Putting in my electromotive FINALLY!

Quick question, gang -- I got the XDI delivered from Nick last week and we were laying out the installation. It seems pretty straightforward, but one of the pieces of literature, I think from Nick, says to run a heavy gauge hot lead directly from the battery back to the coil packs, connecting through his fuse blocks. Well, there is already a very heavy battery lead running back from the battery to the starter. Can I simply piggy-back off the starter hot lead for the 12V to the coils? I know I'm picking up the old yellow wire to the old coils as my switched hot lead to the control unit, but will piggy-backing off the starter lead work for the new coils?

And where is a good place to mount the black box for the tach? I'm planning on mounting the XDI box in the wall in the rear trunk. Mount the tach box there as well?

thanks,
Steve

 

Out of curiosity, what does an XDI setup cost from Nick these days (out-the-door)? With the time difference between here and there, I never seem to be home during what I imagine are normal business hours for him.

Feel free to PM the details if you don't want to post publicly..

Thanks!

 

Fchatter Bertocchi installed the XDI in the 308 here and think he debated doing that, though felt it better to run the heavy gauge wire from the battery for best bet. Remember to fuse that wire within a foot or so of the batter (always have fuse close to power source source for safety).

This has been debated. While i felt mounting it in the truck wall between it and the engine was ok, some seems to feel there is too much heat. The Euro 308 here seems to not have that problem, perhaps US versions with cat pipes suffer more heat in the trunk. What i see is the situation is in gaining access to the unit to make adjustments and why i chose that position. Some feel it is best to mount the unit in the same location as the stock M.M. boxes were (as you will be removing them i assume). Same with speedo, mount it where the were.

 

Thanks Steve, but I don't have M.M. boxes. Mine is a carbed car, not injected, so no prior electronic units. The car is a virgin as far as electronics goes.

Interesting thought on the power cable and fusing it near the front. I guess a 20A fuse up front and then the two 10A fuses in the back near the coils.

 

Nick sells the kit (he's even on Ebay with it) for $1495. It includes the XDI, the coil packs, the timing wheel for the crank damper, the sensor unit and bracket, the black box for the tach, relays, fuses, wires, Taylor ignition wires and all the little bits and pieces needed. Nick pre-programs the unit and includes 308 specific instructions along with the Electromotive stuff. I priced the pieces out separately and IMHO his kit is selling at a fair price with everything included. Plus he is available for support and very willing to share information. I'll let you know how things go after the install, but based on what everyone else has reported, I'm hoping it will be well worth the time, effort and money.

 

Birdman,

The wire in the car here runs with the brake boost hose, though can see your point. The problem with wiriing to alt might be the fuse is then buried under the car and, added benefit for me, i have the Electromotive wired in the E cut off key on my front hood.

Ahh a carbed car, you'll LOVE the new system We have the 20A up front and the two 10A at the rear, all easily accessible. i'd take pics but it is around 0F outside right now and the enclosed car trailer is buried in about 3 feet of snow.

 

Same here. I got Wade to make me the side bracket like Steve has on his car. Wade also made up the end caps for me. This is going to be a class installation.

Steve, I was considering picking up the hot lead from the starter, not the alternator. The starter wire runs straight from the battery and is big. Seemed like a reasonable alternative, especially since the start wire is otherwise used all of about a second or two each time the car is started and run. But if there is a good reason not to use that as the hot lead for the coils, I'd be interested in hearing about it.

I like your idea of having the Electromotive wired through the emergency key on the front hood. But I'm not installing one of those.

