at least on a new disc. In my case, my brand-spankin' new AP clutch wore to the point that the disc was slipping and the pressure plate had grooves in it in about 7000 miles, even though the disc wasn't worn nearly to the rivits. I suspect that the AP clutch package measures outside the SUH specs when new.
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Ya think?

 

Friction Materials
Long Beach, CA