Hawaii tips?

I'll give my thoughts on the Big Island. We've been going there at least twice a year for the last 15 years and we've bought and sold land and houses on the island so we're pretty familiar with where things are. The things I would recommend doing on the Big Island are:

1. Sunset and star gazing on Mauna Kea. You can easily get to the visitor center but you'll need a 4WD vehicle to get to the top. The first 80% of the drive from the visitor's center is dirt and rocks. The top 20% is nicely paved roads. Get up there before sunset and be prepared to stay until well after dark. The drive will take you along the Saddle Road (the road that spans between the west side and east side of the Island). The Saddle Road is narrow and winding so use caution and don't get crazy. Driving on it does void your rental car contract for most rental companies so go at your own peril (I'd do it!). It meanders along ranch land (the Parker Ranch is one of the largest cattle ranches in the U.S.), a military base in the middle of the island (stay on the road...there is live ordinance off the road), and finally across a large lava flow as you come to the turn off to head up the mountain (it is well marked). Plan about 2 hours from Waikoloa...you'll want to stop at the visitor center to get out and get used to the altitude. Bring food, water, and flashlights (cover the flashlight ends with red plastic so the light is red...do night shine white light around on the summit unless you want a bunch of angry astronomers trying to sacrifice you to Pele). If you bring a camera...bring a tripod. Try to go up there on a night with no moon...you won't believe your eyes. Coming down the mountain DO NOT ride your brakes...they will almost certainly fade and then you'll be in for a white knuckle ride the rest of the way. If you're up at the top and feel dizzy, nauseous, or get a headache...head back down immediately...you've probably got altitude sickness.

Here's a Google map link to where you'll be going:
http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&om=1&ll=19.294173,-155.122576&spn=0.038196,0.067635&z=15

2. Volcano National Park. Another trip to make where you arrive late in the day. You should plan for a long day...the drive one way is three or four hours. And, remember you have to drive back after a long time on the lava. You can get to the park either around the north end of the island or the southern route. This all depends on if you are in Kona or father up the coast in Waikoloa or Kohala. You'll want to get there about and hour or two before sunset. This will give you time to hike out across the lava field to active flows (if there are any). If you're lucky, there will be flows down the pali (the hillside) and also into the ocean. The hikes can be long and somewhat dangerous. Remember, mother nature is at work so there are usually no marked paths to the lava flows (they change daily). Sometimes you can get lucky and have a flow right at the end of Chain of Craters road, in which case they may mark a path with cones or orange flags. Bring lots of water and strong flashlights (it gets really dark on the lava). You can wear shorts but I'd recommend jeans and good shoes that you don't mind messing up. The lava can be extremely sharp and it will shred your shoes. Stay away from the bench area (they usually have it roped off)...this is a dangerous place that can easily collapse into the ocean. Your chances of survival if it lets go and you are standing on it are basically nil. Again, if you bring a camera, bring a tripod or something to steady the camera. The lava shows best in the dark...your camera will want to take longer exposures and it needs to be still or all you'll get are blurry images.

Here's a Google maps link to where you'll be going:
http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&om=1&ll=19.294173,-155.122576&spn=0.038196,0.067635&z=15

3. The Green Sand Beach at South Point. This is the most southern point in the United States. Just head south like you're going to the volcano and you'll come upon South Point about 2/3rds of the way to Volcano NP. You'll head down a road for a few miles and park the car. Don't pay any attention to the guys who say you have to pay to park...they're scamming you...the parking is free...just find a place. Once parked, start hiking east along the coast. The hike is at least an hour, one way, and maybe more. You'll eventually come to a fairly large bay along the coast that is bordered by some steep cliffs (there will probably be some locals who have driven their cars there so look for them). You'll need to scale down a pretty steep cliff wall to get to the beach but it is worth it. If you've never seen green sand before, it's pretty cool. (the green sand comes from a deposit of Olivene offshore that is being eroded by the ocean and swept up onto the beach).

Here's a Google maps link to where you'll be going:
http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&om=1&ll=18.978052,-155.621681&spn=0.306155,0.541077&z=12

4. Waipio Bay. This time you're going to head north on the 19. Stay on the 19 up the mountainside (Kohala) through Waimea (also known as Kamuela). A little ways past Waimea you'll come to hwy 240. Take it to the end of the road and then it's decision time. You can drive down the single lane that descends to the bay or you can walk it. The descent is extremely steep...driving it will give you a pretty high pucker factor especially if there are cars coming up too. Hiking it would be a heck of a work out. Hence, the decision to make. Once down at the bottom you will be in a forested area that runs right out to the ocean. There are waterfalls from the rock cliffs and there will probably be lots of locals there too. Just respect the area and the people and no one will pay you any attention. Enjoy the relaxing scenery because you'll either have another stressful drive back up or an intense cardio workout on the hike.