 

Quick question, and I'm sure this has been asked and answered, but here goes anyway -- When installing the crank sensor bracket to the timing belt cover, is it best to drill and tap the holes and use a machine screw, or just through bolt it with a lock washer and nut? And did you use Locktite on the threads, either way, to assure that it doesn't come loose? I'm inclined to drill and tap, and then Locktite the screws. I don't want any "surprises" while driving.

thanks,
Steve

 

Thanks, Bird. I like the idea of making them into "studs" rather than running them in from the outside. And I did miss your post #180. Makes perfect sense, which is what we were thinking with using the line to the starter. Might see if I can wire in an in-line 20A fuse near the starter, to avoid the possible dead short, but I do like the idea of double sheathing the line. I'm starting to put things together now, getting the engine ready to go back in, so hopefully, it won't be too long.

 

I went in to see my mechanic for a quick fix to a turn-signal issue (took apart the assembly behind the steering wheel and basically cleaned all the contacts), and he again told me I really ought to "play" with the advance and take advantage of the XDI-2. Really, I'd prefer to let him do it, but this afternoon I decided to go ahead and tweak it a bit myself. It's just a matter of hooking up my laptop to the USB-to-Serial cable we've left connected to the XDI-2 "brain" and firing up the software.

You don't have to be a mechanical expert (and I'm definitely NOT one) to adjust the advance curve on the unit. I left the low end (below 2200 rpm) alone, and started with adding 1 to 3 degrees across the increments in the software's spreadsheet. I then took it for a test drive to make sure there was no knocking/detonation. I noticed that even that mild increase was something you could feel. So I came back and changed it to increase up to 5 degrees more than stock at the high end. Took it for a test drive, still no detonation, but a LOT more pep than stock.

I see why the folks with newer cars like to "powerchip" their engines, which I guess is what I'm doing the equivalent of. I wouldn't give up my 308 for a more modern Ferrari... it's the car I always wanted... but I didn't think I could enjoy it more than I already have while keeping it naturally aspirated. I was wrong -- this is REALLY a great improvement. I need to swap keys with Branko again, but I think this USA version has become a lot closer to having the extra "oomph" of a Euro QV.

Of course, if you were starting with a Euro and did this to it... but I don't want to think about that!

Anyway, for future reference, below are the two modified curves, and the .bin files for them. I don't know how much I can push the advance without detonation, but I'll probably try it a bit more.
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Pull the plugs and make sure they look OK. I tried my timing up around there but backed it down. Without a ping sensor, I did not feel it was worth the risk. Next step is to put it on a dyno and try different settings to find out what really gives you the most power. One more thing, verify the timing with a timing light!

 

For me, this is just an intermediate step before supercharging... no real reason to dyno it until after the boost is installed!

 

The 2v cars seem to like more advance the the QVs. Once you install the blower you will want to back off on the advance. Check with Mark E. I think he is running 34 full advance. A knock sensor might be good insurance.

 

I've asked this question before, without an answer: *where* would be the optimal location to place/install the knock sensor?

 

I think we need another trip to the dyno shop now

 

Mike,

I was looking at my engine and I think the best and easiest place to bold on a knock sensor is on the side of the engine block using one of the 3 engine stand mount bolt holes. The idea is to get the knock sensor close to a main bearing structural support.

 

The qv combustion chamber is far more efficient at flame front propogation than the 2v motor, and requires less advance. The qv head in my exsperience at WOT likes about 34 or so degrees while the 2 valve can tolerate quite a bit more.

 

It would be interesting... it only takes a minute or less to reprogram the unit from a different configuration file (with a different advance curve).

 

By the way, they moved... they're now just a half-block down from where my mechanic's shop is located! Now THAT'S convenient!

 

I am currently mocking up the kit so I can install it quicker.

Just a quick couple of questions for Birdman & Co.

1, When you put the Dfu leads into the Xdi plug do you disassemble the plug with the two black clips arrowed or do you just simply push them in through the small rubber seals on the back, I have used smaller versions of these connectors in various applications but they have come in pieces rather than pre-sealed.

2, In the relay bag there is a small card saying about applying Napthentic based grease on the connectors. I have never put any form of grease on a relay before, is this because of the engine bay heat, as I am going to fit these on the inside of the firewall in the car where the back seats were.
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