Mondial Qv 308Qv Cam seal replacement

Firstly please excuse probably the dirtiest engine ever pictured on this site,(thats my next job)

I'm getting my engine prepared for the Electromotive xdi I have ordered from Nick and I noticed that theres a couple of oil leaks, one from the front bank underneath the rotor (1st pic), and one that appears to be coming from an oil hose underneath the back distributor (2nd pic).

My question is how hard is it to change the cam seals, can I remove the three nuts on the end where the cap is fitted, or is it a case of taking the cam covers off and pushing one on the end and then replacing the cam cover, or is there a lot more to it.

Also it might sound a stupid question but if I remove the rotor post will it leak oil if left uncovered.

Any advice tips and help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have removed the three bolt distributor cap plate and I tried to remove the rotor cam end, I have remove the pin but it seems to be stuck fast, is there a certain way to remove it, I gently tapped it with a rubber hammer, obviously I don't wan't to wack it with a hammer due to the cam, any ideas?

There is a rubber seal on the distributor plate I removed, is this classed as the cam seal or is it inside the cam cover?
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With the roll pin out, I grabbed mine with smooth face vice grips and tapped it out with a small hammer.
I think you'll have to machine some aluminum plugs with o-ring to replace the rotor shafts (or cut them off)
Larry

 

hi pete i can do that for you on my lathe, a end cap or i can machine down the rotors, let me know

 

you need number 3, i have just replaced mine
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That would be great Martin, be nice for you to get some money from me now, see the link for how 308Nut did his

http://www.thebestemployee.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136269117&postcount=127

 

I will have to get something to try and get them off, obviously I am worried about damaging something else when doing it

 

I think Superformance do them for about £4 each, but going by the link to 308Nut's mod he has taken off that plate held on by three bolts, aobviously this holds that seal.

I do like the idea of taking off that 3 bolted plate and having a blanking plate that will fit over the whole lot, but preferably with the rotor pin off so it doesn't have to be too big

 

if you just send me the rotor (when you get it off) i can machine that down as a plug, then you would not need a new seal if you are going to put a end plate over the whole lot,

 

Would you be able to fabricate some sort of end plate, I could send the 3 bolt end part as a pattern (No1 in the diagram above)

 

yes (ali )

 

Yes ali, as light as possible, can you give me a price for all those, or I could trade some parts

 

would you be putting the seal plate back on (1 ) or not, are you putting a blank in the cam or machining yours down?i was thinking about a plate 3 bolts on to the cam cover and the head, or was you talking about a plate to bolt onto your seal plate ( 1 )?

 

lets get the job done first,

 

I was thinking about getting that rotor part cut down, or a blank (providing I can get them off ok), and then a plate that fits straight on where the 3 bolt distributor plate was removed, so it would fit straight onto what you see in this pic, I would also order a pair of gaskets from superformance at about £1.50 each
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are you blanking off both dizzy ends ?

 

thats fine get those rotors out and post the lot to me, i will turn them down to a plug

 

I know it sounds crude, but could I do it in situ with an angle grinder, obviously I would keep stopping so as not to put too much heat into the cam end

 

Yes, both are now off

 

they will come off, just use a small hammer to tap out the pins,and then some good flat or straight grips,and some force

 

I only had a go at the back one, the pin came out easy, it was just the rotor pin seemed very tight, but then I did do it by hand.

How much would it be for the plates, as you might also have a few others interested in them on here

 

iam sure we would have a deal with some parts, but if not ,we will sort that out after the plates are made,so dont worry,send me the rotors for trimming and the plate for sizes,also an new gasket,

 

You will need a 3/32” straight punch to remove the roll pin. The distributor rotor drive is an interference fit in the cams, sealed with an O-Ring inside. With the engine stone cold, apply heat using a heat gun (around 150 deg) to the cam portion only not the drive. Use Vise Grip pliers on the distributor rotor drive (you only have .125” to grab on to here) (pre-adjust the pliers before using the heat gun because you only have a few seconds to rotate the drive off the cam end before the heat equalizes and will not allow removal). Installation is in reverse except I would put the drive in the freezer prior to heating the cam up to shrink it another .0002”

 

hi pete are you sending parts ?

 

Hi Martin,
I will send them in about a week, I don't feel too good at the mo so I won't be going out there for a few days, I have got one loose, so the other shouldn't be a problem, can you give me a guide on price for the two plates.