Here's a Google maps link to where you'll be going:
http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=20.064477,-155.475941&spn=0.152052,0.270538&z=13&om=1

5. Other things to do:
a. Dinner in Kona. Standard fare but something you should do.
b. Hawi. Getting there is a nice drive north up the coast (take the 19 north to the 270 north until you can't go any farther). Quaint town with a few shops and restaurants. You can also eat in Kawaihai (there's a good pizza restaurant there). On the way back stop at Lapakahi State Historical Park for sunset.
c. Ocean kayaking. This would be highly recommended if you were going between November and April...that is whale season. You'll see a few now, but most have left.
d. Dinner and shopping at the Kings Shops in Waikoloa. There are some good restaurants there, especially Roy's. Some higher-end shopping too.
e. Parasailing in Kona. If you're in to it.
f. Waimea. Another quaint town up the mountain (Kohala). Dress warm...the weather is more like San Francisco in the spring than Hawaii due to the elevation. The Parker Ranch Grill is really good...one of my favorites for atmosphere and food.
g. Hilo. Not much to do or see in Hilo. It's where many of the locals live as it is less expensive. Definitely don't fly in to Hilo...fly in to Kona.
h. Four Seasons Hualalai. If you want some of the best views and dining on the island, go have dinner at Pahu i`a. We'll be staying there for a couple of weeks in June and I plan on eating there just about every night!
i. Akaka Falls. A beautiful waterfall in a bamboo forest. Worth going to once.
j. Hapuna Beach. One of the nicest and biggest white sand beaches you'll see. Depending on the time of year and hour of the day it could be crammed with locals. Still worth going to.
k. There's lots of other historical places to see including Captain Cook Monument, Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Park, and more.

Well, hopefully this gives you a good start. I'll be interested to hear how it goes and what you end up doing.

Steve

 

what about places to avoid? seeing an episode of Dog the Bounty Hunter and all the ice made me think about Hawaii in a different light.

 

Stay out of Puna and you should be okay. Treat the 'aina and the people with respect and aloha and you will most likely get it returned.

 

I'd say snorkeling in Hanama Bay with a good helping of frozen peas is a must do if the place isn't too crowded. You'll be swarmed by more species of fish than you can count

 

You can drive a rental up there but if you grenade the motor you're responsible. I made it in a Mustang-temp gauge PEGGED after 2 rest stops.

I happened to see the disclaimer afterwards.

 

I took a trail to the top (and around the rim) of the Waipio valley that was one one the most amazing walks of my entire life. When I finally got there I was met by a very dramatic view of a giant waterfall. My friend told me it was a more than couple thousand feet tall!

 

Just got back from 3 weeks in Hawaii.

Since you are there a short time, take the helidopter trips on Kauai and Maui early in your visit there. Fabulous. You will see things that can't be seen any other way and it will give you a good orientation for the rest of the stay on each island.

Get the following books on Amazon.com or other book seller:
Kauaii Revealed
Maui Revealed

The really great places right on the ocean book up early. You may get lucky. If Hawaii has an "off season", this would be about it.

The write up on the Big Island in this thread is excellent. You will be challenged to this in a few days.

I will bet you will want to stay longer. I would like to spend at least two weeks on each island (except Oahu...Honolulu is just another big city like Miami to me. A day's drive around the island and a day at the Arizona Memorial are about it. Too many people.) We spent a week on the big Island and a week on Kauai and it wasn't enough. Four nights on Oahu was just right.

The people everywhere were fabulous to us, as always. I love the Hawaiian people.

Enjoy.
Aloha

 

Even though they are standard tourist things to do, I enjoyed:
- the river boat trip on Kauai,
- the Old Lahaina Luau on Maui, and
- the western coast of Maui.
.
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Wow, your descriptions above are just about what my wife and I did for our 5th wedding anniversary 2 years ago - almost to a "T"!

My best advice is to rent a Jeep. We got one, and it was perfect for doing everything described above. I took it up Saddle Road, from Kona to Hilo. Half of it is very nicely paved (see pic - would love to get a Ferrari up there on the paved section!), while the other half can get pretty nasty.

Also, with the Jeep, we drove right up to the Green sand beach, and also down that steep, hilly, one-lane to Waipio Bay. From the Green sand beach, we took the back roads to the Black sand beach, which is a known resting spot for turtles. We sort of got lost on the back roads - very rough road that goes around large, fenced-in land. You cannot go more than 5mph - it seemed to take forever to find a main road again. I knew if we kept heading north, we would hit a main road, which we did. We never had any problems with the Jeep.

We were there for 4 nights, and really had to keep busy in order to cover the whole island. It would have been nice to have a week.

All in all - the most beautiful place I have ever seen. I will definitely go back. I may even invest in a condo down there - would be a perfect place to retire to.

Pic 1: A view from Saddle Road
Pic 2: An evening view from Saddle Road
Pic 3: driving down to Waipio Bay
Pic 4: Green sand beach
Pic 5: Lava crossing the road
Pic 6: Saddle Road - recently paved section
Pic 7: Waipio Bay
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+1 This is a must do IMO. It will be one of the best swimming experiences of your life. And it's extremely easy.

 

I have one tip for you, TAKE ME! Have fun, Ive heard its an amazing place/

 

Our last trip to HA, I signed up for a flying lesson (no license or medical exam needed) at Kona International Airport. It was incredible. It's been a couple of years ago, but it cost $100. Boy was it worth it. Took one hour with 30 minutes of ground school (safety precautions, etc), then 30 minutes in the air. Really a memorable experience.

Also, on the Big Island, we went on a submarine ride - I think it was Atlantas -- we still have the pictures around her someplace. They took us down 100 feet and you could still see by sunlight. Wasn't that expensive and sure was beautiful.

Have to second Hanama Bay - the snorkeling was great.